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ruppell
climber
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Mar 14, 2013 - 01:31pm PT
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Mar 14, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
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LoL.. could be.. good one if so.
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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Mar 14, 2013 - 01:55pm PT
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Why not carry a belay seat? Problem(if there was one?) solved.
Also from the angle of the pic, wont the ropes be laying tight against that metal footstool upon rappel?
There is a wooden platform on some route in Owens River Gorge I once saw.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Mar 14, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
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Great, another ST flame-fest.
Las Chimuelas is one of Magic Ed's many, many routes. The ledge is at the top of the last pitch, and is the rappel stance. It's rather unlikely that someone could fall and hurt themselves on it. But you never know.
Potrero is not Squamish, and it's not the Valley, and it's not Chamonix, and it's not Llanberris............it's Potrero. It's only an amusement park in the summer, when local families come to bbq, swim, drink beer and have fun. In the winter visiting Potrero is strictly voluntary.
Personally, I would like to thank Magic Ed for:
-----His many years of route development.
-----His many years of route maintenance.
-----The 18 editions of his guidebook.
-----His warm welcome and assistance to visiting climbers.
And how long will the 'streak' be? Well, likely not too long. It's in the desert you know. Hint: Check out those green spikey things called cactus.
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Mar 14, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
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Cos, your right. They used massive jacks and come alongs, someone should post the picture of the lawn chair bolted to the right wing hanging belay
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:18pm PT
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Yeah come on everyone quit picking on Ed. It's not his fault he posted a picture of a metal belay ledge bolted on a route. Geez give the guy a break.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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How about a hooker awaiting with some blow ?
Best suggestion yet!
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:29pm PT
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Rich said: "3. As climbers age, they just get weirder. And I say this as one of the aged ones."
haha! So true!
PS, you Squamish dudes feeling holier and purer than thou, go check out Cacoman boulders where your predecessors drilled 2 and 3 hole pockets with ain industrial pneumatic drill back in the 70's /early 80's so they could put up some shitty 30-40' tall sport routes. LOL. I'm just sayin is all.....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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In the winter visiting Potrero is strictly voluntary.
The rest of the year it is f*#king MANDATORY!!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
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I guess no one carries belay seats anymore, eh?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:32pm PT
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Yeah, I guess we should be more tolerant, some people are born bozos, and it's not their fault.
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orle
climber
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Mar 14, 2013 - 03:34pm PT
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Awww, that's not good enough. As noted, this stance clearly needs a sunshade as well. But it shouldn't stop there. How about a hooker awaiting with some blow ?
That's where I draw the line!
geddit? "Draw the line"..?
....i'll get me coat
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Mar 14, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
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really Ed?
yet another example of lameness.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 14, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
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Orie to the car with you!! ;)
No one holier than thou here, I simply said if it were in Squamish it would likely get chopped. Heck, the right wing seat almost got chopped last year by some Brits. I'm all for going with the local ethic.. Like coz said, our cliffs require a significant amount of "cleaning" which by Cali standards would be considered outrageous, but our forest does regenerate quite quickly and will take over an area in less than ten years if is not frequented often and maintained every spring.
As one local guidebook author has been known to say, "The trees are winning" Hamie and Tricouni never had a problem with it though, but they seemed to enjoy climbing cracks with dirt and shrubs in them because it provided more handholds and protection. Today's modern snobbish climbers prefer clean stone to practice our craft. Who is to say which ethic is correct?
As far as the right wing seat is concerned, even it is contentious and it is simply a piece of wood hanging from a couple of bolts.
Are there no local Mexican climbers? What is a local? Is it someone who lives and works in an area and has contributed a lot of routes in that area? Or is it only someone who is of ethnic dissent of that area? How far do we take that game? Since a large majority of North Americans are immigrants at some point... Should Native Americans be the only ones to decide how we climb in Canada or America?
I think sometimes we take ourselves a bit too seriously.....
Btw Nutjob has the best joke so far...
If they added electrical outlets at the belay, you could recharge your iphone even if shade made the solar chargers worthless. Then we could all get more real-time trip reports.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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Here's a couple pictures of my own contribution to the ledge wars. Bear in mind its on my private property, the crag is a man made quarry, it solved an erosion issue at the base of some popular routes, its become the preeminent social venue of the crag, and my dogs love it.
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Mar 14, 2013 - 04:58pm PT
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^^^^^^^Fukin Awesome!!!!!
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S.Leeper
Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
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Mar 14, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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the only thing more kickass then that awesome belay bench, is that the crag is on your land!
no bet on the rust streak, but I bet this post gets to 666 responses.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Mar 14, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
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Off White, do you ever find yourself yelling "Give me some f***ing slack"? Just curious.
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abrams
Sport climber
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Mar 14, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
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My feet like that ledge already.
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The lameness is when climbers take seriously the fantasy world they've created about rocks and go gangster.
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