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grover
climber
Northern Mexico
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Feb 12, 2012 - 11:51pm PT
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Malemute I'm missing 7 from your spread.
edit: head hanging in shame
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:22am PT
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Riley's so used to seeing ECNALUBMA at work he takes his pics bass ackwards.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:36am PT
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If its just one mountain, then Robson's the one. Either the Cain, North Face or Fuhrer Ridge for the full experience.
Having said that the Becky-Chouinard if you are more rock-centric.
But for the full stomach churning, death or glory, once in a lifetime experience its got to be one of those giant north face routes. The Lowe route on Temple was mine, and it fully lived up to expectations.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 13, 2012 - 12:56am PT
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Malemute
You need to invest in Selkirks North and Selkirks South.
West Kootenay Rock is a fairly recent, but already way out-of-date guide to the areas around Castlegar and Slocan. It includes Waterline aka 'The Line' [terrific] but not the newer routes at Lower Arrow Lake aka 'The Lake', also excellent. Bonus coverage is the south ridge of Gimli, referenced earlier, and the 5 or so more difficult routes on the SW face.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 13, 2012 - 02:01am PT
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With respect to your suggestion, i think the more recent integral done by messers Haley et al is the true Wad traverse. A classic horseshoe around the head of the tied!
gf
Yes, but you did the traverse some 20 years earlier than they did! I think what you guys did remains the finest achievement to date in the Coast Mountains. Yes, there's harder stuff, lots of it, but what you did (and Colin etc. extended) is one for the next "50 classic climbs of NA." Totally admirable in conception and style.
Glenn
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Feb 13, 2012 - 02:41am PT
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thru the windshield of a plane that why this is a crap photo
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 13, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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Malemute
All of the personal names in the Nobility Group, such as Sir William, Sir Andrew etc were cancelled by the geographic naming people, when they finally twigged to the fact that they were really named after Bill Putnam and his climbing partners. A good joke while it lasted, which was a long time. Fairy Meadows on the other hand was DEFINITELY NOT named for the same reason.
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BackHacker
Social climber
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Feb 13, 2012 - 01:00pm PT
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Columbia Icefields. Spectacular and accessible, with plenty of moderate stuff.
Some of the classic routes have changed markedly over the last decades, due to global warming (e.g. Andromeda Skyladder), but there's plenty of ice left on Athabaska, where the North Face and Silverhorn Arête beckon.
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Kevin Doc Klein
Trad climber
Asheville, NC
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Feb 13, 2012 - 02:49pm PT
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Gimli in Valhalla would be a classic for sure. 8-10 pitches up a beautiful moderate arete (5.9) on one of the most beautiful lines I have climbed in Canada
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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Feb 13, 2012 - 04:27pm PT
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If someone has one trip and one destination, I would tend to recommend high probability, easily accessible, super classics, so I agree with those who mentioned:
For rock: NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire
For snow/ice: N face of Athabasca.
Both are beautiful routes with mindblowing views of the back.
For Baffin and other NW Territory routes, the weather is always very iffy; you risk never even a good shot at climbing your destination.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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bmacd, the plane windshield is not always an impediment, that's how John Scurlock shoots his amazing photos. Here's Slesse:
Funny, no one has mentioned the North Face (NW face maybe?) of Hungabee. There was a time I thought it was appealing, but I've revised my opinion. Here's a picture of typical August conditions...
Munge, how much time do you have for this adventure? Are you stopping in Washington on the way up?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Feb 13, 2012 - 05:10pm PT
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+1 for Sir Donald.
-1 for the Bugs.
The Bugs are cool, but it really is the Disneyland of the Canadian Rockies. Not even the same rock. Too crowded. Not really representative at all of the surrounding peaks. Not sure you can really even claim to have climbed in the Canadian Rockies by going there.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 05:16pm PT
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OffWhite, I'm pretty sure Scurlock shoots out the side otherwise he'd be
taking shots of his prop - I don't think he's driving a jet-powered Van's RV.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 13, 2012 - 06:24pm PT
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The Bugs are cool, but it really is the Disneyland of the Canadian Rockies. Not even the same rock. Too crowded. Not really representative at all of the surrounding peaks. Not sure you can really even claim to have climbed in the Canadian Rockies by going there.
No, if you go to the Bugs, you definitely haven't climbed in the Rockies. The Bugs aren't in the Rockies. They are in the Purcells; completely different range. Sort of like Cascades and Olympics, or Sierras and White Range.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Feb 13, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
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JLP
The Bugaboos are NOT in the Rockies. They are in the Purcells. Totally different mountain range. That's why they have such good rock.
Cheers, H.
EDIT: Nails beat me to it by a minute! Almost word for word too. Great minds........
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Feb 13, 2012 - 07:56pm PT
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Find the Columbia Trench on a map(the Columbia river starts here)
the towns of Radium and Golden are in the trench. The Rockies lie on the east side of the trench and have totally different geology.
You have guessed from all the replies that there is a ton of good stuff to do in Alberta and BC. The hardest part is deciding what style of climbs and approaches you are looking for.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
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Offwhite, not sure yet. In the Wild Hair stage right now. It just seems such a shame to not at least have the experience. Come back with a tale of woe-begotten weather dashing high hopes to total dogmeat. LOL
Bugs seems really smart, but man that Gimli thing is wicked cool.
blue sky pics are eviL!!!!!
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Bill
climber
San Francisco
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Feb 13, 2012 - 08:42pm PT
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Bugs, Choinard-Beckey. But do run up Sir Donald if you get the chance.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Feb 13, 2012 - 08:44pm PT
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I was hoping you'd say: "gee, I'm going to have to make more than one trip"
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
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The Bugaboos are NOT in the Rockies. They are in the Purcells. Totally different mountain range. That's why they have such good rock.
Cheers, H.
EDIT: Nails beat me to it by a minute! Almost word for word too. Great minds........
Geez, it's really uncanny how similar our responses are! And within minutes of each other, too.
G
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