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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 14, 2006 - 01:35pm PT
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Actually MC your fears were warented and and you did break your knee as a result of that fall. So yes you do need to learn how to fall correctly but you should keep the falls small. You shoud practice this on a fat bolt over a smooth and steep wall. Little falls are fine. You don't need to take the risk of 25 footers just for practice. see the three possible outcomes of a fall. you experienced #2. The gear holds fine but you hit something and get hurt. The best way to practice falling INMOP is to get on a steep sport rt that is a bit too hard for you. The falls will come naturaly, first little baby falls as you downclimb to the last bolt and jump at the last min. Then slightly bigger falls as you get braver and then holy smokes we made it to the next bolt allready:) You will have the bennifit of a workout at the same time and maby even the reward of a send at the end of the day. It is crucial to keep in mind though that just because you have gotten comfortable falling now dose not mean that you can blissfully pitch off any time you please without getting hurt. PS be extra carefull NOT to grab the draw as you fall. that is a bad way to seperate your shoulder!!! and also a bad way to yank out marginal pro!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 14, 2006 - 01:45pm PT
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Arno. i guess what i am trying to say with my limited writeing skills is that I Although I agree with you I also dissagree with you. It is pretty safe to say that the 5.14 climber can pitch off of Wiamaia all day long and hit nothing but air while a slip for the 5.8 climber on the fickle finger of fate would likly be catostrophic if not fatal:) PS. yes climbing is not safe but it is a heck of a lot safer when you don't fall:)
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trapeze artemis
climber
Surf City
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Jun 14, 2006 - 01:48pm PT
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ShortTimer wrote:
"For some people the idea of being a climber (outdoors, adventure, trust in friends, being outside the herd) is more important than the actual climbing. For some the movement over stone and the challenge that movement provides is what's important and all the rest just comes along with being a climber. You need to decide if you want to be a climber or just like the idea of being one. There is a huge difference. Neither is better than the other, it is just what you are."
Good point Jan, a large part of my attraction to climbing is trying to move with grace and power. Perhaps that is why amongst my group of climbing partners I am one of the few who doesn't specialize in the style of climbing that I do.
Trad, Sport, Bouldering, I do them all and although I prefer to Trad climb a bit more, Sport and Bouldering appeal to me strongly as well because for me climbing is climbing.
You're right about the lovely benefits (outdoors, adventure, trust in friends, being outside the herd) but I think that for some people those benefits are sufficient in and of themselves to be a climber.
Kristin, I think you need to dig down deep and discover what you want from climbing.
Is the hard scary stuff even fun for you? Although it is for me that doesn't mean it is for you.
Do you really want to lead? If not does it matter to you if you TR/follow or not?
If you gave up climbing would you really miss it?
As far as falling goes you need to learn how to relax your body a lot more.
You fall very stiffly and instead of using your legs to cushion you tend to collapse on point of impact.
That is how you cracked your knee into the wall.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 02:08pm PT
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Yeah, I know about the falling problem. I remember you saying I needed to get better at it that day. Hah. Haven't fallen since. :)
 Is the hard scary stuff even fun for you? Although it is for me that doesn't mean it is for you.
No. Not the scary stuff. That day at the Needles just belaying you and thinking about what happened if you feel was NOT fun. I don't have any ambitions of climbing harder than 5.10 (trad). But I do want to get back to that and feel solid.
>Do you really want to lead? If not does it matter to you if you >TR/follow or not?
Yes, I do, and it does matter. I love leading. It's a self-sufficient intelligence exercise for me. If I didn't like leading, I wouldn't have posted this thread. I have no interest in merely following, and climbing with the people I do, it would be easy to do that. I am just really frustrated that I know I'm going to have to go back to square one and build up to get over the past two years' stagnation of only occasional leads.
>If you gave up climbing would you really miss it?
Yes, I would. When I tore the rotator cuff, I was in the middle of "climb as much as possible" mind set, and when I stayed home more I made great friends and found I could have a swell time on the weekends at parties and BBQs and going to the movies. Since I'm constantly injured, I've tended to favor that and not really pushed to climb. Plus, I'm poorer at the moment than I've ever been, so I don't get to do as much as I'd like.
I'm sitting here on a beautiful day with a bunch to do and wishing i had a partner to go outside with RIGHT now, but everyone is working. I like climbing. I just don't like the funny panic thing I've gotten the last couple years on and off. It's fear of experiencing that funny panic thing that kills the passion. I KNOW I can lead 5.10 right now. I know this. I have that skillset.
I think I need Arno and someone who's willing to go do moderate cragging. :) Looks like I'll be dusting off the RWW tonight.
