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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Hahahahahahahahaha! Nice one Tami :)
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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How does Tami know all these details about MH?
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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OK this might seem a bit remote but bear with me as it is related to climbing in Squamish in the seventies.
In this age of political correctness we must change certain vernacular.
The formation formerly known as The Squaw is now called Shlaynay and essentially impossible to spell and unpronounceable.
How about the First Nations Significant Other?
Would that make an Indian Giver an Aboriginal Philanthropist?
Kind of reminds me of the late Sam Kinnison's explanation for someone's (initialsWG) inexpicable rise to entertainment fame.
"The whole world decided not to hurt her feelings."
Back to climbing.
PB aka, Chief, Tomohawk etc.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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And what should be done about routes like "Teenage girls don't blow gorbies" or "Smell of fat chick"
And I think Hamie would like to rename "Rock On" to "Rocking on for one more short pitch above Bastille"
The whole naming climbs thing is sorta weird.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Some route (and cliff) names are politically incorrect, sometimes embarrassingly so. Adolescent silliness you never quite live down.
The Squamish people have now published a Squamish-English dictionary, which may prove a useful reference.
Slhanay, as with the cliff's former name, was and is an unofficial name, so at least there's no complicated name change process required.
ps I resemble that remark about how my cat disciplines me. She has all sorts of razor sharp attachments already.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Cheers, Ghost! You must have received the pix I sent you way back.
Regards, H.
EDIT: Ooops! Wrong decade!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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You must have received the pix I sent you way back.
Yup. And as you may recall, I never tacked a name onto it. Just told as many people as I could that I'd found an incredible climb in the South Gully. The "Rock On" name came from Jim and Bob when they added the last pitch.
Did you guys mostly aid it? When Steve Loomer and I first climbed it, the cracks on the first two pitches were full of dirt and roots, and we couldn't free it until we'd cleaned it out. It wasn't as dirty as most of the lower-angle cracks and corners on the Chief, but it did take a couple of trips up it before we had it cleaned to the point that it was a reasonable free climb.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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"Peter, Tami and I freed Bastille in the rain".
??????? Jim, it's always raining out there. That's why it's called Squish--it's the sound of a rockshoe on wet moss.
Yes, Ghost we hung on a few pieces, but not a lot. More often we just used the dirt and roots which you so recklessly removed later. It was a technique which I now refer to as "Early Squamish". The concept of cleaning a climb, or even a single pitch, was unheard of. We climbed like Tami's neanderthal ice climbers, not like her super-honed rockstars of the 70s.
"Grunt. Moss good."
"Aarrggghh. Shrub better. Eat shrub too."
H.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Tami- When i bailed from "Rock On" it was getting late and we still had the last two pitches to go when we got to the anchor.
We were climbing on my 70 m half ropes so it was easy to bail in one rap. What was not so easy was getting the end of the rope unstuck from the sapling it had decided to wrap itself around on the way down.
It was only 15m or so up on the easy terrain on the left just to the right of the great arch. Someone had a fixed rope on the great arch so i put a prussik on it as a backup and climbed right to free my stuck rope. Then simply took a nice swing and rapped down.
I was thinking in your situation you could have used a prussik & backup knot to lead the route placing protection so if you did fall and the rope should unstick then your belay could catch your ass.
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bmacd
Mountain climber
100% Canadian
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Peter, Tami and I freed Bastille in the rain.
Bad news for you Jim, gf and I also freed it, also in the rain, before you even knew about rock climbing,. So I am contesting your FFA claim bro .... besides MH has written it up as someone else completely.
;)
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Bad news for you Jim, gf and I also freed it, also in the rain, before you even knew about rock climbing,
Oh yeah? Well we freed it while you were still in diapers. And anyway, all you kids can do nowdays is hang off bolts and talk about sending the redpoint and you don't know anything about real climbing because climbing is about adventure and bloody bolts just take all the bloody adventure away and when we were your age we had to crawl uphill both ways to get to and from school and it was in a snowstorm and...
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Tami, can you tell us about Spiderfly? It's a shortish leaning crack near the houses in hospital hill with an easier leaning crack next to it. The new manicured trail that passes right under it has brought it out of obscurity. McLane calls it a Squamish legend that you guys did in 1979.
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Younkin
Mountain climber
Utah
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I was never able to get up to Squamish but I was in Leavenworth allot in the 70's. I hung out with Julie Brugger, Carla Firey, Mark Ward, Jay Osseander, Al Givler, Dave Davis and Bill Lingley, I have talked to Carla a few times over the years and Jay Osseander is up in ALaska. Bill Lingley worked in Olympia for Washington State in the Geology Department. I now live in Utah and only tell stories about climbing. I loved those years, my favorite place was mountaineer creek basin at the base of Sherpa Glacier on Mount Stuart.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Egads! I'm on youtube?! Is nothing profane? What next?
Anyway, when I started climbing at the Chief, it was still cooling from molten magma, and p'terodactyls were nesting on the second summit. Plus there was the crawling through snow and slugs bit.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Nice pic. As I said upthread, "neanderthal types".
Big Mike----If you only had 2 [short] pitches to go,you were close to the top of Bastille, and at the START of Rock On! You were also climbing on the toes of neanderthals. Don't pay any attention to Jim, Tami, Bruce, MH etc. They're just a bunch of know-nuttin' kids.
H.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Hamish- You will notice that i put "Rock On" in quotations.
When you guys did the Bastille, KM says you went straight under a chockstone where "Rock On" traverses left. Is this accurate?
Mike
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:10am PT
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What is that odd graffiti above/behind the climber's back?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:30am PT
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It's not graffiti Anders, it's just the photographer's watermark.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Oct 10, 2011 - 01:52am PT
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Mike
Yes we went under a 'chockstone'. It's huge, the size of a small shed or rail car, and is clearly visible on P334 of KM's 2005 guide. We named it the guillotine, hence Bastille. The whole feature is now called Bastille, while the climb is called Rock On. Jim Campbell, who added the two [short] extra pitches, and pulled the name switch, was also the guidebook writer at the time. Hmmmmmmmmm..... The power of the pen!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 10, 2011 - 03:12am PT
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Hamish-
Thanks for the reply. Did you guys place bolts at the top then? Was there a tree there you could rap off?
I am interested in going that way one day just to check it out. Any potential above it that you remember?
Mike
PS MH yes that is my watermark. You will notice on the later images that i have made it smaller. I also hide them in the images a la where's waldo. Every image with a smaller one has at least one other hiding somewhere! See if you can find them!
What no one found my bad joke funny? :)
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