What Is Trad ?????????

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StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
Norman Claude

climber
Apr 14, 2013 - 08:51pm PT
Lucky Streaks,Keating, Roy, 4 p.m. start, six year old rope, hexes, no food, no water, tape deck, six pack.

CF
Risk

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:08pm PT

Anyone remember this? I'll fix orientation later.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
Tarbuster,

it sounds like trad in CA is, to this day different than trad in WY. This is related to what Jaybro expounded upon Climbing [rules] is local.

Rgold has me searching my feelings for what are our [WY sport rules]rules implied and stated.




Climbing is about fun and to some additionally the redpoint.

We honor a reasonable timeframe for people to complete their efforts.

We do not tolerate destruction of our efforts.

If you don't like the stick clip you can add a bolt and then have your girlfriend stand on your shoulders and clip it. We have more concern about starting ground fall safety than trad.

etc...



WyoRockMan

Social climber
Flank of the Bighorns
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:13pm PT
Post 666 reserved for Frank Sanders. (Trad)
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:20pm PT
Did Batso play by or submit to any rules other than his own?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:24pm PT
My muscles vs. your brain, Bicth.

A sanctioned ten-round match.

In Modesto.

In Tom's backyard.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:34pm PT
Ed,

Bitch Muscle must be trad, certainly it's not PC. Anne went into a bitch fit when she heard this name,"It has to be about a dog, what else could it be?"

My reply,"A lot of my route names are meant to have double entendre, go figure it out."

We have redone some of these clips since Freddie told us the government rules for starting sport climbs in Calimnose. I hope it is better next time.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:45pm PT
WyoRockMan,

For that Devil you can refine it more than trad -- Tower Trad. Freddie, Jaybro and I have invited the Kernel to other places and he will not budge. Upon asking him to visit other places he then takes me onto his deck and graciously rolls a hand gesture towards the Tower and asks,"What else do I need?" And I reply, "A touch of travel like you use to do but with a female sport climber"
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Apr 14, 2013 - 09:53pm PT
ED,

you must have pulled it off for the safety of others. Usually there is an equally good hold at its base.

Since you were there we have determined that most of the rock is shattered cemented dolomitic marble, not the quartzite it looks like. You may not do (meta)sedimentary rocks much?
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Apr 14, 2013 - 10:03pm PT


what with all the stuff that falls off...

ADVENTURE
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 14, 2013 - 10:05pm PT

"A touch of travel like you use to do but with a female sport climber"
Ha ha! You know he's bicycling g around the south with a female companion at this moment....

I knew it was marble when we were there, I thought we all did (?)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
Norman Claude @5:51 PM said:
Lucky Streaks, Keating, Roy, 4 p.m. start, six year old rope, hexes, no food, no water, tape deck, six pack.

CF

Damn, Claude those were good times!
TRAD™ ♥ ... Was and is an awful whole lot of ……………… FUN♥♥♥♥♥♥
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Apr 14, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
Jaybro,


I knew it was marble when we were there, I thought we all did (?)

I cannot dispute what you thought but I told Kevin Chamberlin (metamorph geo at UW) about how I found quartzite nearby that looked just like the dolomitic marble on the wall. His reply, "In some instances you need some acid to tell what you have." At the time of this chat we had already used the acid. The similar insitu quartzite is nearby and also is marble (limestone). It fizzed away very fast compared with the dolimitic marble.

For the Kernal's touch of travel I meant to some climbing area.

rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 14, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
A tradmobile, packed to the gills with future hippie has-been trad climbers. (Actually, the two visible future hippie has-beens are math and physics PhD's, so something might have been gained on the road to has-been-ery.)


Yet another hippie has-been trad climber doddering up a Red Rock moderate.


The ol' Snake Dike shuffle BITD


Washed-up hippie has-been trad climber trying desperately but with little success to grasp the modern forms of climbing

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 14, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
I broke something off on every single pitch I did at four stories! ...and I was the only one without a helmet!
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Apr 14, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
rgold,

it has the looks of Colorado, not the Black Hills?
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Apr 14, 2013 - 11:00pm PT
Yes, the IH Scout shot was taken in RMNP. The driver is Fred Pfahler, who besides me only Pat Ament would know. The passenger is Steve Derenzo, who no one here knows except perhaps improbably Ed? I think Steve works (or worked) at Los Alamos.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Apr 14, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
Jaybro,

Neil doesn't remember whether anything broke off with him. Is he a hippie turned trad climber?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 14, 2013 - 11:14pm PT
What is Neil? Good question!

....is he a trad climber? Or more so? I don't know. I've seen him equal amounts of time at 4 stories and Vedauwoo. All I really know is I want him to meet Blitzo, so we can have the Bloot and the Galoot!
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