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
boulder, co
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Jun 14, 2006 - 02:19pm PT
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Mac wrote: I KNOW I can lead 5.10 right now. I know this. I have that skillset.
Why don't go out and lead as many 5.7/5.8 as you can. Stop putting so much on numbers.
If you know you can lead 5.10...you would be doing it. Maybe your not a 5.10 climber now. Go do easier routes, have fun and get some mileage in.
In my opinion a 5.10 climber is someone who can lead the Scenic Cruise/ the DNB and any other long classic 5.10.
Leading a few or even 50 5.10 doesn't make you a solid 5.10 climber...leading a thousand does.
Later, Bob
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jun 14, 2006 - 02:38pm PT
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Bingo!!
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 03:19pm PT
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Bob, my point exactly. I believe I have the skills to climb 5.10 anything. I just . . . can't/won't. But I want to get there.
Mileage. Good, good. Agree.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:26pm PT
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"I believe I have the skills to climb 5.10 anything."
To her royal Mackness,
I formally invite you to Yosemite so we can put said skills to test. I'm in dire need of a rope-gun and you need to tie into the sharp end. It'll be a mutually beneficial relationship.
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Bilbo
Trad climber
Truckee
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Jun 14, 2006 - 03:37pm PT
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Whenever I feel I'm loosing my lead game, I go to the Valley!
1)Royal Arches 2)NutCracker 3) East Butt Middle Cath
Do them all!
Your confidence should return. Good Luck
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trapeze artemis
climber
Surf City
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:03pm PT
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" No. Not the scary stuff. That day at the Needles just belaying you and thinking about what happened if you fell was NOT fun. I don't have any ambitions of climbing harder than 5.10 (trad). But I do want to get back to that and feel solid. "
Kristin,
I'm glad you're not wired the way I am, I don't have a choice about getting on the hard scary stuff. Someday I'll pay the price for it too most likely. These days I can usually keep that part of me under control but sooner or later the pressure builds and I'm off to free solo something easy that scares the pants off me. And yes I have a lot of demons and a psychologist would have a heyday with me.
"Leading a few or even 50 5.10 doesn't make you a solid 5.10 climber...leading a thousand does"
Bob,
I tell people I am a solid 5.7 climber.
That's right I can onsite nearly any 5.7 in any area. And I'm proud of it......so there neener neener.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 04:17pm PT
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Heck, man. The whole knee break was over a 5.7 climb.
I think I climb like, 5.4 :)
James, not yet, baby. In your style: I lick the stamp, but I can't mail the package.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:34pm PT
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HRH Mackness...too funny!
Hey, get psyched like the person below with the warrior eyes!
Your too damn much fun to climb with... So, get some!
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Jun 14, 2006 - 04:43pm PT
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Less talk.
More Rock.
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maculated
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2006 - 04:44pm PT
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P Crack! What a terrible photo. I totally forgot you'd taken anything. :)
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 14, 2006 - 05:12pm PT
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This might be a tad better...
Fun!
-Brian in SLC
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Jun 14, 2006 - 05:18pm PT
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I can take you up the Larks on Taqhuitz. Fun treadmill 5.4.
Classic. Pro all over the place.
Brain in SLC climbed at Stoney with me.
I am not dangerous or crazy.
Juan
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MikeL
climber
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Jun 14, 2006 - 05:40pm PT
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You come into the world with only two fears: the fear of loud noises, and the fear of falling. The rest you learn.
MikeL
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 14, 2006 - 06:17pm PT
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Juan sez: I am not dangerous or crazy.
Yep. I can vouch for at least part of one of those. Ha ha.
Hey, Jeff, shoot me an email sometime. Always lookin' for partnerage in the L.A. area. I sent the J. Paul Pebble (yeah, proud!) a few weeks ago. Whilst suffering from poison oak from Malibu Creek. Eee gads!
I'll be in the O.C. tomorrow night...I'll have to pull out my hunk guide...but I usually hit the rockreation. Maybe Murf will gimme a belay...(although I'm more interesting in adult beverages post work somewheres. NBBC?).
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Jun 14, 2006 - 07:49pm PT
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Mac-
Air mail is rad though. Are you wearing a modest mouse shirt in that picture? Damn, you are one deck tassle. No wonder the Cronkites are up on your steeze.
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UberBabs1
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 14, 2006 - 08:02pm PT
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Mac: Here are some words of wisdom from Vince Lombardi:
"The greatest accomplishment is not in never falling, but in rising again after you fall."
We look forward to seeing you this summer on whatever end, whether tied-in or tied-on.
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