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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 02:58pm PT
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Black Rock Bouldering Gym, AZ
Neo and I went and checked out the new Black Rock bouldering gym in Phoenix which opened one week ago. Wow, air conditioning and only five miles from my estate. It was fun to play on all of the different climbing angles, and donating some of my skin to the new giant colorful holds. I climbed 25 problems V3 and below! Yeah! evolv in the house! Representing!!! I believe Louie Anderson designed and built the gym.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 20, 2016 - 03:51pm PT
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Marty, thank you for all you have done for our climbing community .
I've visited Queen Creek in the 80s was able to climb 'Volcanic Panic' before it was blasted.
When would that have been '91'. Or 92?
And it is a beautiful plaque! That said, sorry I felt it and wrote what follows
( I'm sure you'll see the slippery slope, and given this next gen of climbers coming out ...)
I'm absolutely worthy of the desecration that a manorial plaque provides in a wilderness setting.
We all are!
That is why we should, as old men, resist the urge to Phook up,
children learn from what they see us do.
**offensive hyperbole.... for why?
I hope some younger similarly offended
Pry bar wielding bolt spraying juvenile retro bolts your routes and removes the plaque.
( THAT IS JUST SO WRONG! Im sorry, but to just delete it would deny the ernest feeling)
We must be good examples for the climbers who will be in charge, Stewardship has got to start where the climbers mostly now get their start, In the gym.
I'm sorry but it is short sighted where will it end if we tolerate all fixed memorials !
Again it is one opinion, but the addition of such things, Can & has threatened access.
When I die, I want my memorial plaque afixed to the Triple Cracks on the Shield !
That's okay with everyone - I'm sure.
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** REPLY
Ho man Im three(2) hours ahead but that is no excuse. Ive recently seen the way the gym crowd now opens routes. Top down with two pry bars and a tag line to pull off, on purpose, good holds & gear placements .
I had to try hard to explain that a flexing flake is a learning experience.
The crowd is against non-destructive climbing practices.
It is safer, they say, to strip a route. Pry & hammer off holds, then climb on what remains.
The thinking is the rock is the victim,not a climber or his belay partner, ( often a non- climbing friend )
It is a hard argument to fight
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One I will never win so the crags and rocks that I've climbed on will stay unreported by me.
I know that means the places will be renamed and taken credit for by others.
When I posted this, I was just back from a 'secret' crag , secret because Ken Nichols and his sycophants still hold a lot of sway in some east coast states.
Two states, only, but if you are over 30yrs old, your lumped in with his followers.
No matter that all the dedicated gear anchors, that they were hanging off at this cliff are mine.
(10 of them, with trigger-less cams, and pins) Ive never chopped a bolt and don't think that I will.
I want to see the climbs I've climbed bolted and climbed on. Just not destroyed.
The person who was the main culprit was working under the assumption that the route were top ropes, he was going to, and may still take credit for the place.
Thus my lashing out.... You did not deserve to be maligned and I apologize.
I think I took one picture of this choss pile, showing the 2 foot square, flake that was removed, by hammer & pry bar, while standing one a ledge 6 feet off the ground, The flake was solid.
Changing the start, (raising the difficulty) on a 1/2 pitch wonder in the woods, that was protectable with gear, into what I think every seasoned climber would see as a chipped route... ..
MARTY! Im A big fan of your thread, and you are a treasure .
I give your guide book (and vision)some credit for my happiness.
Because of the wonderful things that you have done, things that you pioneered ,
opened, that we enjoyed on an other wise harsh climbing trip.
I Married the women, I took to Queen creek.
I was amazed at the fact that you would endorse the plaque.
you seemed to have missed my very sincere,( and separated for emphasis.)
mea copa...that I added after I'd calmed down.
I don't want to delete my -so wrong it hurts - posts I learn from them.
I was Absolutely contrite
You and the Arizona Community have Had another stunning loss lately. Ho man! I'm not sure what to say . . . this makes it so much worse.
they share The Last Name !
On July 15th Jim Scott of Tucson AZ age 55 went to sleep and didn't wake up.
Jim Scott who often rubbed people the wrong way on this site was always happy to climb with those he might have disagreed with or teased. To be sure whatever he posted online he would have said to your face, with Jim you always knew where you stood.
