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Rick Linkert
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro. When I came out of retirement a while back, there were deaths right after my partner did The Line, Farley and Traveler's - blew our minds. I then saw a leader rip almost everythin as she neared us at the SB first pitch of Serenity. I turned away as it looked like she was going to hit. A nit filally held. We rapped to assist and the nut came out with a flip - no idea why it held. These accidents are completely unavoidable and appear to all be rated to last of experience placing pro. All new climbers should spend an apprenticeship following a master leader. Much too be learns from cleanind. Finally, many flakes at the Leap flex- always go for the solid corners and not the inviting flakes
This climber was very fortunate and his family and friends avoided much heartache
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Heal well, ^^?
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 11, 2013 - 10:45am PT
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Well, it sucks when people get hurt. Wishing a speedy recovery. Could have had a worse ending. Routes that get climbed that much get polished and may not hold gear the way they did a decade ago so the gear may have gotten more tricky. I can't speak to the experience or lack thereof of the leader.
RLF: ... I work as a guide. I see it all the time. The new generations of climbers have little time to perfect their skills. They are in too far of a hurry to achieve numbers over their own safety. I get a lot clients either fresh out of the gym, or pure sport climbers claiming they are 5.11 climbers. They somehow think that one gear/anchor class is all they need.
word^^^ this is the future. I see it more and more. I recently climbed with a 5.10 "leader" who didn't know how to lead-belay. ;( People increasingly just skip to the last page of the book without reading the story these days. What can you do?
Rick: Seems to me that every climbing gym would provide a significant public service by creating ground level cracks of various dimensions for new climbers to practice setting pro.
I totally agree. Every gym I've ever been in with cracks.. gym climbers generally avoid the cracks like the plague in favor of more gymnastic routes. Formalizing gym instruction on cracks would definitley help though IMO.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 11, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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I agree with DMT...
But, there is a bit of comfort to be had in the pure predictability of it all.
I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 11, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
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Combine them and call it booty and bodies.
lol
I wonder if we will find out what actually took place on this one.
eh... more fun to rampantly speculate.
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crankster
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 12:28pm PT
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Someone falls and the ST genius's have it all figured out before there's been any report. Damn gym climbers.., rotten Leap rock.. - what the hell is that matter with you folks?
The Leap is excellent granite. Yes, newbies flock there and some fall, as well as more experienced folks at times, same as Yosemite. Did you ever have a close call when you stonemaster's were learning BITD?
Have a little compassion - hoping for a speedy recovery.
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Stonewalker
Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
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Sep 11, 2013 - 01:56pm PT
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[photoid=320730]
Lake Valley fire was on scene. The fallen climber had severe bruising on ribs. Suspected a possible punctured lung. The climber was Jason from south Lake Tahoe. Later that night he was discharged with bruised ribs. Lake Valley was the crew that recovered Dan and I off of Craven Image and also the lady that fell on Surrelaistic Pillar. They are amazing at what they do.
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Stonewalker
Big Wall climber
Smartsville, Ca
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Sep 11, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Sep 11, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
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Someone decks at the Leap and a lecture tour starts, 100 miles away.
This place has an rc.com element to it....
DMT
Wrong. Distance has nothing to do with it. This problem exists everywhere. The number of people I see climbing out here who can't even belay is disturbing to say the least.
[Edit]
Turning a blind eye on the problem does not make it go away.
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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Sep 11, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
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I'm inconfident in my gear placement, that's why I stick to sport and bouldering. Lol.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Sep 11, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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Wow Ron that seems like a big undertaking , you should consider putting a limit on the number of students that can enroll in the class , like 8 maybe .
I took an intro-to-rock-climbing class at Fullerton Junior College back in the day, it was held at the local gym . I loved it and was hooked . Wish we could have gotten outside to real rock though .
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mjb
Trad climber
Point Pleasant, NJ
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Sep 12, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
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for the youngsters that are looking for colleges with real rock nearby
http://blogs.fortlewis.edu/adventureeducation/?tag=rock-climb
Fort Lewis College, Durango, CO has had a rock climbing class since at least 1974 and the class takes place on real rock, at the x-rock area in town.
Glad to hear that the accident was only bruised ribs.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 12, 2013 - 12:44pm PT
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Stonewalker-
What happened on Craven Image?
Great route, but a tricky path to follow.
There is a 5.7X pitch that suckers people into, until it's too late!
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Friedo
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Sep 13, 2013 - 02:59pm PT
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Lake Tahoe Community College (LTCC) has a rock climbing class for beginners, intermediates, leading and self rescue. That's how I got started (sort of).
RON,
Let me know if you need an assistant instructor for the WNC class if/when they get back to you. That way, you could accommodate more than 8 people.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 13, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
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Hey Ron if the class thing comes to fruition,(Insurance will probably be the sticking point) you might want to give Pat Mathews a call. Or even Rocco they both have experience with the problems of teaching climbing out of colleges and university's. Might have some insight on getting around the red tape. Where does Clear Creek actual sit is it on Indian Land? That might be another consideration.
Of course if your students can climb 5.11 in the gym they don't need to learn how to place no stinkin' gear.... Could be natural selection at least we were smart enough to go slow and learn nutcraft, they didn't have any stinkin' cams back then, or maybe we were lucky.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Sep 13, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
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Mark
Its on Tribal Land.....memer we almost got arrested there that one cold snowy night a couple years ago for trespassing. At least I almost did for talking to the tribal police.
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Sep 13, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
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Hmmmmmm interesting Ron as the tribal police tried to arrest me for trespassing there several years ago.
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 14, 2013 - 09:56am PT
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Shawn, "I was there, you were there, do you remember?", I have been harassed there a few times over the years and then other times they just drive on by?
Hey Ron maybe we can take up a collection and buy the Indian police a map.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Sep 14, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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Mark
Thats a great idea....part of the gear check list for Dino . Map for the tribal police with a big FU circled around Dino........
That LEO was one of the biggest pricks I have ever dealt with....
Sorry for the thread heist...hope the injured party at lovers is doing ok
Shawn
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