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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Apr 20, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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Hey Chad,
I'll be out there tomorrow. I think have a partner but I think all told could be a crew of several people there so finding someone to hold a rope would probably be pretty easy. My plan is to be at the parking by 9 to make use of the shade for as long as possible.
a
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Apr 20, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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Steve,
I'll be interested in seeing what the rippled wall across goes at. The shallow dihedral on the left will be a great route i'm betting but a full day of scrubbing to get at it
Aidan
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 24, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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Very cool Dingus.
Here's one of mine.
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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Apr 25, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Gave the Chariots route second pitch a go.
The upper arete is great but very hard to read onsight. I think I'll have it next time but there is a lot of climbing in those 2 pitches to get up there. Pretty impressive to be on a cool arete 200 feet up a dead vertical wall in our little quarry.
I have to think 12a to onsight pitch 2. Plenty of stuff breaking off but non of it big or essential. Wear helmets especially the belayer
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Apr 27, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
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I finished rebolting the rest of the Memorial Wall today and added mussy hook anchors. All routes on the wall have been restored and are open for business!
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/memorial-wall/105734237
Updated topo. All anchors with Mussys except for Sneaky / Short Term. I ran out but will get them next time up:
Thanks to Brian P. for rebolting KAA!
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 27, 2013 - 05:06pm PT
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I added Mussy's to a few routes on scale wall. I also have more on order and will continue to add to routes that need them.
BTW, rapped down the giant slab and started cleaning yesterday. Wow! Gonna be a classic.
Steve Montesanto
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Apr 27, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
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Nice Steve! I had my eye on that slab for a long time but given its visual prominence from the road left it alone. It was on the "To Do" list but with this knee bullshit I figured someone else was going to snatch it! Oh well, plenty of other good looking lines to be had!
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Apr 27, 2013 - 09:21pm PT
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Other Steve, not Eurobrief, who did the FA of Kirk Aren's Arete with me on the Memorial Wall, what is your last name so I can have it added to the FAist list in the topo and on MP? Is it you theFet? Sorry getting old and memory is a bit hazy about "Steve's" last name, lol!
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 27, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
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I'm up for recruiting help on that slab. whoever's up to put in some hours hanging from a rope I could sure use it. Eventually there's 2-3 routes that could go up that thing and my time is limited to Fridays only. Most of the 2nd pitch upper slab is cleaned for the main center route. It's the first pitch vertical part that's going to take another few days to clean up. Anyone, anyone, Beuller, Beuller?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 28, 2013 - 03:06am PT
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Yes Aaron it was me. Steve Fettke
Steve,
I'll email you through this site if I can make it up to the quarry on a Friday. I've got a bolts, hangers, hammer drill, etc. But not much time!
-The Other Steve
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 28, 2013 - 10:00am PT
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Fet,
Got plenty of gear already. Can you come out on the weekend and put some hours in alone?
SM
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 28, 2013 - 01:22pm PT
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My weekends are booked pretty much solid through the summer unfortunately.
I'm going to try to squeeze a day or two in before it gets too hot if possible. Fridays are probably my best bet.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 28, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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BTW, wall goes in the shade in the afternoon.
SM
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Apr 29, 2013 - 01:03am PT
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The rock on that slab doesn't look as chossy as most other areas in the canyon. I was going to have a stab at leading it ground up a month or so ago but it was still too wet. It doesn't look any dirtier than some of the other stuff I've climbed, is it really that bad?
I'd love to and be totally willing to help you out with it (weekends only) but if the rock is permissive with natural stances, I'd sure like a go at it before it gets sport bolted.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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Apr 29, 2013 - 10:50am PT
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Salamizer,
Yes, second pitch up the slab is clean. I Just had to clean some moss. It's the first pitch getting to the slab that requires substantial cleaning with lots of loose rock. Going ground up would be cool but I took the easy way out. There's a fixed line to the top in place now and the first pitch is approx 25% cleaned already. If you're up to contributing to the rap bolting effort go for it. Email for more details and coordination. I'm there most Fridays.