Jim was a major route developer and was involved in first ascents from his early years of climbing in Montana until he died. On Mount Lemmon he was involved in almost 500 new routes. In the last 7 months he developed a small new Limestone area SE of Tucson, created an area for beginning climbers on Mt Lemmon and added a number of climbs in other areas on Mt Lemmon. In the last 7 weeks Jim helped create a new area called the Headstones with five towers from 50 to 180 feet tall. This area below the Boneyard now has 38 routes from 5.9- to 5.12. Many days of brushing, trundling tons of loose rock, marking bolt placements then drilling them up. As always Jim was more than happy to let someone who just happened to show up that day tag the FA.
Jim Scott has been a major part of the Southern AZ climbing scene for 20 years. He has climbed more routes in southern than anyone I know. His great sense of humor, giving nature, love of craft beer, and endless enthusiasm will be sorely missed by all who knew him.
Eric (fazio) Rhicard - Jim Scott who often rubbed people the wrong way, on the Web,(sic) was always happy to climb with those he might have disagreed with or teased. To be sure whatever he posted online he would have said to your face, with Jim you always knew where you stood.
Jim was a major route developer and was involved in first ascents from his early years of climbing in Montana until he died. On Mount Lemmon he was involved in almost 500 new routes. In the last 7 months he developed a small new Limestone area SE of Tucson, created an area for beginning climbers on Mt Lemmon and added a number of climbs in other areas on Mt Lemmon. In the last 7 weeks Jim helped create a new area called the Headstones with five towers from 50 to 180 feet tall. This area below the Boneyard now has 38 routes from 5.9- to 5.12. Many days of brushing, trundling tons of loose rock, marking bolt placements then drilling them up. As always Jim was more than happy to let someone who just happened to show up that day tag the FA.
Jim Scott has been a major part of the Southern AZ climbing scene for 20 years. He has climbed more routes in southern than anyone I know. His great sense of humor, giving nature, love of craft beer, and endless enthusiasm will be sorely missed by all who knew him.
Eric F-Rhicard
Aug 9, 2016
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
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Gnome,
I clearly understand your memorial message, but why do you add, "I hope some juvenile retro bolts your routes?"
You are the only one offended by the plaque, and you never have even been to the Lost Wall. Fun Saturday afternoon sitting on your couch spitting on people for fun?
 However your comment does raise a question about memorial plaques being placed in climbing areas in remembrance of the climber that died while climbing. With the John Scott plaque, I knew of John but never climbed with him and I can’t say he was even a friend of mine. He died at a route I established and I am the area guidebook author so at the time it seemed the correct thing to do. Me being heavily experienced with drilling bolts made me the plaque installer. My overall compassion toward the accident makes me personally feel that I did the correct thing. The Lost Wall at Upper Devils canyon is hardly climbed at all, that’s if you can even find it. It is on National Forest land that may be lost in the Oak Flat copper mining land trade issue. If the plaque was being installed in a major climbing area with high traffic I would have been opposed to installing it.
In Zermatt the trail to the Matterhorn begins at the memorial climbers cemetery (Which is fascinating by the way!)
In movies I have seen a large Everest basecamp climbers memorial.
(two examples of high traffic climbing areas with many memorials to view before the adventure begins.
Many Blessings to John Scott.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 12:39pm PT
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The hook display board is one of 4 hook boards overall that will soon be on display at the Phoenix Rock Gym, AZ. On the display is a Cassin Ice Hook that I have searched for with no luck finding it. I recently received a gift from Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum who was able to locate the hard to find, "Cassin Gancio Da Ghiaccio." It is a super cool hook! On this hook board is missing the newer BD Spectre Ice Hook and Larger BD Rock Pecker piton hook. The other half of my Chouinard hooks are presently in the Chouinard display at the AZ Hiking Shack.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 03:46pm PT
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It's 5:00pm on Tuesday August 2nd and all looks calm, so I headed to Kinko's copy center to copy a few pictures for tomorrows OR show in Utah. At 6:00pm suddenly a storm charged in and dumped 2" of rain on my house in Phoenix in 45 minutes time. I took the side streets home from Kinko's since all of the roads were parking lots with nobody driving anywhere due to the flooding. I knew my house was flooding so I got home quickly and took this picture of the water starting its advance into my house. The rain water outside of my house was 8" above my house foundation, and the entire subdivision was a lake from one end of the street to the other. Good times, no time to panic just time for decisions. Since I was to be on a plane to the OR show in 8 hours and my house interior is soaked, I started with the razor knife chopping my drenched carpets in sections and dragging them to the side of my house. Half of my house filled with water but after the evening battle, the mess was cleaned, many fans were positioned in my house, and I was on that plane to Utah!!!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 03:47pm PT
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2016 Outdoor Retailer Show Review, Summer Market, August 3-6
— 120 photos
Screetch….brakes are on. I was witnessing some manufacturers telling people that no photos are allowed to be taken at the show. And other manufacturers were insisting that photos are taken of their product and their athlete talent. I am not sure if this is forcing the purchase of a show media pass thing or what. In this day of the cell phone and everybody having a camera with them, I feel that it is ridiculous that a manufacturer brings to the show precious prototypes and displays them to the public, and then arrests anybody who attempts to shoot a photo anywhere near their booth. On top of that cameras are shown and sold at the show. On the photos I am showing in this review, I personally asked each manufacturer their permission before shooting the photos. (exception: three overall show pics).
