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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Mar 16, 2016 - 10:32am PT
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^^^^^^^
What Johntp said. Climbing is a team activity. His friends on the ground should have informed him that both ends of the rope didn't reach the ground.
Once we got the rope stuck on rappel and I had to climb back up to free it. By the time I was ready to rappel it was pitch dark. I asked my friend on the ground if both ends were on the ground and he said "yes." About forty feet off the deck I felt one end of the rope going through my hand. "Shit!" Luckily, my instinct was to grab tighter and I saved myself from taking the ride.
When I had finally remedied the situation and got down my partner admitted that he was talking to someone else and not really paying attention. He was totally freaked out by what had almost happened and quit climbing soon after.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 16, 2016 - 10:41am PT
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So very sad in this we are all reflected, don't let complacency or over- confidence creep up on the routine.
Keep your focus if it is not with you stop and triple check, go over the steps even after the scary cross over is completed,
check six times
Anchors
knots
Device,
redundant safety
or have some one on the ground hold the ends, always tie knots,
if it is windy clip them to your harness and carry the ends down with you.
A teacher and natural at it, A mentor, and close to all he interacted with.
50 yrs old and loving life, sharing and doing the important stuff taking the lead & safe guarding
Others. His experience and dedication , the full package, all as unimportant, at that last moment,
TIE THE ENDS , KNOTTED TOGETHER! OR IN BIGHTS! TAKE THE LOOPS AND CLIP THEM TO YOUR HARNESS!
ALWAYS CHECK - THEN WEIGHT THE ROPE - AND CHECK AGAIN!
YELL DOWN TO OTHERS - ASK THEM ARE THE ENDS TIED & EVENED UP?
COMMUNICATE! LET OYHERS KNOW YOUR ON RAPPEL ASK IS EVERYTHING OK?
http://www.ksl.com/?sid=38880696&nid=148&title=man-dies-after-equipment-fails-while-rock-climbing-in-san-juan-county
**DapperD
The tendency for one end of the rope to slip thru the device while getting on the rappel seems to have been as much an issue here as not halving the rope, or tieing the ends.
V V V V
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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Mar 16, 2016 - 10:54am PT
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this is so sad .... between him not making sure he halved the rope at the anchor , not seeing that his ends were uneven as he was rappelling , and no one at the base noticing that rope ends were uneven , there is a tragedy . Three things had to go wrong at once here ...
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Mar 16, 2016 - 11:09am PT
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I'm really sorry to hear that. My condolences to family and friends.
I know that we all want to understand why. We're human - we make mistakes. We all know it. We might make a mistake too, as much as we want to deny it. We have enough information to not make mistakes, but sometimes we do anyway. If he took a chance and made a mistake - nicely lived, human! With luck we can forgive ourselves as easily.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 16, 2016 - 11:26am PT
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Very sad.
But I agree with Bruce. Donini is right about base "chatter", but that is no excuse. This was a severe partner fail.
I have climbed enough in the desert, solo and with partners, to realize what an advantage a good partner is.
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Phantom Fugitive
Social climber
Misery
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Mar 16, 2016 - 11:31am PT
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Mark Davis was 50 years old and had been climbing for 25 years with successful ascents of El Capitan and in Patagonia. He was well loved by his community in Salt Lake City and around the country. On Saturday March 12th, Mark and friends were finishing a beautiful day of climbing at Way Rambo crag in Indian Creek, Utah. Mark had finished a lead of the namesake route Way Rambo. Some requests were given for a top rope and a fixed line for a photographer, so in typical Mark fashion, he climbed the route again on top rope to swap out the ropes for others.
Now his rope would be free of the route and we could use it as needed.
Mark pulled rope through the anchors and prepared to double-rope rappel on a tube style device. 30 feet before reaching the ground, Mark fell to the ground head first, hitting once, then tumbling and hitting again. He had no external injuries or lacerations- a blunt force trauma. A rescue was launched within seconds- two groups ran to the road and five of us tended to Mark, clearing his passageway and helping him to regain breath. We wrapped his body in warm clothes, secured his head and spine, and cleared his airway. After five minutes, Marks breathing began to decline until eventually we initiated CPR that ultimately was not successful.
Upon review, it seems Mark had seen one side of his rope go behind a pillar 20 feet off the ground, and assumed it would reach. His belay device revealed only one strand threaded and the entire rope was at the base. His rope was not threaded to the ground on both sides. This is likely one the most common forms of climbing accidents and tragedies, and it happens to the best of us. Its an easy mistake to make when the rope is not visible entirely from above.
On analysis, If Mark had worn a helmet, tied a knot in the end of his rope, or used a prusik back-up, the situation may have been different.
Those of us on the rescue attempt ask others to remember to slow down, double check your ropes, double check your rappel, double check your knots, wear a helmet, and back up your rap so you can climb again tomorrow.
