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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 29, 2009 - 02:32am PT
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The team did Intifada last year, which they thought was a better line ("THE LINE" he says).
He's a mechanic for racing motorcycles in Spain, and apparently uses jingus motorcycle parts for aid? Not clear on that part. His only fall was on the first piece off the ground, one of these motorcycle rivets apparently? No idea what's up with that, just reading the interview.
He bolted in one section on lead (didn't have a drill or bolt, so had to run to Moab to get it).
No bolts in any of the anchors. He says they couldn't have rapped if something went wrong or they got the snail eye because they didn't trust the anchors? That doesn't make much sense.
13 days total. Fixed 3 pitches. After that, seven days to climb 300 meters. Topped out in rain.
My bullshit radar was redlining for much of what I was reading, but who knows?
One of the exchanges --
Interviewer: ¿La vía en artifo más difícil del mundo? ¿Y abierta por un no-americano?
(The hardest aid line in the world? And put up by a non-American?)
Climber: ¡Joder! ¡Y que culpa tengo yo si a la peña no le da por el artifo extremo! A mi me apasiona, y las (Torres) Fishers me hechizan…
(F#ck! It's not my fault if nobody's into extreme aid! It fires me up, and the Fishers bewitch me...)
Hrrrmmm. As the wise man says, Quien sabe?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Aug 31, 2009 - 07:33pm PT
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"He says they couldn't have rapped if something went wrong or they got the snail eye because they didn't trust the anchors?
....13 days total. Fixed 3 pitches."
So, how does that work. You are afraid to rap on your anchors, but hanging your ledge, and all that crap from those "death anchors" is OK. hahahaha
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Ed Bannister
Mountain climber
Riverside, CA
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Aug 31, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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Russ and Werner,
you guys have missed it!
A6 PLUS is when your cameraman falls
and kills someone on the ground.
Katherine Desnivel?
a self promotional circus all unto herself.
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tonesfrommars
climber
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A6 is when you drag the contents of your entire f&#king garage up some A5: ten foot pole for taking pictures, your TEDDY BEAR, four extra pair of lycra pants, the sun umbrella, pots and pans... you get the idea.
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dogtown
Gym climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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No Rurp’s no A6. And no A5. Go figure? LOL.
Nice too hear from you MS.
Bruce.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Hey, parasols are what the smart wall folks bring to stave off dehydration and sunburn - lighter and more convenient than extra water. Maybe she got the idea from Melissa:
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seamus mcshane
climber
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To quote Stevie Haston,
"Do you really think I couldn't A5 if I wanted to?" ;)
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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I am pretty sure that there was a hook belay on Zenyatta. There was a bolt about ten feet above it. Buddy of mine did a really early ascent. The hooks were supposedly bomber.....
I have never climbed in the Fishers, either. But my bud also said that when you scrape the crap off, the rock is actually really hard. So you can head the stuff.
All this second hand info....
A6+? Who cares if you think it is bogus? Wait on a repeat.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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I guess the difficulty vs. fall potential thing has never clicked.
In keeping with the spirit of the latter...
I vote A6 = no rope w/ daisies
A6+ = same as above, but daisies are adjustable
A7 = No rope no daisies
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jeremy, a MUDD GANGSTA like you NEEDS to get to the bottom of this issue...armchair climbers NEED TO KNOW!!!!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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To be a real A6, not only will the belay anchors not hold a fall, but the impact of you hitting the belay anchors must result in something like a million cubic meter rockfall, or say, the whole tower toppling over and squashing not only your corpse but all the tourons at the base and hundreds of meters beyond in any direction.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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I like Mel's scale. Makes me feel like a badass, as I've done all of those. hahaha Funny, I didn't feel that hard when I did them tho. Is no rope w/ adj. daisies up the first 4 of LT really A6+? I call her version of A7 soloing. :)
Are those outfits like the modern equivelant of Euro tights or something? They look just as silly as the tights did. I'm glad I missed out on the whole tights thing. I jsut can't help but laugh when I think of them getting up in the morning and putting on their climbing "outfits" to go climb. hahahaha
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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it's A.6 because they did not have peckers! (either the pin or the trouser version)
since I have 7 #1's, 5 #2's (on order), and 5 #3's (again, on order) combined with Jeremy's rack (less that foul #3) we should be set (maybe a few more toucans).
I'm bringin' the freezer for the shrimp and "mimosa" mixin's.
now for the thai server girls mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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them tight ass Euro grape smugglers he's wearin sure is purdy!
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Help me out on this one, big-wallers out there, please. The second 'biner in from the right of the pic looks loaded on the tri-axis AND gate/nose--what purpose could this possibly serve (in this complex system), low load break-away shock absorber?
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Me and Klaus would crack that sham off in about 3 hours. Toss Gagner into the mix, and it's down to 2:40 with beers at the belays. I'm seeing bolts and showboating.
Next......
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Gagner is old enough to be my father.....
Me and Klaus will take care of the heavy lifting..... poor old guy.... we'll save him the summit pitch.
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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if we can pry Eric away from his knife collection....
Russ, that means you're in?
dates?
I can get Condor and he pals with Coomer (on the wagon?).
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