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Yes it’s time again for the OR show!!! Yeah!!! Location: Salt Palace in Salt Lake City, Utah. For this years show I was solo for the first day, then Neo (Nicholas Oxentenko) and Jaime Gangi joined me for the remaining three days. There is so much to see at the show and this year there appears to be a lot more people in the isles than in the past. For the manufacturers sake hopefully the crowds in the isles are Buyers. My show title is a representative Buyer for the Arizona Hiking Shack/AHS Rescue (and many other hats).
The first order of business is setting up the Karabin Climbing Museum in the Omega Pacific Inc booth. This years display is titled “Mixed Nuts,” which displays around 100 different climbing nuts accompanied with photos and historical information. Once again the Karabin Museum teamed up with Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum in Corsica and created this awesome display. Stephane is the KING of Nuts and Cams and is the best resource for passive protection information. Thanks Stephane, you totally rock!!!!! Thank you so much Omega Pacific for your museum support over the years!!!!! Michael Lane was having appendix issues and couldn’t attend the show so my main Omega Pacific contacts were Marty Hiester and Brandon Murphy. Thanks Marty and Brandon for your impeccable hospitality!!! Big THANKS also to Omega Pacific for allowing us space in their storage closet which served as the museum base camp. If you attended the show and made a guess on how many Stoppers were in the Omega Pacific pickle jar, I was the first to guess ‘0’, because Omega Pacific produces Wedgies not Stoppers. The final correct amount of Wedgies in the jar was 2,324 and the win went to Michael@Backcountry.com (guessed 2500). Now back to the crowded hallways!
The first climbing superstar I bumped into was Hans Florine, same as the last few shows. However I couldn’t contain him yet for a signature since he was busy running around getting his show game plan in order. The fastest man on stone is tough to contain! For this show I arrived with no game plan except for catching up with old friends, and experiencing the most of the show. I looked at my two open hands and let God direct me where I needed to be, so I wandered over to the evolv booth to start my show off with a hug from Chris Sharma.
Best choice of food samples
Outside of the Salt Palace is the Pavilion tents where many manufacturers are displaying their products. The Pavilion #1 tent is where the majority of the power food samples are served to the public. This taste testing spree of hundreds of samples serves as lunch for one of the days for the museum crew. For this year I did a shout out to Neo and Jaime to rate their top three foods that excited their tastebuds….. and the results are in! #1 choice for Marty and Neo is Natures Bakery for their many flavors of Fig Bars. The fig bars are so awesome I am working on a sponsorship since I can consume these by the cases!
#1 food choice from Jaime is Navitas Naturals, especially for their Cacoa, Hemp and Maca nut bars. Navitas Naturals is Marty’s #2 choice.
#2 food choice for Jaime is Yerba Mate. Jaime is a connisseur of fine brews and is also a investor in coffee and beer companies. She knows her drinks!
#2 food choice for Neo is Gorilly Goods for their Original Fruit and Nut snacks. “Just raw fruits, nuts, and seeds packaged with a commitment to be the best snack-food choice you can make.” “Do good for yourself, for others, and for the world….We do it together.” Marty’s #3 choice is Gorilly Goods.
#3 choice for Neo is Bakers Mills Kodiak Cakes. Neo is all about the pancake mixes and he specifically comes to the show for pancake mix, go figure! I personally think sticker collecting is way more important than the pancake mix sampling. But Neo has a point, the Kodiak Cakes are totally awesome! Jaime #3 food choice is Natures Bakery for their Fig Bars. So in this OR Summer 2016 show, Natures Bakery is the most favored by the museum crew. Big applause, whistles and screams!!!
While I am on the food subject, I found myself everyday returning to the Steamboat Springs Sweetwood Cattle Company Beef Jerky booth. I personally avoid eating beef, but I ate so many of these samples at the show that there are probably two less cows in the world now because of me, sorry cows!