In lieu of flowers, memorial gifts can be made for a film student scholarship to the Salt Lake Community College Foundation, 4600 S Redwood Road, Salt Lake City UT, 84123 or for online donations -
Mention its for the Mark Davis Film Student Scholarship
https://sasbot.slcc.edu/webforms/donations/onlinegiving/donations.aspx
With Much thought,
Jeremy Collins
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Mar 16, 2016 - 11:53am PT
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My condolences to family & friends.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Mar 16, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
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Condolences to family and friends. Sounds like he was a really cool guy.
Damn I hate these rappelling accidents.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 16, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
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Mark taught one of the first classes I took at Salt Lake Community College. He was awesome with students, and everyone loved him. I dedicated my weekend of climbing in the desert this past weekend to him, and left him a note in a summit register atop the Witch. RIP Mark
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 16, 2016 - 02:36pm PT
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Thank you, Jeremy and Shiho.
What a horrible situation to be thrust into, Jeremy.
Or to experience the loss of a close friend, Shiho.
As for lessons, Jim's "eternal vigilance" on rappels seems most appropriate to me.
As Jeremy described, it was one of those situations where neither the rappeller or partner(s) could see if both ends of the rope reached.
Here are some options in this situation (where one end is in a crack and not visible):
 talk to your partner on the ground. Even though one end is not visible, the other end is probably in a pile on the ground. Have your partner watch the visible end while you pull more rope through the anchor, and they let you know when that end is just about to leave the ground.
pull up the hidden strand and throw it a second time, more out from the wall this time
the rapper could do a brute force equalization by pulling up both ends and putting both ends of the rope together when setting up the rappel
if you are "pretty sure they reach": rap down partway until both ends are visible, and be prepared to equalize them on rappel by letting one strand go through the ATC while the other is blocked.
I'm sure Mark Davis had probably dealt with this sort of thing many times. But probably some complication caused him to lose focus. Maybe his lead rope, that he was originally belayed on, was a distraction. It was probably hanging down from his harness while he rappelled on the second rope.
Rappel risks and various solutions are discussed in these extensive threads:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2040046/Surviving-Sedona-January-8th-is-my-new-second-birthday
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2640145/The-85th-rappel
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2609985/How-to-die-rappelling
http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/mark-davis-dies-in-tragic-rappelling-accident-at-indian-creek-utah
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 16, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
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I hate hearing about these kinds of accidents, for the same reasons we all do. There is also a huge "there but for the grace of god go I" element as well.
I've done a fair bit of climbing over the years, with all the rappelling that comes with that, and some of my biggest frights have come during rappels. Not close calls, never had one (with the exception of some unavoidably dicey anchors) but just pure simple fear. I'm the guy who will stand there for a good five minutes or longer, all set up and ready to go, before committing to the rap. This is especially true in the Canyonlands. I'll sit there and stare at the anchor, look down to see where the ropes are and if they are evened up, make sure the knots are evened-up and close to the anchor if it's a two rope rap, and then look at my harness and the rope going through whatever rap device I'm using and then back to the anchor again, absolutely convinced every time that something is gonna go wrong. And once I do start the rap I'll have one hand above the rap device ready to grab if something goes wrong. I've abandoned more gear than I care to count backing up anchors I did not like, and endured many bothersome descents on foot rather than rap. And again, in the Canyonlands, pretty much every series of raps I've done to get off towers felt like my last moments on earth. My partners have noted this over the decades and I've been made much fun of, especially when you consider that when actually *climbing* I would go for all kinds of goofy and risky stuff. I get the same stomach churning anxiety rappelling that I get doing hanging belays off anchors I don't trust.
Don't know where I'm going with all that, I feel awful for everyone affected by this.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 16, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
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So sad. could happen to anyone regardless of how good they think they are.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Mar 16, 2016 - 06:57pm PT
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First - sorry to hear about this, the scene at the base is horrible to read about.
“If Mark had worn a helmet, tied a knot in the end of his rope, or used a prussik back-up, the situation may have been different.”
^^ From the R&I article - followed right up by a listing of stories by people who claim a helmet saved their lives.
Thing is, I know scant few who wear helmets to go TR something, tie knots in the ends of a rope when you can visibly see it touch the ground, and prussiks are generally considered overkill in a situation like this as well - 1 pitch, no pack/haulbag etc.
I think these oversimplified platitudes are annoying, and are a real disservice to new climbers, and disrespectful to the survivors, IMO. They basically paint the victim as dumb, careless and the mistake as something obvious and avoidable to even the rank beginners whose stories follow on the R&I site. Of course it was.
All I have to add here is - I've been around this sport long enough - if you really think it's that simple to avoid accidents and injury - you're next.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 16, 2016 - 07:07pm PT
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So sad. could happen to anyone regardless of how good they think they are.
Agreed. Condolences to all involved.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Mar 16, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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How very sad. My condolences to all.
