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Geographer
Novice climber
Fresno, Ottawa/Canada
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2002 - 03:45am PT
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Last time I checked Fres-no was in Cali-forn-ia.
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Bob Shaftoe
Intermediate climber
Salt Lake City, Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2002 - 03:46am PT
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Cali-forn-ia, except Fresno.
Load up the truck and move to Yo-sem-itee.
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The Black Bears
Advanced climber
Tacoing the door of a Toyota van
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2002 - 04:00am PT
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Yes!
Move to Yos there are many affordable caves in the boulders and since Cary Stayner was captured, crime (except for the occassional ice chest torn from a car) is way down. No six-figure jobs here or five figure jobs for that matter, but all the cliffs are in easy walking distance, though you should still bring your car because it's a good place to store food and stuff. Grrr.
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radical
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2002 - 04:12am PT
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He said the world you freaken yokels'..Damn ethnocentric Americans.
Did somebody actually say San Deigo??? What the "F" .....It's like 2.5 hours minimum to anything good. You can only climb Robbins crack so many times.
The best place for everything...In the whole wide world....Climbing, Alpine, trad, ice climbing, skiing, snow boarding, big mountains, culture, bars, drinking.............and women, from around the world, every night............. is.........drum roll please.......
Chamonix, France........in my opinion anyway
But the best place to live, when just rock climbing, is generally considered to be Yosemite by most people I have met in the world.
Vancouver is a real nice city also Salt Lake City kicks ass on all levels, except they got religion..
Boulder sounds awsome
oh ya, Canmore kicks ass too
Bishop is awesome but hot
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Charlie
Novice climber
Berkeley
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2002 - 09:33pm PT
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The Bronx, New York. I have to move there in three days and it's got to be the best place to live. Well, the Gunks are only a little over an hour away in New Paltz.
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Michelle
Novice climber
a small town
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Aug 24, 2002 - 11:24pm PT
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No worries dude.. I like my small town and no matter what kind of atmosphere, and I'm sure you're right about it down there in Fresno, it doesn't take away the fact that a small town has less PEOPLE, a bonus in my opinion. A 6 figure income is meaningless to me, and since I own my own home, I don't need a big paycheck to support a mortgage. I already have a short drive to the park and plenty of multipitch climbing close to my job and home. Have you gotten a lot of crap or what about living there to have to be so darn sensitive about it because that isn't what I meant. You did, however, answer the question posed to you. On second thought, maybe I WILL go there after all, since you made it sound so appealing. Can I crash at your place for a while?
=p
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nathan
Novice climber
slt
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Aug 25, 2002 - 12:31am PT
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I moved to South Tahoe from Salt Lake many moons ago. Both have their good and bad points, but Tahoe is better for really close after work kinda climbing. And you can climb nearly all winter in Tahoe (or close by)if you are creative. BUT...
If I had it all to do over again, I'd look closely at Gardnerville Nevada. Milder winters, cheaper housing, close climbing (though most of the *really* close stuff is not in guidebooks), many other outdoor sports, it has lots of advantages. Look on a map. Of course the touron-overrun, bear-infested, Nazi Ranger contolled Valley is kinda far away in winter, but you might not even notice.
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Copperhead
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2002 - 12:36am PT
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Nevada kicks ass!
(but don't move here)
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NYC
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2002 - 12:45am PT
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Hey charlie the gunks are great, good bouldering too. some bouldering in NYC, but I hear rumors of mixed ice routes in FT Tryon park..(in NYC!!) check it out. NO BS...
By the way Adirondacks!!!!!!!!! Granite and awsome ice.
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Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2002 - 12:46am PT
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Squamish???
Rain I know but BC???
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AK
Intermediate climber
California
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2002 - 11:16am PT
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I have lived in both CA and CO, these would be my picks
For CA: Bishop-Very close Bouldering 10min away, High Sierras within an hour, Yosemite/Toulomne afew hours with roads open
For CO: Boulder
-5-10 minutes to bouldering 100's or routes(Flagstaff, Mt. Sanitas)
-10 minutes from Eldo over 1000 routes on Conglomerate Sandstone (trad-up to 8 pitches) some approach times are 30 seconds from the parking lot
-20 minutes to the Flatirons (long, easy multiputch up to 10 pitches)
-20-30 minutes Boulder Canyon (Sport, Trad, Aid, Bouldering and Winter Ice Climbing)
-30 minutes to Table Mtn. (Golden Cliffs) Easy/Hard sport
-45 minutes(Lumpy Ridge, RMNP-Alpine (long moderates, big walls, mixed, waterice, alpine ice)
-1-3 hours (Shelf Road, 1000's of peaks 12-14000+ ft peaks,
Vail-WaterIce, Mixed, backcountry skiing
Mt. Lincoln-Multipitch Waterice
Horsetooth Res. Ft. COllins
Veadawvo(sp.?), WY Offwidths, Chimneys
I think I'll stop here, forgive me if I din't list one of the other many popular climbing areas within 1 hour from Boulder
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Climber from Switzerland
Intermediate climber
Luzern, Switzerland
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2002 - 06:04pm PT
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Since the original questions included also the country where to live and climb, I would suggest Switzerland.