On my business list I had a meeting with Clif Bar since I was in search of two Clif flavors that are hard to find: Apricot and Banana Nut Bread. At first I was told that they did not have those flavors at the show, and I wasn’t surprised since the retail stores are also missing only those two flavors, besides the seasonal flavors. So as I left the Clif Bar booth with my shoulders shrugged and face pouted, I notice a case of Apricot hidden amongst the other flavors. It was like balloons and confetti suddenly dropped from the ceiling as I glided back to the front counter with the Apricot score in hand. But this score had to be not just one sample, but the whole case. So I arranged to pick up the case on the last day of the show. So on the last show day, Clif Bar totally surprised me as they presented to me a case of Banana Nut Bread as well. A Clif Bar representative made a special trip to the show to deliver the Banana Nut Bread for the museum. I am totally psyched for having the triple monopoly: tasted all flavors, have a wrapper from each bar, and have the cardboard cases of each flavor. Thanks Clif Bar for the fun!!!
#1 show beer glass
Wow I wish Robert was here to give the beer glass review because I was not impressed with this years beer glass selection. This was also the first year that no glasses were free (which I don’t mind paying the $5 - $10 in support, and I’m only after the glass, not the beer). It was show day three and the winning beer glass had not surfaced yet, so Jaime and I looked outside of the box to at least have one glass in the review. We both loved the 4 cup mountain set from a company named United by Blue, and that became our beer glass best. But then it was bested by La Sportiva. I was walking by the La Sportiva booth when suddenly my La Sportiva girlfriend exclaimed with a smile that she had something cool for me!!! Sure enough it was the winning beer glass!!! What was outdoing the beer glass was the proud smile on the La Sportiva’s reps face that she found me in the crowd of 70,000+ people.
Manufacturers Booths
The artist in me has to give a shout out to all of the manufacturers at the show, and how creative they are on how they display their goods in their booths. The North Face for example has a huge booth, and it is so exciting to be in it that I may give up my V2 boulder project, and go climb Everest!!!!
The Royal Robbins booth was awesome!!! The message of the booth was centered on the climbing hero Royal Robbins. All around and throughout the Royal Robbins booth was Royals climbing history, gear, achievements, photos and more. I give a huge applause to the Royal Robbins team for putting this great historic display together. The inside news is that Liz Robbins is working with the company again. As a bonus for me I was given a Royal Robbins shirt hanger for the museum! Sweet!!! (Next show I will go after the pants hanger so I will have the set!)
The Osprey booth is a wonderful campsite complete with camp fire, seats, a Score Four game, and fun. The booth is continually interactive with people, sales reps, and fun free schwag give aways. The girl in the photo with the big smile is super friendly, but is also worn out from me begging to have the Osprey Score Four game for the museum. Someday…..
This year I got a better look at the Maxim booth and how they constructed it and it is a work of art. Whoever came up with the layout design is a true artist.
I have to give a shout out to my sponsor evolv and their really cool booth. I like the long bar counter that allows more open room and gives the booth a welcoming feeling. I love the Ashima Shiraishi poster (left side of photo) where she is climbing and her shadow is the ‘USA Climbing’ symbol.
Best new climbing product at the show
This years show appeared to be all about rope grabbing devices, and the newest device that was on my mind was the Wild Country Revo. It takes a little more to set up than a GriGri device, but its advantage is that it locks in both directions. Listed as: The first Bi-Directional assisted locking belay device. It was fun to toy around with the Revo at the show, but I want one to further test in the great outdoors. My #1 show new product choice goes to the Wild Country Revo.
Best Manufacturers catalog
Let me first say that I love all of the manufacturers catalogs so big applause to all of the manufacturers! In this category I am seeking the catalog that will become the future collectible, the cult classic, and the prize goes to E9. E9 had a very small booth showing clothing at the show, but it was the warmest booth overall. In a way as they held large smiles, I feel like they only understood a few of the words I was speaking, but they fully understood my museum message and they totally broke out with their homemade creations. I am blown away by how much heart E9 put into their silly catalogs, which are silly to the point of being major art classics! Pirates Gone Climbing, Boulderboy, and especially the small “Climbing wear built with art catalog” is creatively cut out like Martha Stewart made it. Big applause to E9 and their catalogs, HOWEVER…….. they almost got second to the 2017 Red Chili catalog book, and for one reason: I searched for over a half hour in the E9 catalogs and could not find any contact info or anything about them. I personally feel that a company should make itself available for the customer. Show buyers would be more comfortable doing business if the manufacture of the goods shows they have a solid location, and they advertise it. E9 was also showing a new bouldering brush that will be soon on the market.