This is now the second time in how few days that someone has rapped off the end of his rope to his death?
1) GriGri in Zion, single rope
2) Double rope rappel, one end not reaching the ground
In both instances, there were no knots in the end[s] of the rope[s]. Please be careful.
I am not so callous as to say "always tie a knot in the end of your rope" because I sometimes rappel with no knot. Why? Because I sometimes consider the risk of forgetting to untie the knot - and it later jamming during pulldown - greater than the risk of rapping off the end of the rope, because I am using a Grigri.
At any rate, I am always keenly aware of my where my rope end[s] are, and what condition they are in [knotted, unknotted, free-hanging, etc]. Rappelling terrifies me. It is extraordinarily dangerous.
Always be careful.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Mar 16, 2016 - 07:45pm PT
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Back in the '70s I climbed with a guy named Ken.
One time we decided to go to Zion and crag on the Practice Cliffs. He scrambled around to the top and I stood out from the base so he would know where to set up a toprope.
He threw down the rope. I tied in. He took up the slack and told me I was on belay. I climbed 20' and started to flail. I warned Ken that I was about to fall, then a second later I fell.
Much to my surprise I dropped to the ground and looked up to see a rock 2' across headed right for me. I was barely able to jump clear.
Ken explained that he thought I was a good climber and unlikely to fall so he hadn't even anchored himself. When he felt the fall he let go.
I never climbed with that idiot again.
Yes, I am very sorry for this guy's friends and family, but this IS the time and place for a teachable moment.
No matter how well the partners performed CPR they could have avoided this by looking out for each other and not just thinking that he is a good enough climber not to fall.
Partner fail. No team work.
I'd rather solo than have a partner who doesn't look out for me.
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Aerili
climber
Project Y
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Mar 16, 2016 - 08:23pm PT
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Thanks for the info, Shiho and Jeremy. I knew Mark just a bit. For sure he was a solid climber.
It seems he wasn't "double rope rappelling", but single rope rappelling? And either bringing his own rope down with him or leaving it as a separate fixed line? On a different note, this is one of the reasons I tend to make it a habit to set a rappel while flaking from the ends, regardless of a middle mark.
In January I watched an acquaintance fall 180 feet to her death; we kept her alive for a short time....it was impossible for her to live, honestly. I can never unsee that. Second person I've tried to save but couldn't while out for a day trip. Climbing: it giveth and it taketh away.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 16, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
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So sad to hear about Mark. I didn't know him but, regardless, we're all from the same tribe.
I've rappelled off the ends of my rope. Twice. The first time was in the '70s, 300' up the Apron. At night. I fell a few feet into a manzanita I hadn't seen in the dark.
The second time was very similar to Marks case: uneven ropes. In that case I was moving slowly, inspecting the overhanging route when I felt one end pass through my brake hand. I was able to hold on long enough for my partner, who was still on the top, to grab and pinch the two strands together allowing be to single-line rap to the ground.
I had visually checked that the rope was on the ground. It was, just not both strands.
So here's what I do now. Every time I start to climb, belay, lower or rap. I say to myself, CBBLAK. It means:
Check
Buckles-Am I buckled and tied in?
Belay-Am I or my partner on belay? Is everything threaded right. If I'm about to be lowered, does my partner have me on belay? Is she paying attention?
Landing-How does it look? Are both ends of the rope on the ground? Not sure? Tie knots. What's that landing look like if the leader fall before clipping the first piece? Factor 2 potential? Fix it before climbing.
Anchors-How them anchors? Bomber? If not, fix them. Clipped in? Threaded correctly?
Knots-Check yours. Check your partners. Master knots okay? Knots in the ends of the ropes when rappelling?
As I get old and more senile, and I find myself more often climbing in crowded and casual areas I find that the single biggest thing I can do is to pay attention.
Pay attention.
Pay attention
Pay attention.
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Brian
climber
California
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Mar 16, 2016 - 09:06pm PT
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Oh sh#t. This sucks. Mark and I did the RNWF IAD years ago, climbed a bunch in the Needles, and had loads of other good times in Josh and other CA environs. He was a solid climbing partner, safe and competent, trustworthy in a pinch. He had done a number of walls, with a team and solo, and put up a route with my other friend John in Patagonia.
More importantly, he was a great guy. Always made me laugh, even when things were tough.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Mar 17, 2016 - 06:20am PT
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What a sad deal, my heart felt condolences to family and friends. Let's face it, if you're a climber, skier, alpinist and you're on this thread you're lucky to be here. Like the rich man who claims his fortune came entirely from hard work, those who claim their longevity is solely a result of good decisions and thoughtful consideration are not understanding what it is to be human. Where you are today for better or worse is in part the luck of the draw in this game of life, climbers should understand this better than anyone.
WB speaks the turth.....
To fuk up is not hard to do no matter who you are .....
Safe passage everyone doing what we do.
Charlie D.
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