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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:18am PT
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K-Man
I guess I messed up with the description of how I bolted. I aided to the 3rd bolt. While aiding I did free moves and realized it would go. Once I got up to the bolt I lowered off then proceeded to try and free climb it on lead. The first day I gave up and left. Came back with full rack and still not a single piece of gear that would take body weight. So I put in the bolt then freed the line. Was Crack Climb, is now Better Without Bushes.
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aldude
climber
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:20am PT
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Pinnacles Choss - what can I say - an acquired taste! Funny that you brought up Swanson's Crack ( not my name for it ) since the rock on said second pitch was some of most pathetic I had ever laid eyes on. I climbed up thirty feet to a mossy detached globe that I wouldn't even tie off and contemplated drilling - the moss curtain above dampened my enthusiasm,literally, and I bailed. That was 25 years ago and I've never returned so I guess you could presume it abandoned. BUT YOU NEVER KNOW???
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:36am PT
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"BUT YOU NEVER KNOW???"
Dam near fell out of my chair laughing. Yep a few routes have lain dormant for years, (20), before coming back to life. Sometimes by the original fa team.
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short-rope penis-head
Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:52am PT
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Hah! I love you guys! This thread is totally out of control!
Those bolted "boulder problems" on the westside were established by some dudes from monterey, I wont name names. I think one of them is called rumpelstiltzken or lehprachaun or some sh#t I don't know how to spell.
Does anyone remember the dude(s) who charged the Citadel with powerdrills, scrubed lichen, hacked a trail, and almost got the pinn's shut down to climbing in the 80's ?(this was before I was born I think, i've just heard the stories). Crazy shit!
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short-rope penis-head
Trad climber
nor cal biiiaaaatch
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:55am PT
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Yay! No one retro bolted the shaft before I did it a couple times, or was born! That makes me feel more like a man. hah.
Kevin
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Nov 11, 2005 - 02:58am PT
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I think they were banned from life and forced to wear pink lycra and do sport climbs in Hell while it froze over.
They kinda screwed up. Bummer (maybe that should read Dummer) for them cuz their routes up there are actually fairly decent. both routes are a minimun one star in quality.
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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2005 - 11:14am PT
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Okay, I'm reopening the Cuidado part of this thread. After we did it, I downgraded it to 10a/b. Opps. I hadn't climbed at the Pinns for a while, and I forgot that Pinns ratings are sometimes sort of soft (well, wierd at any rate). It's a stiff 10a/b. Bouldery moves up to 10c. Some crucial holds will surely break. Last pitch (really not worth doing), will be 11a/b within a few more ascents (90% of the holds I used were flexing, and my partner broke some big stuff). Also, this pitch is probably 10c/d if yer under 5foot9.
Here's an interesting point about ratings and Pinnacles. How can a route have moves harder than the overall grade? Go climb at the Pinns and you'll know...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 11, 2005 - 11:46am PT
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Billygoat: K-man is not an aid climber....
Hmmm, so you're saying I freed Bridwell Bolts (and a bunch of other aid lines I've climbed)?
Billygoat: I downgraded it [Cuidado] to 10a/b. .... It's a stiff 10a/b. Bouldery moves up to 10c.
In Werner's memorable words:
billygoat = nut case
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Sonora, California
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Nov 11, 2005 - 11:51am PT
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So, Al Dude, what was your name for the crack climb on the Monolith? The in-progress second pitch looks, well like it needs seasoning. Gimme a better name, if you gave it one.
Mud, at first I thought you must have meant that they were banned FOR life (you know, typo and all). Then I started thinking about your approach to such things and realized that you probably meant banned from life after all.
And Billygoat, you finally did identify a difference between us. Very different approach to interacting with people, one that I think will leave you unhappy in the end. In my older age I've really come to believe in the old adage that you catch more flies with honey than vinegar (but then who wants to catch flies anyway). I try really hard to give people the benefit of the doubt. If they prove me wrong I ignore them for life, or crack down hard, as appropriate. I can stir up sh*t as well as or better than most (remember my profession), but I find that building friendship and concensus where possible leads to a lot more happiness. A lot more. And better results too.
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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2005 - 12:13pm PT
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Kelly,
Good morning. Let's see... In Brad's words (and I'm paraphrasing): Bridwell Bolts is an easy aide line. You coulda at least mentioned the Prow. That's got a bit of spice. Well, more like salt--not really spice, but flavor.
I'd much rather be a nut case that a cased nut. Put that one through your noggin'.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Sonora, California
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Nov 11, 2005 - 12:35pm PT
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Of course we don't count as aid the "couple of times" that Kelly has hung on hooks at Pinns, ass swinging in the breeze, way above his pro, drilling deperately. I bet he's done more hooking than I have, and I've done a lot of walls in the Valley. And Billygoat states what he'd rather be as between two possibilities. There's a third option: what if you're both?