The Red Chili 2017 catalog book is beautiful! Great catalog Stefan Glowacz!
My evolv teammates Robert Olson and Justin Wagner couldn’t make it to the show, so they still represented in the photo their team evolv colors. The photo was eventually moved to the main shoe display for the rest of the show. I totally love that evolv photo! And for all of the other evolv athletes out there, Marty Justin and Robert were at the show representing in style. “This tactic for sure gives us lifetime sponsorship!”
At the 2015 OR summer show I had the Edelrid Draco hanger in my hands, but they needed to keep it as a sample. The Edelrid Draco hanger is one of the top five items I really want to obtain at this 2016 show. This year Edelrid had extra hangers in their booth and even another surprise, a Dry Tool Holds (SS bracket) used for ice climbing try tooling in rock gyms. The Dry Tool Hold bracket is totally awesome and a unique addition to the museum for sure! Big THANKS Edelrid!!!
Since I have almost every Black Diamond catalog, obtaining the 2017 workbook was also one of my top five on my list. If for some reason I could not obtain it, I had two other store owners at the show as insurance to make that happen. The paparazzi never sleeps! Thanks Black Diamond for your support!
Last year at the 2015 summer OR show I noticed that Five Ten had round “poker chip” looking stealth rubber discs, which serve as shoe rubber samples for the Five Ten sales peoples. I tried to obtain a set at that show but was denied. So game on again at this 2016 show and the Poker Chip hunt was on! I was surprised that I scored the item so easily, but the red disc in the 2015 show, which was the most attractive one to me, was missing. Five Ten is still showing their Marathon shoe which has the red rubber so the game is still on for me! Yes!
And whats this? A FIXE catalog in the Five Ten booth? Yes Five Ten has returned to the bolting world by now distributing FIXE hardware. The FIXE hangers have a new logo and info stamp on them. I also noticed in the catalog that Fixe has a new Extractor Treflex nut tool.
I surprised Lynn Hill with a Lynn Hill phone card that is around 22 years old as she becomes the first person to free the Nose! In the magazine photo Lynn is climbing in a Snowbird comp in the early days.
I recently noticed that Upper Deck Goodwin Champions came out with a set of 2016 Sasha Digiulian trading cards. By luck and through many different sellers, I believe I have the full set. I brought them to the show to get them signed by Sasha, but she was out of the country climbing 5.14s. The Memorabilia card has a pink piece Sasha’s shirt (I believe), and the Memorabilia premium card has a piece of fabric from a Krieg chalk bag, and is 1/8” thick. Only 8 wood cards are made (Old Judge), only 16 shiny cards are made (Magician), and only 25 green border cards are made (Lady Luck). In the photo is missing the green border/black card, which is presently in the mail.
I finally caught up with Hans Florine at his book signing and he signed a bunch of stuff for me. Over the years I have bumped into Hans dozens of times and I got to know Hans the family man, and he is super cool! Big applause! I have found five different Allen & Ginter’s Topps 2010 Hans Florine cards so far, and have a extra set to send to Hans……..it will be his choice if he signs his own cards. Hmmm…I wonder if Hans will donate a pair of his old smelly Nose shoes to the museum……Hmmmm
I also was looking for Alex Honnold at the show but couldn’t find him. Upper Deck Goodwin Champions created a set of Alex Honnold cards in 2013. So far I have found six different ones. I am not sure what the fabrics are in the Memorabilia and Dual Memorabilia cards. On the way home from the show, Jaime showed me a photo of Alex Honnold being at the show with Hans Florine. Alex evaded my entire paparazzi staff……..dang he’s good!
I have a set of Katie Brown cards as well. Produced by Upper Deck Goodwin Champions in 2013. I am not sure what item Katie donated to be in her Memorabilia card. Recently I scored the really cool Red Magician Katie Brown card where only 13 cards were made.
Even NEO created his own business card for the show. “Badass Mountain Man”
OMG its Kevin Jorgeson!!! I silently weaved through the climbing product displays and trapped my prey within its sponsors booth. With Sharpie forward the superstars can do nothing but surrender. The Paparazzi never sleeps! I brought along this amazing photo of Kevin and I together at the 2015 Reel Rock Tour preview show. Kevin gladly signed it and gave it back to me. I glanced at it a few times, and then again, and then I really looked at it wondering where he signed it, (Laugh). When I found it I was like, whaaaat. Hold the phone!!!! Wow, he gave me a low energy signature. Kevin Jorgeson…..(pause) ”The man whom no mountain can stand in front of.” (pause) “Where all mens balls turned to pebbles, Kevin continued to climb on!” My hero and the hero of millions of others, has “L.E.S,”…A low Energy Signature. In case you can’t find the signature, it’s in the upper right corner of the photo.
