Nutcracker mantel

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BASE104

climber

An Oil Field

Feb 12, 2012 - 08:05pm PT

Bachar must have been looking for some lost treasure to bother with soloing the Buttcracker.

I dunno. Maybe it is because I am getting old and feeble. Stuff a damn bolt at the mantle kind of like tossing a bolt in Double Cross.

Yeah, I know. But still. Climbing has changed. It is now a mass market sport.

dfinnecy

Social climber

'stralia

Feb 12, 2012 - 08:35pm PT

Can't you get a little tcu in there somewhere high in the corner but it blocks the hold?

That mantle has given me a scare every time, I always have this mental image rolling down the slab below,...

But like many things, once you commit it isn't bad.

WBraun

climber

Feb 12, 2012 - 09:07pm PT

Bachar must have been looking for some lost treasure to bother with soloing the Buttcracker.

No routes like that we usually soled on rest days or if we were crippled ....

micronut

Trad climber

Feb 13, 2012 - 02:26am PT

I love me some Nutcracker.

I like to mantul the last move on the root. You know, fer style points.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Feb 13, 2012 - 02:28am PT

The "Nutcracker Mantle Appreciation Thread".

donini must be just loving it.

bvb

Social climber

flagstaff arizona

Feb 13, 2012 - 03:42am PT

Given the recent dismissals of a small number of pathologically hostile and utterly inscrutable intardwebz characters who tended to clutter the forum with tens upon tens upon tens of thousands of belligerent and toxic posts, I note with great pleasure that we can now all enjoy a perfectly entertaining discussion about a silly little 5.7 move on a historic and high-quality Yosemite climb. Imagine!

Thanks, CMac. Not sure what motivated you to step in and engage in a bit of pro-active dictatorial tweaking, but the positive repercussions are becoming more and more self-evident with ever passing hour.

Cheers,

Bob Van Belle

ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Trad climber

San Francisco, Ca

Jun 24, 2012 - 09:31pm PT

When I first saw this thread I had no memory of the mantel- I thought the the sketch mantel was on the 5.8ish face climbing if one goes right and then back left on the 5.8 bulge pitch instead of straight left.

Anyway, DL and I hopped on this rig a couple of weeks ago. We get to the last pitch and, based on my memories, I tell him it's like 5.6. He of course fires it. It felt super hard on the follow- the mantel felt pretty tough and my passing was, uh, ugly.

I told my (now) wife about the foregoing and she told me that when she and I climbed the route (circa mid to late 90s) I was swinging around from the mantel and making jokes! My how things change!!