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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 30, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Wasn't one of those overpass lead jobs on the cover of Climbing?
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goatboy smellz
climber
लघिमा, co
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Jul 30, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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I’m just glad I live in Colorado and can climb on real rock and never had to resort to this type of glue slaphappy bullshit…
runs for cover dive, dive :)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 30, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
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We may have done the PC-7 thing somewhere in this vicinity back in the early 90's (before the first gym opened here). By the time the smoke cleared, we may have had like 220 feet of traversing. It was amazing how quickly the word spread, considering if we had done something like that, we wouldn't have told anyone about it. Few weeks passed and we'd see more people we didn't even know (allegedly). We may have even seen Dave Sobocan traversing down there one day, going 'round and 'round. He (may have) asked my friend Scott, "What's the record for laps on this?" And Scott, who found the notion of someone wanting to set a record doing that sort of thing sort of silly (might have) answered, "Whatever you do today... THAT'S the record!" I bet he still holds it.
There may still be rocks down there, if one was to traverse under that particular tunnel, even though it has since been augmented with a bike path. I've heard that occasionally, rocks would snap off while someone was weighting them, but more often than not, it was the surface of the concrete giving way rather than the glue. I might have even started putting holds on the ceiling made of pieces of 4x4 drilled with finger pockets, until I decided hanging upside down on that horizontal surface relying on glue and potentially untrustworthy concrete wasn't such a good idea. Ahhhhh...those were the days... if I hadn't made all that up.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jul 30, 2009 - 11:39pm PT
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did someone say pork chops?
or was that chop-suey?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 30, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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RIP Jamboree wall.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 12:20am PT
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YESH!!!!
thx for posting up that pic. Hadn't been down there since, well forever (seeing as I iz old. ;) ). I learned at that place that i could actually climb inverted for 40' if I had the moves wired (at the time).
god that brings back memories. me, nappy, Gary Yosh, and Bob C. and other heads from ray coop would jam down there after closing to do a couple laps before we lost all summer daylight and I had to do the long drive back to the circle city.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:27am PT
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Epoxy Wall in Woodfords Canyon. Put up by Dan Osman. As of last year the holds are still holding
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:35am PT
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is that a quarry?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City
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Jul 31, 2009 - 01:47am PT
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If you are referring to epoxy wall....no. Its a very large portion of a cliff that calved off. What was left was an overhung blank wall and the boulder Big Bertha and the bottom of the hill.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
nowhere, I'm headed for certain doom
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Grid chop everything......No holds for miles!
It's the only way to be sure.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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"He did it to spite me, since he thought I chopped his hack job nearby, but it was chopped by JA, since we all hated Louie for ripping off Todd Gordon's gear and guide book "
Once a thief, always a thief...
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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I guess you fall into the same boat as the OP in this one Craig, as I didn't chop the holds. In fact that one was one of my favorites on the bridge circuit. I never knew it was yours - I thought Dan made it.
And I think your first staircase pic is of Mr. McQuade.
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Pistol Pete
Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
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Anybody know of any old glue-ups in Pasadena? Heard that Hans Florine put one up near the 210, maybe Colorado bridge?
Peace,
Pete
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JMC
climber
oilfields of Sumatra
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Pasadena glue-ups are long since deceased. The 210 by Devil's Gate dam is/was the "best sport climbing in So Cal" mentioned earlier in the thread, but CalTras jackboots expired these lines I think the roof holds are still there? Traverses and short routes under New York St. bridge in Eaton canyon are well past their prime - mix of PC-7 and bad epoxy has left many holds gone, combined with vandalism and changing elevation of the riverbed. Some thin nailing on the fractures is all that's left. Out in Sylmar/Lakeview Terrace, there is (well, 4 years ago...) a glue-up traverse under the 210 where it crosses the Tujunga wash done by Rex Pieper and ?. Also is/was a sport line on the other 210 overpass of Tujunga Cyn, but has long since been taken over by a homeless compound complete with territorial dogs.
Oh wait, one more - off of Angeles Crest Hwy below the La Canada golf course, south side of road, a glue-up traverse on the retaining wall. Last visited ~7 years ago.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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So is Adams and Hamilton still in existence?
I seem to recall Hart Park was somewhat still there, but lots had broken off. (not including the original concrete retaining wall)
One of my climbing bros at Hart Park all BITD...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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HAY!
Now I recognize that dude.
(AKA Rookie of the Year, '78)
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GDavis
Trad climber
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If someone chips a hold on a chosspile in the middle of the desert and no one is around to bitch about it on the internet, did it really happen?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Every choss is sacred.
Every choss is pure.
(...and that was my call on the tutu. Idea man never gets an'y cred. execution is everything huh)
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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You used to lead at the Oak Grove bridge in Pasadena
until Caltrans chopped it
Edit: yeah... Arroyo Seco... (same bridge, that was the exit)
also Bret did the Sports Chalet, Comp. that David Lee Roth came to?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there dr.F... and say, russ... how very neat!
thanks for all this neat history... wow, knowing my brothers, and such---i could imagine them wanting to do this, even as little kids--- haha, though not having access to proper glue...
good thing they lasted through some of their other adventures...
and say:
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath, as to your quote:
"Pick up rock off ground, apply epoxy, stick to wall. Repeat. Presto! A climb!
And then Gawd created gyms and woodies and climbers no longer snuck around under freeways trying to get a pump."
how very inventive and inginuety-grounded for to become ungrounded and free to climb... wow...
*i bet some of the guys missed the sneaky days though... ;)
wow---i really leaarned some neat history here, all... thanks for the share...
i'm surprised that there were not more major confrontations, than just caltran getting upset at you all...
well, all for now... carry on...
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