So lets look at a few other signatures that may serve as a “H.E.S,”…High Energy Signature. I worn the viewers that these signatures were made by experienced signature specialists who know how to use a Sharpie. Boom!
And lets see how the Ambassador of rock lays down his energy sig! Boom!!!
So I wandered over to the Edelrid booth where Tommy Caldwell was signing posters; of Tommy doing some amazing sick crazy wild climbing thing of course! He sat there like Sean Connery with a pipe. Gazing distant, and reflecting aloud his wild adventurous tales to the masses (I think there were two people in the poster line).
It was good to see my old friend Sean, I mean Tommy, and I shared with him my concerns with Kevin’s low energy signature. I asked if maybe the Dawn Wall was not enough of a challenge for Tommy and Kevin, and maybe the Dawn Wall ascent could be bettered? In my mind Kevin was already at his max, especially if he looked for outside energy (Duracell) to get him through the crux. I personally remember doing that crux in my Teva’s, cough….but anyways,…So I told Tommy of my brilliant idea to better the Dawn Wall ascent, by accomplishing the first Dawn Wall down climb. Tommy agreed that it would be a difficult task, and like a king with ultimate wisdom……, passed the challenge on to Kevin.
Immediately Kevin and I are working out the moves. I wanted to do the down climb in an afternoon push, but Kevin insisted that headlamps that are powered by Duracell Quantum batteries (available in 8 pack, 16 pack, and 32 pack in a store near you) must be used on the ascent. We are going to attempt it again next summer at the OR show. Not the climb, the energy signature improvement! :)
Actually when accompanying the Jorgeson signature with a pre title, the Jorgeson signature brings out the High Energy!
On the outdoor court Vibram was on the street corner having a “Fastest Throw contest” with their Vibram Disc Golf frisbees!!! Neo got 51mph and Jaime got 45mph and the daily winning throw was around 71mph. I got 0mph since my old age wisdom told me to save the elbow for climbing. Vibram once again hooked up the museum team with an amazing lunch, fun schwag, and two styles of Golf Discs for the museum. Thanks Vibram for all of the fun!
At the DMM booth there were many new toys to play with. I totally love the Vault wire and Vault lock Ice Carabiner. It screws to the harness to keep stationary and upright and serves as a ice screw holder. DMM also was showing a new larger Revolver (carabiner pulley). At the booth I was talking to a DMM rep from Wales and he suddenly told me he has a gift for me. This was the first time I met him and just like that he hands me a complete carabiner progression of the DMM Chimera carabiner. I became speechless and like almost fainted on the spot from such a great gift, and I still can’t stop smiling on what I received. This is the greatest item I brought home from the show and I got it from just putting my hands out. THANKS DMM!!!!! It just seemed too easy like he knew I was going to be at the show or something. Maybe Stephane Pennequin had something to do with this….hmmmm……So I scored the carabiner progression and the rep showed me other progressions he had with him, that he kept for his travels. Very fun!
While I was in the Wild Country/Salewa booth, I noticed this little shoe that was sitting on the Salewa front desk. The rep I was talking to about it was saying that it was last years catalog and like its no big deal. (“NO BIG DEAL!!!”….I thought to myself as I held the facial composure that he was right and it was no big deal so he can just hand that no big deal item to the museum). But it wasn’t that easy and the rep held me at bay not giving up the shoe until Kurt Smith walked into the booth and said hello to me. I quickly whipped out two photos of Kurt climbing Sphinx crack 5.13 and asked for a signature. With a big smile the rep gave me the Salewa shoe and said enjoy. I totally love how the whole catalog is in digital hidden within this little shoe. This little item is a great score for the museum! Also thanks Kurt!
At the end of the show Tendon donated their big roll of Tendon rope samples to the museum. Accompanied with the Tendon catalog these rope samples are great for historical reference. Big THANKS Tendon for your support. Also Tendon wins #1 for the best climbing company ‘pen’ offered to the public at this 2016 show.
Butora hooked up Jaime with a pair of complementary shoes, and I scored a half shoe sample and handful of stickers. Thanks Butora!
Scarpa hooked me up with a slat wall Logo shoe holder which I am psyched to have! I love the company product display fixtures.