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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2005 - 12:37pm PT
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Brad,
Friendship? In what sense. Aristotelian (as in Nicomachean Ethics), or Socratic (as in any one of Plato's dialogues--say Phaedrus, Timaeus, Gorgias, Laches, and really a bunch of others). I (and this is probably obvious) land on the Socratic side of things. So... Happiness is of little consequence in my ethics. Satisfaction weighs much more heavily. The pay off of the big adventure...
Take Cuidado... when I did that route I found myself constantly asking who the hell would give this thing two stars. Then I found my self wondering why Mr. Davis told me it was the best route at Pinnacles. Then I realized I'd been sandbagged. Overall, huge satisfaction at doing the piece of sh#t (cause I was thankful that we had enough sense not to dislodge the stuff that coulda killed us). but I was seriously unhappy about opening the guidebook and seeing two stars. Nevertheless, I maintained a smile for several days henceforth.
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billygoat
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2005 - 12:41pm PT
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Kelly should state for himself, but for as long as I've known him I've never known him to regularly seek out aide climbs. Sh#t, we've all done a few moves of aide, but to be an aide climber I think one has to WANT to go aiding. I'll never deny that k-man is a burly ass climber, but he also tends to lower you as soon as you've hung on the rope.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 11, 2005 - 12:49pm PT
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My words about Billy goat was only in reference to a particular subject matter in a different thread not about the Man as a whole, K-man.
Try not to take things out of context.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 11, 2005 - 03:36pm PT
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[ed.]
Werner, I wasn't trying to use your quote out of context as much as I was trying to add more context to the claim.
But to be fair, let me frame my remark.
I think it's a bad idea to replace old bolts using old technology. Billygoat's stance that the character of Bridwell Bolts was damaged by replacing old 1/4" bolts with Rawl 3/4" is unwarranted. I'll bet Bridwell trusted his new 1/4" bolts like we trust a new Rawl 5-piece. Also, replacing old with old goes against the rebolting practice of using the old hole whenever possible. So 1) replacing old bolts with obsolete hardware = nutcase, IMO.
Claiming that I am not an aid climber...2) Nutcase. I won't say that I'm a big wall master, but hell, I've done some nailing, hauling, jugging, and wtf, hooking. I've also done the route that's in question here. So I take offense at billygoat's attempt to discredit my opnion on this subject by saying that I am not an aid climber. (I actually thought it was a cool idea to hook the route using the bolts for saftey.)
Lastly, downgrading a climb from .10c to .10a/b, then a sentence later saying that it has .10c moves on it == NUTCASE !!
Or maybe I'm just cranky today.
:- k
PS. Billygoat, what are you trying to say here: "In Brad's words (and I'm paraphrasing): Bridwell Bolts is an easy aide line. You coulda at least mentioned the Prow. ..."
Is there a connection somewhere; I honestly don't get your point.
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pc
Trad climber
Thousand Oaks, CA
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Nov 11, 2005 - 03:54pm PT
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FWIW
The Rubine Guide has an excellent section on bolts. I'm not sure if it's still "current", I haven't read it nor placed a bolt in quite a while, but I remember it being a great read. Written by Tom Davis I think.
At the time it scared me away from using any of the bolts at Castle Rock except for the main one on top of the Castle.
pc
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aldude
climber
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Nov 11, 2005 - 04:40pm PT
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"Swanson's Crack is located on the Machete near the Direct. Originally ,in my youthful zeal,Ienvisioned it as a Comician Super Direct - DREAMIN.The first pitch was a groady fist crack that we protected with hexes - no cams yet. The ethic of the day was no aid on the FA of a free climb so hooks and tieoffs were Verboten - stance or retreat. It would probably be 3 or 4 long pitches at a high standard today.
On another note, Pete Ferguson and I freed the Shaft in 1978. Don't have Rubine's book - was it a FFA?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 11, 2005 - 04:57pm PT
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The ethic of the day was no aid on the FA of a free climb so hooks and tieoffs were Verboten - stance or retreat.
Long live tradition!!
What are the hardest routes bolted in stance at:
1) Pinnacles
2) Yosemite
3) Josh
4) World
I think I know a couple...
:- k
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aldude
climber
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Nov 11, 2005 - 06:21pm PT
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Schneider and I stance bolted a route at Medlicott called =Schneiderator 12c. Needless to say he lead it but I drew one of the harder stances. It was so steep and tippy that I couldn't look up and used the side of my hammer to reduce leverage. Bachar did the second ascent the next day but not before a 25 footer on his first attempt - guess the grade was solid! Body and Soul may also be a contender.
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