SM
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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I assume you mean the rippled wall facing across at the twin towers?. are you cleaning the first and shallower of the right faceing corners on the left side of the wall. Going to be an easy grade I suspect and all could go on gear? to bolt or not. If you do the central slabs on that face, how runout sibce it;s easy climbing I suspect.
What is the easiest way to get to the anchor? is ther a rope hanging?
aidan
i'm up for a little cleaning project
aidan 417 1050
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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I just wanna climb that upper slab bolting on lead. I don't care if it gets retroed after for the sport feel. I wanna approach from the base on the left under the right facing corner system and work my way over to the slab and climb it's natural passage.
There's plenty of room for top down expansion. What's wrong with a little variety in the name of a great adventure?
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I'll throw in my $0.02. Sounds like Steve has started work on the line. IMO it sets the claim as his on how he wants to do it.
Two other points:
1) Gear in the Quarry is a bad idea. Look at the many rock scars on existing routes and even fresh scars on walls without routes. The rock is highly fractured and sometimes it is hard to detect just how much. Given this is a sport area with a tradition of access issues due to injuries / fatalities, let's leave the gear at home. The amount of cleaning that the corner(s) (there are actually two corner systems) is going to require will be extreme.
2) Ground Up Style has already been done in the canyon several times. I bolted several routes from the ground up: Destructomatic, Uncomfortably Dumb, Black Rhino (2 pitches), Kilimanjaro and Community Chest to name a few. Chad, I would say just pick another line and give it a go. There should be room on that slab for multiple lines, but please touch base with Steve to make sure the intended lines don't criss-cross. Plenty of examples where this type of routes occurrence causes major strife in the climbing community. I believe several of them have been discussed at length on this site.
It is totally cool to see new routes going up! Let's keep it all harmonious! Plenty of room for everyone to get new lines going.
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euro-brief-guy
Boulder climber
Auburn, ca
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The route I'm working on will hopefully be the combination of being a natural line and reletively easy to clean (I'd like finish this thing before it gets too hot). Sure the right facing corner to the top seems the most logical but Jesus that thing is going to take many many days to clean. If you want it go get it...and in any style you want. It goes all the way to the top. My route is going up near the center of the face both on the first and second pitch. Top pitch is nearly cleaned going up the center of the rippled slab and the bottom vertical pitch is about 25% cleaned from the bottom going up slightly left of center. Left to do in the short term is determine where the rest of the first pitch goes, clean it and put in some belay anchors somewhere where the slab pitch starts. Initial guess is around 10+ for the first pitch and 10- for the second. Mike C has agreed to help me and will be there this Friday afternoon. Any other help is welcome. Or if you are eyeing another line on the formation feel free to use my 70m fixed line to scope out another route put your own fixed line in. Top to bottom is about 65m. Top anchor share the 5 glue ins the slackliners put in. Btw, it's kind of tricky to get to the top from around the back.....let me know if you want beta. Right now the bottom of wall goes into shade around 1:00. The entire wall goes into shade around 5:00. There may be a time as we approach the solstice when the entire wall never goes into the shade.....Aaron?
I agree with Aaron. I choose to keep with the nature of the climbing in the quarry with regards to putting up routes. It' largely a sport climbing area and the virgin rock is very loose....call me a wuss for rap bolting, but that's just me.
Call or email for more info.
Steve Montesanto
650 996-5902
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Tripod? Swellguy? Halfwit? Smegma?
Trad climber
Wanker Stately Mansion, Placerville
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is your fixed line still there if I wanted to get up and fix my own? If not, what is the beta on getting to the top.
Aidan
530 417 1050
Re Chariots on Fire:
What length are the anchor bolts? I not into the bolting the chain direct to the wall without a hanger. If the bolts are 2 3/8 then there is probably only a 1 1/2 inch in the rock!
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