I live close to Luzern and I have so many climbing arias to choose from that it is hard to keep the overview. How about a multi pitch climb after work? Leaving work after 4 pm, climbing 6 pitch of 5.11, back at the base by 9:30. Lime stone. You like granit better? No problem. 30 minutes drive and you have all you can wish. Not just sport climbing, lots of adventure climbing as well, if you like to place gear. Mountaineering, Ice climbing and all other games are possible within one or two hours of driving or even using public transport. Overall a good place also for other outdoor sports. Just one thing you have to get used too: Shops are closed after 18:30 pm. So you better get your grocery organized before your climbing trip .. ;-)
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bo
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2002 - 12:45pm PT
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I've lived in Utah, Boulder and Fresno, and they're all very good places to be a climber. Utah is about the most amazing state in the country and it pisses me off when people tweak out jsut because Mormons live there. They're surprisingly friendly folks, if you ever get a chance to talk to one, and when I lived there it didn't make any difference to me what everyone else was doing. And don't be an ass just because there's only 3.2 beer in the state. Boulder has the have the most and best climbing closeby, but it's also peopled with rich, competitive as#@&%es. Ten years ago Boulder ruled-now it's a goddamn feeding frenzy. PAss on Boulder until the next big influenza plague wipes out a few. And I heard the Fresno gangland stories before I moved. They're not true in the slightest. The air is bad, but that's what we're all doing to this planet. (Interesting fact: 1/3 of Fresno's smog gets blown in from the eco-caring Bay Area. Good work, people.) Fresno is very affordable, leaving you more money for roadtrips/gear, and is about as close as you can get to stellar California cllmbing without living in some incestuous, jobless hole. And as for living in the Valley, don't believe it. After a month or so, paradise turns into hell- there's nothing worse, after a month of climbing, than waking up in Camp 4.
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Pin
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2002 - 01:08pm PT
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Fresno??...I still can't believe this is being proposed in a serious manner. Hell, that's like claiming that burrowing a small cave into a large fetid landfill in the middle of YV is perferable because it's close to good climbing! Ha!!..man that's too funny!..and Boulder? Get real...I wouldn't live it wannabe Berkeley East with a 7 figure income. As far as the Mormoms....lets all give to the Lake Bonneville Restoration Society....flood those do-gooders out. Sorry Bo, there is simply no excuse for intentional production of shitty brew. YYeehhawww!! Nevada and Eastern CA are still far superior...if you don't know why??...good. We'll keep it that way. Yes....naturally there are some unbelieveable locals in the Alps...been there several times. And they are nearly unbeatable....for about 3 months of the year. What the hell??..the French? Who wants to hang out with the French? The coolest people in France are the Swiss and the Italians. Whoa...I love a good rant.
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Mike
Advanced climber
Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2002 - 01:12pm PT
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Ok people, let's be honest now...is there REALLY ice climbing in Boulder Canyon? Did anything form up there last winter? And Lincoln Falls!!?? You call that ice climbing? More like ice crawling, eh? Then there's Vail! Have you guys ever gotten to actually swing a tool there? That's why you sharpen your picks, in case you actually have to make your own placements. I'm pretty sure the only good ice climbing in Colorado that isn't all pegged out is in the Ouray/Silverton area...a mere 6 hour drive....
Boulder does have a lot of rock though...so as long as you don't climb ice, it's pretty sweet.
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Rubio
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2002 - 02:05pm PT
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I'm suprised nobody's mentioned New Mexico. lots of good climbing, close to CO and UT, and absolutely no crowds. In fact, I can't remember the last time I saw a climber in this state.
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Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2002 - 02:23pm PT
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There's probably a reason for that.
I'm curious...can anyone name a single world class climbing(not bouldering) destination in NewMexico?
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Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2002 - 02:29pm PT
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Sure. There are all those walls of the mansions there built by the rich city folk from LA and NY buying up that state. I would guess many of them are 5 to 6 pitches of sustained 5.12, on imitation adobe. Much stronger than the real thing.
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jc
Novice climber
Boulder, CO
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2002 - 02:32pm PT
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NM is a good place to be if you are predominantly a sport climber/boulderer. I lived in Albuquerque for 6 years... NM has a great feel, Stone Age is a nice gym, but the trad climbing is pretty poor. The Sandias have maybe 5 good routes and Indian Creek is a 6 hour drive. That being said the sport climbing is varied and excellent: Enchanted Tower (juggy tuff), El Rito (conglomerate), The Tunnel + Sitting Bull Falls (both limestone), The Box (rhyolite), Cochiti (thin tuff), Los Alamos crags (pocketed basalt), Diablo Canyon (columnar basalt). Also, the best bouldering in N.America is 4 hours away at Hueco Tanks if you can put up with the regulations. Lots of other bouldering too.
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Novice climber
Flag, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2002 - 02:38pm PT
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Enchanted Tower is world class sport climbing. You would have to take a number to get on routes there if it were in CA or the Front Range. Check out the Guest Ranch while you're there for the best green chili cheesburgers in the southwest.
The area that just had the R+I guide printed up near Alamogordo has Rifle-esque limestone... just don't go if you're not redpointing 5.12.
Sitting Bull Falls is possibly the best limestone crag I've ever visited (I've never been to France though). Only problem is that there are only a dozen routes and its in the middle of nowhere near Carlsbad.
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