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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jun 12, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
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This has been covered, but Temple Crag is filled with loose rock. Helmets are mandatory. I know a guy who suffered a horrible head trauma when the lead line knocked off a loose block on the Sun Ribbon.
None of these routes are hard, and if you don't dick around, you can do them quickly. Personally, I wouldn't want to climb with someone above me on those aretes.
Sill is easy-peasy. If you lead 5.8 you will probably use little pro. The rock is better as well. Most of it is low fifth class IRRC. I've guided most of those routes.
Temple Crag is a beautiful mountain, but the rock is different from the surrounding peaks. It is shattered and loose. So pay attention to where the rope is running, and always try to belay in a sheltered spot from rockfall above. So be careful. It isn't the climbing that is the problem, it is the loose rock.
I never needed crampons up there in the summer, but axes are nice, especially if you need to self arrest. I remember a snow gully on the descent from Sill that we used to glicade. One of the clients hit his butt on a buried rock and broke his Coccyx, which was painful. I suspect it is full of rocks in a low snow year like this one.
Have fun, just beware of rockfall on Temple Crag. It is spectacular, but loose.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 12, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
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Two points reinforced
Don't underestimate how much a climber who starts losing his nerve can slow down your team. You can go from 3d classing to occasional belays to belaying someone on even the 3d class sections very quickly. Now you're moving s.....l.....o.....w......l......y
In my opinion, it's best to plan not to retreat, and instead bivy in a sheltered spot on the ridge. This is related to my first point. Having been dragged to a belay-every-pitch-crawl by my partner we finally summited North Pal but on descent we got benighted at the top of U-Notch. In snow flurries. Last week in October. We bivvied for the night and had a no sweat descent in the morning. A little tired, a little hungry. Much safer than in the dark.
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CAC
Gym climber
Clairemont
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Jun 12, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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I'm always surprised when people bring an axe and not crampons into the Sierra in summer. For snow collars like you are likely to find guarding some of the routes mentioned in this thread, my preferred equipment is a single set of instep crampons for the party. In fact, I haven't carried an axe in the Sierra after my first few years climbing there over 20 years ago.
The way we handle summer snow: the team climbs to the base of the snow collar, one member of the team climbs the collar with instep crampons to the base of the route and fixes the rope, then the rest of the party uses the rope as a hand line up to the base of the route. Super quick and way safer than having the entire party try to make their way up a bullet-hard snow field with an ice axe, which in case of a slip they are unlikely to be able to use to arrest anyway.
The aluminum instep crampons are easily stowed away in a small pack or even in a pocket. Rock climbing with an axe strapped to your pack can be a constant hassle - most of the routes on Temple have some chimneys in which the axe will hang up.
The Sierra snow collars are usually not steep and are often sun cupped so all you really need is a way to keep your feet under you while you walk upwards. Instep crampons are good for that and can be securely attached to approach shoes so you don't even have to bring heavy boots. I bring them along on many of my Sierra trips and will often not use them but they are light insurance - I would hate to get turned back from a route just because I can't get across a 20-foot section of hard snow.
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jun 12, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
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Good point, CAC.
Maybe I should rethink the ice axe strategy and carry a pair of lightweight, fits-all crampons instead.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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Jun 12, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
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You can chop steps with this
Oversized tool
Good luck self arresting with
Instep crampons
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CAC
Gym climber
Clairemont
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Jun 12, 2015 - 05:06pm PT
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Luckily, chopping steps went out with woolen climbing breeches ;) I shudder to think about rock climbing with that long stick attached to my back.
Have you tried to self-arrest on hard early-morning Sierra snow, even at a moderate angle? I haven't but I'm guessing my chances of stopping myself would be 50/50 at best. Always better to not slip in the first place, which of course is what the crampons are for.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jun 12, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
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I've never regretted leaving the pons behind, but there have been a few times I really didn't like not having the axe.
Knowing how to efficiently whack a few steps or holds can save a lot of time and minimize the excitement.
Self arresting can be effective on surprisingly steep and hard surfaces IF! you've practiced it under the right conditions.
Both skills are about now completely lost arts, and most axes made now don't do either very well.
If I was just going to Temple I probably wouldn't bring either. (but I'd bring two nut tools this time)
For Sill in August I'd want the axe.
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Gary
Social climber
From A Buick 6
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Jun 12, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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Knowing how to efficiently whack a few steps or holds can save a lot of time and minimize the excitement.
True.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 12, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
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That's Jay Smith in the photo.
He probably knows what to do with the tool....one of a select group to summit all three of the Torre Group in Patagonia.
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JedHiker
Social climber
Long Beach, CA & Bishop area
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Happy to say that I climbed the lower portion of Moon Goddess Arete in 1969 or 1970 with the PSM. And a few days later, Swiss Arete. Doug Robinson was the training guide and John Fischer ran the clinic. Then, Swiss Arete again in 1992 with my son Mike and the late Alan Bard. And much later, numerous trips up the 4th class crack at Contact Pass. ( swing up left at the chicken head, for those who know)
As I walk the N. fork trails now, you might find me day hiking to the lakes or Sam Mack if I feel adventurous. Talking with the young climbers on their way up brings back memories seemingly days or weeks old rather than the 46 years.
I wish all of you the same memories. It never, ever leaves you.
Anyone out there sleep in the stone hut at the top of the Third Lake couloir?
Jed Bishop
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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I would like to know what this 'snow' thing is. I havent heard of this thing before.
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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What stone hut above Third Lake ?
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erikwright
Trad climber
Ottawa
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2015 - 10:04am PT
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By the way, we did make the trip out west, though we scaled back our ambitions and spent two weeks in Tuolomne. Fairview, Dozier, Tenaya, Matthes, Stately, Pywiack, Medlicott, Cathedral. An awesome trip! I'm still catching up with stuff at home but I'll get a TR up soon.
Palisades remain high on my list for another year. Thanks again for all the feedback here.
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