Paul Robinson was hanging out in the Asana booth and I brought along a special photo for him to sign. This photo is from the spring/summer 2017 Prana catalog listing him as a ambassador of the company. Heres a guy that is sending like all of the hard “V” boulder problems in the world, and the photo of him is climbing a V0 playground structure in New York. He says he feels so degraded and I could not help myself to rub it in with a signature! I like how in the photo Paul’s facial features have the same crunched look if he is sending V15+ or this VO. Paul is coming out with a new climbing movie sometime January 2017. Sweet!
While in the Asana booth I noticed a little rivalry happening at the show with simple message advertising. Asana is Bouldering! But then looking at Sterling ropes, their message is Bouldering is Dumb! Game on ding ding! But Sterling digs their superiority deeper by handing out very cool Chris Sharma shirts to the crowd.
Metolius keeps cranking out new amazing climbing holds, and at this show they came up with an even more unique hold made of aluminum. For collectors these holds are totally awesome! I can’t wait to see how they perform at the gym, and the customer reaction and feedback. For climbing holds I give Metolius #1 at the show for their unique new aluminum holds, but also the hold I wanted to take home the most from the show was the very Large Metolius Joey Hold. The runner up was Asana. I got a signature from Metolius master designer Doug Phillips, and saw some of my old friends Brian and Josh.
Neo looking good in the Red Chili booth. Red Chili has a new 2 piece bouldering brush set they had at the show but not available in the USA yet.
I was walking down the main isle and this familiar looking kid was acting like she was velcro’d to the carpet, within a crowd of many. This is Ellie Farmer, daughter of Rachael and Zak Farmer from Flagstaff AZ.
Time to take a moment to see what the stars are up to:
I first saw the Sublime bush at the Queen Creek Boulder comp in the raffle, and even though I purchased $18.00 in tickets, I still lost the brush. Now at the show the brushes are here by the bunches. I purchased my two Sublime brushes through the Access Fund to show my support. A thinner style brush will be out soon, and a new removable bristle style brush will also soon hit the market.
A few more things:
Krieg chalk bags has sponsored me for years and John Krieg at the show designed their newest chalk bag, which will soon be for sale. The Karabin Climbing Museum Mixed Nuts chalk bag! A great gift item for the holidays for sure! What an awesome chalk bag! The best in the whole wide world! Thanks Sam and John!!!
Well that’s the show! And let me give an additional huge THANKS to the many hundreds of other people I shared laughs with during this 2016 summer OR show. It was really fun!!!!! The Mixed Nuts display is presently at the Phoenix Rock Gym upstairs in the old store (new Museum space!!).
PsicoBloc 2016 review will be posted soon……..
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Aug 21, 2016 - 11:48pm PT
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Exceptional report my friend, as usual with you Marty...! Thank you very much for sharing your visit to the show with us. You are my "plane ticket" to Salt Lake City...
With very best wishes from Corsica,
Stéphane
PS: what about the new Alien Revo... ;-)
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2016 - 11:12pm PT
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase:
I am not upset with your statement and I agree that it raises a good question to the community: “Should memorial plaques be allowed to be placed in climbing areas?”
I am proud of you for you not changing your words on this thread. This thread is all about growth. I love how you share with others your fun feelings and your frustrated feelings and you are okay with it because you are just human. Being human is a tough thing for most people and you just showed yourself that you are conscious, and this is what makes you great. And to add that I will personally say, “I believe you are great!”
Yes many people getting hurt climbing these days in the gyms and in the outdoors. This world has become distracted with devices and the personal need to be constantly gaining information in one way or another. It is amazing how uncomfortable people feel standing at a street corner having nothing to do as they wait 45 seconds for the light to change. If the phone is not in the hand a person feels disconnected in a panic way. I know why so many climbers are getting hurt because the distractions are programmed in to the adventure through “habit,” to overcome boredom or just “having” to be still. Through most of my climbing years I lucked out by having only one climbing partner with me on the climbing days. These days if you have three or more people on a climbing trip and you are on lead, you already know that your belayer will be constantly distracted. And any time you ask your belayer for anything, the first reply will always be….”WHAT?”
Ken Nichols…….…hmmmm…..…I understand your anger!
…and still this many years later……….…..wow!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2016 - 11:15pm PT
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Dingus Milktoast and nutstory....Thanks for the energy!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 27, 2016 - 01:56am PT
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,!! , no need for the nodThanx Marty, I'm a big a fan of stuff, just can't be a master of the display in the way you are!
No one is In to this, more than you, we love to see it too.
