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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2015 - 02:50pm PT
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Yes. The fact that I cannot inspect it really doesn't help. It feels like a mistery box.
What confuses me even more, is Moot's experience. He returned it to rock exotica. They did something since afterwards he couldn't reproduce the issue.
But what?
Why don't they do the same treatment to any unit?
And last but not least, to any SP owner out here: would you keep it in your refrigerator for a few hours then test it?
I think it'd really help.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 28, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
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I hate the thing.
Too big and bulky.
I used the soloist when I soloed.
Never backed it up nor even tied into the end.
I figured I'm just free soloing with this gear and it's only there as a psychological crutch.
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
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Good news, I just got a reply from Rock Exotica sooner than usual, and it's a nice one.
Hey there Fabio,
I am reading through your emails and just watched your video clip.
I am going to take this to our rope technician and quality team getting some answers for you. We definitely want to make sure you are safe and if we need to issue a credit or get the SB3 back to us for testing we will do that.
Let me find out some answers for you. I will be in touch here shortly.
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Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
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Dec 28, 2015 - 03:25pm PT
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I am glad the OP ran his tests before jumping on the route and finding out the awful way that it didn't lock.
On a tangent:
Do you backup your gri-gri? Or any other belay device?
I do, as do most of us. I keep my arm in the break position and my brain on "belay duty." Okay, not most stay as alert as they should - I hate getting belayed by someone who gets bored easily with the job... Anyway - that back up equipment is designed NOT to fail. And yet, on occasion it does, sadly.
Glad that you got the quick response from manufacturer, which sounds very earnest, and TFPU climbing content!
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 28, 2015 - 03:50pm PT
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How do you back up a grigri when belaying someone free climbing?
giant metal box with a seatbelt winder
LOL .....
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Dec 28, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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Almost popcorn time!
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overwatch
climber
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Dec 28, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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I could post something very crude here. Thanks for the temptation, plastic hater
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Majid_S
Mountain climber
Karkoekstan
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Dec 28, 2015 - 06:07pm PT
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I can machine it and make a nice pulley out of it
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couchmaster
climber
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Dec 28, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
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Febs, thanks for the head's up. The cold thing has always been a caveat in the SP manual. I always had a hard time trusting my Silent Partner (my own mental issues), as like Werner, never really trusted it. Glad that you caught it before you really needed it, and look forward to the resolution. I know Schneider climbed the Nose solo in like 12 hours with one, which make only serves to make me feel like a pussy:-)
Good luck!
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Dec 28, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
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Put mine in the freezer. Working perfectly when it went in, after 30mins it would either not lock or take 3 or 4 spins to catch. As it thawed it came back to normal over about 1min in a 24c room.
Will see what it does after an hour freezing.
Puely anecdotal of course, and in line with REs advice.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Dec 28, 2015 - 08:41pm PT
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Yes Ian and your post made it funnier :)
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Lloyd Campbell
Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
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Dec 28, 2015 - 08:53pm PT
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It would take a pretty low-hung sack to gripe about any company that doesn't get back to you during the period from roughly a couple days before Christmas to the Monday after New Years. They're people with families that have worked the whole year and deserve some time off too. Sounds like RE did a pretty first rate job here.
Anyone who doesn't back up their safety systems while climbing is a fool.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Dec 28, 2015 - 09:37pm PT
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Clove hitches bitches!
Actually, the Clove is both a knot AND a hitch. (Yeah,that's right go running fer yer copy of Ashleys!
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 28, 2015 - 10:12pm PT
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The internal grease/lubrication thickens and keeps the internal mechanism from moving as freely the colder it gets ..... ?
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Dec 28, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
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Just took it out of the freezer after an hour ir soo. Took about 20muns before it started licking again.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Dec 28, 2015 - 10:49pm PT
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Hmmm. Which makes me wonder if freezing is really the relevant temperature.
I dont doubt REs prescriptions, but be interesting to know.
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2015 - 11:52pm PT
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All of you,
What I stated is just the truth, RE replied after several days to any of my emails. This time they were faster and I was glad of it. What is the problem with you guys?
Thanks to whom ran the tests. It is interesting how your devices are behaving the same way.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Dec 29, 2015 - 12:43am PT
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Im glad you started all this. Id probably not have had a go freezing it otherwise and i frequently climb in the cold. Always backed up, but still...
The sub freezing thing is very very real. Another device is necessary.
Doesnt really go far towards your devices issues, but a positive effect nonetheless.
Better than saying nothing.
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2015 - 01:06am PT
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Thank you.
My problem is, what happened to me, did when temperatures were above zero degrees Celsius - the darn freezing point.
You tested yours in the freezer.
Just wondering, can you please test it in the "normal" refrigerator as well? Its temperature should be around 4C, so non sub-freezing.
Cheers
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Dec 29, 2015 - 02:52am PT
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ok. i put it in the crisper tray of a regular freezer.
after 30mins it didnt lock the first spin but did the next 7 or 8 in either direction.
after 1 hr it locked the first spin, but didnt the second, then locked up every spin/either direction after that.
it doesnt mean much and certainly doesnt weigh up against REs decades of R&D, but its something.
in the couple of years ive been using that device i dont ever recall it not locking up before.
it wont stop me using it in normal conditions, but approaching about 5c i will start thinking about the soloist (which i used for a few years before getting hold of the SP).
just as it says in the literature....
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