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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 26, 2005 - 03:06am PT
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"Ditch Trad...I just keep getting this "Quick Time needs additional software that is not available on the server at this time"...maybe 20 times! I really just wanted to see this, I myself led this route in the '80's and am aware of how monumental this solo is..."
ditto here...i don't think there is video, it's just a sequence of stills.
i don't doubt that the dude did it... we've all gone for crazy at-our-limit solos at one time or another and gotten away with it...but it's such an out-there proposition i'd sure like to see a running video. there probably is video, being held back for commercial release.
funny how there's just a couple grainy photos of bachar on butterballs, and NO photos of bachar on moratorium, which he considers his most "out there" excursion. bacher made his rep,and a lot of ducats, on his solos, but it was so much more low-key back then, from a "media" perspective.
personally, if i'd a done it, i probably would have been alone, and not said anything about it to anyone but my closest freinds. but i guess times have changed. the idea of a photog entourage when free soloing is, too me, in poor taste. but you can make a good living doing it now...so be it. but i pine for the days when a solo of such magnitude was so, i don't know, religious if you will, to the participant, that you HAD to do it alone. that's the way it was for me, on my meager excursions.
whatever....props to the dude. all i ever managed was a tr of the thing.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 26, 2005 - 03:22am PT
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some top sends-
Tita Piaz on Torre Piaz, 1907
Comici on the N. Face Civetta and Cima Grande, '31 and '33
French on Fitzroy, 1952
Bonatti Pillar, solo '55
Porter on Asgard, solo
West face of Gasherbrum IV, alpine duo
British route on Nameless, 1976
Norwegians on Great Trango, 1984
Slovenians on Bhagaratti III
Nose free in a day, Lynn
all these sends were way ahead of their time.
what he said. leave it to john to bring a little perspective to the issue. paul pruess and walter bonatti were the most bad-assed soloists of all time.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 27, 2005 - 11:59pm PT
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I was commenting on the 'cinematography,' not the veracity, innocent until proven guilty, n all.
you guys ever get it to run?
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 28, 2005 - 12:31am PT
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bvb said: "funny how there's just a couple grainy photos of bachar on butterballs"
Yea, I personally seen him do a lot of solos so I know. Once he goes "lets do Nabisco wall" Ok man you lead I say. He leads the waverly wafer with no pro belays me up. Then he leads butterballs with no pro and clips the anchor bolts and keeps on going to the top with no more pro.
I used to watch him and Croft solo the Nabisco wall via butterballs whew! then butterfingers off! Yikes!
That John Bachar was a master soloist and climber that you literaly had to see to believe.
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Apocalypsenow
Trad climber
Cali
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Oct 28, 2005 - 12:49am PT
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Katherine the Great's 'send" of Matterhorn in the winter. I know, there was some controversy, but damn...she still did it!
Now what ever happened to Katherine Destiville? (spelling?)
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 28, 2005 - 12:58am PT
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We were drinking coffee in camp in HVCG one winter morning when Bacahar walked by. Above us there was a group of maybe 40 outing club types with Top ropes going and instructors hububing. He walked up to Spiderline and put on his shoes. The commotion lessened. by the time he was halfway up (solo) it was dead quiet, all eyes were on him, even the guys on topropes. There was even a guy with a movie camera on a tripod that he quickly moved around to record the action. He topped out and wandered off. The club went back to it's business.
we poured another cup and watched him solo bearded cabbage. By the time cup #3 was warming our hands he was off to the ski tracks and it was time for us to figure out what we were going to climb that day.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Dec 16, 2010 - 04:23am PT
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How about Wolfgang Gullich's out and back ascent of Seperate Reality sans rope? Rad. Why did he downclimb it (too)?
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Dec 16, 2010 - 05:13am PT
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Proudest Send:
Richard Cilley on "The Living Conjuction"
Or-
Mike Paul on "Jaws"
Best I've ever seen.
Just caught this one...Might have been most blood spilled...Russ is way too humble, he's got a plethora of amazing feats under his belt! Loved your pics in "The Stonemasters" book, glad to say I've known you and can be considered a pal... :)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 16, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
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Since we are talking sends...
Peter Croft floating The Shadow (University Wall, Squamish) at 13b!
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Stewart Johnson
climber
yo mama
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Dec 16, 2010 - 09:49pm PT
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messner, solo. everest.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
yo mama
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Dec 16, 2010 - 09:55pm PT
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i have to also mention jellos on sight,first ascent on ama dablam!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 16, 2010 - 10:01pm PT
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The Shadow - that is, the second pitch of University Wall - now gets graded 5.12d. Still a very stout on-sight ascent.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Dec 16, 2010 - 10:03pm PT
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Andrel Heckmaier et all- the Eiger 1937
Anything by walter Bonnatti
Reinhold Meisner- Everest solo, with out oxygen
Jim Donini et al Torre Egger
Colon Hailey and Rolando gariboliti- Torre Traverse
Steve House and Vince anderson-Rupal face of Nanga parbat Alpine style
Peter croft- The rostrum 3 times in one day solo
Alister Crowley- Mud Clffs at 5.9 over 100 years ago!
The Matterhorn in 1876
Lynn Hill - The Nose!
The Crazy slovenian routes
Conrad Kain- Bugaboo Spire 1906 while guiding,
Mount Mckinley- Cassin Ridge
Willi Unsoled's First assent traverse of everest, with ?
There are so many more!
Honnold- Free Solo Moonlight Buttress
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 16, 2010 - 10:10pm PT
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Tom Hornbein was Willi's partner.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
yo mama
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Dec 16, 2010 - 10:11pm PT
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the proudest send has to be on sight, solo. first ascent. goes to jello.
for a bunch of climbs...
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Dec 16, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
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Lots of stuff by Fred Beckey!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 16, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
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I still say George Lowe and Chris Jones of North Twin.
What did they have, a dozen pins?
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Auto-X Fil
Mountain climber
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Nov 26, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
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Bumping political garbage off the main page.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 26, 2011 - 10:04pm PT
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Hands down, Honold solo of Moonlight Buttress. Way more impressive than his Half Dome ascent.
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