Thank you it is clear that you share the stoke! We are a bunch of Mixed Nuts!
I wanted to speak from that place that so many of us come from.
From the place where less and less climbers get their start.
It was dusty, dirty and got dark fast at night. We slept deeply in the dirt,
Remember brushing your teeth off the back bumper of your truck?
I remember having to do a pee-pee dance because a family, seeing our group of camped riggs, had popped up and camped right next to us (by mistake in the dark )
All the little things .... Keeping everything in its own bag - bottle caps in a bag?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2016 - 03:54pm PT
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"I wanted to speak from that place that so many of us come from.
From the place where less and less climbers get their start.
It was dusty, dirty and got dark fast at night. We slept deeply in the dirt,
Remember brushing your teeth off the back bumper of your truck?
Gnome Ofthe Diabase: Those were the days when I was a true hero to myself! I climbed because I wanted to and nobody needed to be informed of my 5.0 and 5.13 victories! My victories didn't make me, they were just there for that moment of adventure! Those were great days!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2016 - 04:03pm PT
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Just received a handful of the new Aluminum Metolius Mini Tech Foot Holds.
A few for the museum and a few for the customers to check out at the Phoenix Rock Gym
Presently there are 5 different shapes and 5 different colors available.
I set a route up the slab at the rock gym with these Mini Tech Foot Holds and I am amazed on how well the shoes stick to them. A little pricey but very unique.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2016 - 09:17pm PT
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Found the last Sasha DiGiulian card I was missing and it came from China.
Sasha DiGiulian Lady Luck black mini #11/25
So I believe I have the full set of 22 cards.
Sasha DiGiulian 2016 Upper Deck Goodwin Champions
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2016 - 08:14pm PT
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
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Hmmm, which shoe should I wear? These are Five Ten shoe samples from the early 2000s, donated to the Karabin Climbing Museum by Chuck Blackwell. One of each different shoe. I built a display box for them, but now it looks like I need a much bigger display box. Huge THANKS again Chuck!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2016 - 10:20pm PT
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Big THANKS to Five Ten for sending me the red Stealth rubber sample disc, and just in time for the Five Ten shoe display that I am creating for the Phoenix Rock Gym. The display shows 50 different shoes and 80 different Five Ten stickers, and the Stealth sample disc set. For now I am prepping the display shoes, stuffing them etc, and figuring out how to attach the shoes to the display boards. Good Times!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2016 - 05:57pm PT
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1985 to present, qty 86 different Five Ten stickers
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 18, 2016 - 08:24pm PT
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FIVE TEN shoe/sticker display
First job was stuffing the shoes with paper so they would hold their display shape better, and retying the shoe lace bows. Steel wire was needed to attach the shoes to the boards so they would not slip out of place. The stickers were placed in baseball card holders to keep them mint condition, then taped to the display case glass. The display is going into the Phoenix Rock Gym so the main issue is keeping chalk dust out to he interior of the case. So thick clear tape is placed first on the wall where the display case frame will touch, then after the frame is attached, the interior of the frame is taped between the wood frame and to the tape on the wall. Three shoe display boards are slipped into place and the glass is perfectly fit sandwiching and protecting everything within. Clear tape then is added to the display case front placed on the glass and wood frame to presvent chalk dust from entering from the front of the display case.
I love how these cool projects just fall together perfectly! Big THANKS Five Ten for the fun! Sorry but the photos below of the display have a lot of glass reflection. I will attempt to get a cleaner photo!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2016 - 09:39pm PT
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After years of dedication to my sponsor, Planetary Climbing holds hooks me up with a banner, and a few Planetary Climbing stickers! Already stuck a Planetary sticker on my ride to represent! Thanks Justin!
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2016 - 09:51pm PT
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Access Fund Reel Rock 11 Sneak Preview Party 8/2016
During the August Outdoor Retailer show we were able to score tickets to the Access Fund Sneak Preview of the Reel Rock Tour 11. The Access Fund totally hooked us up with tickets and schwag, and beer and food, and ..and …and! Big THANKS Access Fund! It was a great time talking to the climbing talent, and the producers of the films.
At the August Sneak Preview party it showed a shorter version of the Reel Rock Tour. Tonight in Tempe AZ I am seeing the tour in its entirety, Psyched!!!! For what I have seen so far the films are amazing especially the boat Baffin Island film. I give a big APPLAUSE to the film producers and the many mind twisting hours it takes to create these exciting films. Also a big APPLAUSE goes to the Sponsors, the climbing talent and their helpers.
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