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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 14, 2006 - 09:38pm PT
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Lambone - a few of us around here that don't wear blinders fully realized that. Kinda funny watching the ones that don't.
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 14, 2006 - 11:00pm PT
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Lambone says Middendorf just did Zodiac with the Hubers and took a bunch of monster whips! This is so sick, I gotta get out there!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Jun 14, 2006 - 11:08pm PT
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no,no,no...
Middendorf retro bolted Dihedral wall with the Hubers and their chalk is still all over the holds, while Tommy Caldwell and PTPP are trying to remove bolts that Todd Skinner placed on Zodiac years back...while making a speed ascent. So far PTPP took the biggest whip trying to free Beth Rodden, the Hubers were filming it and Pete will be posting his pics soon..
jeeze, keep up dude...
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:00am PT
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"So where else but Yosemite can you schmooze with the world's best? Alex and Thomas are always supportive of everyone's efforts, from the pros down to the gumbies like me. They were genuinely interested in my two-week ascent of Dihedral Wall with Cybele, the antithesis of a speed ascent."
That's one thing I've always noticed about them too Pete. They'll ask you what YOU have been climbing with genuine interest and are happy to listen to other climbers discuss what they're up to.
They definitely bring a very positive spirit with them whenever they're in the valley.
Keep us posted on their time tomorrow Pete. Best of luck to das Hubers.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:17am PT
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Lambone, I thought Baba was up with the Hubers taking huge whippers on Zodiac and Deuce was belaying Beth on The Nose while yo was trying to psych out Skinner so that he didn't go and beat Coilers head in for pulling the bolts on Zodiac. And BTW, ya'll got it all wrong - those are MY tick marks. No wonder T*R gets confused.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:36am PT
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Well I also heard that Bachar decided to tie into a rope for once and climb a 5.11 he had never been on. HE took a huge lead fall six or seven thousand feet off the deck and the rope broke. Now I'm scared! Two ropes in one year? JB just walked it off though. Go figure....
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:36am PT
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Stop what?
I totally just got in from having a sixer in the Meadow with Deucey, Alex& Thomas, and Keira Knightley. I'd talk a little more at length about how great it was to see John again but Keira wants to hop on Jump for Joy by headlamp. Out.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:39am PT
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Oh, and as the other Deuce pointed out Britney Spears *is* in the Valley and she wants to jump on my headlamp after six. I'm not down on the sit and spin gig though. She did suggest that Keira join us in the ALL-IN for a game of poker. I think you got ditched in the ditch, yo!
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yo
climber
I'm so over it
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:42am PT
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Dude, can you do a K-Fed roll?
haha
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jun 15, 2006 - 12:46am PT
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No, but I can do a canadian assassin roll. The profit margin is huge on that bad boy. It's full of hot air and dung. Or, maybe I can.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 02:13pm PT
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Um, hi.
I, uh, slept in. I'm sitting in Yos. Village drinking coffee, since it's not yet noon.
I don't know how Alex and Thomas did this morning as I have not yet ventured out. Some "reporter" I am, eh?
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eddie7
Trad climber
London, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 02:22pm PT
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C'mon Pete.
Get your hide in gear and give us an update, dude!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jun 15, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
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Rumour has it the Hubers either ran into, or avoided, a traffic jam and speed bumps at Sickle, and that the speed attempt today was a bust.
Presumably they remained to continue filming because the crew is up there, which they told me was the plan for the next couple days.
More when I find out something factual.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 15, 2006 - 07:56pm PT
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PTPP wrote the Hubers said
"I asked them about the tick-marks of chalk, and they told me that they placed them to mark the cam placements. "Ven vee are laybacking, vee can't see where to place ze cams."
Absolutely and totally false. (I'm not sure I'm against the tick marks but here's what I saw)
There are tick marks over everything, cam placements, jams, even sloper holds and arete grabs. If they put cams in those tick marks, they'd be as slow as me (well, they'd be slower than they are)
There are dozens, if not, hundreds of tick marks that are plainly on holds and jam (which just let me marvel at what folks can climb)
peace
Karl
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Jun 15, 2006 - 08:01pm PT
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"Rumour has it the Hubers either ran into, or avoided, a traffic jam and speed bumps at Sickle, and that the speed attempt today was a bust"
You mean their "Stop! Don't move!! Vee go for speed!" calls didn't work this time hahaha?
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jack herer
climber
chico, ca
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Jun 15, 2006 - 11:20pm PT
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Only time I met the Hubers, they where extremely rude to the people I was around, I couldnt belive their hostility. I will never gain back any respect for them.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:33am PT
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ok- so i have spoken to 2 friends who've been on the nose in the last week or so. both say that the tick marks are pervasive throughout the route, and i have also been told that the route is fairly well set up in spots. for example, there are several new looking fixed nuts in the great roof.
PPTP above makes the point that they didn't hammer in a bunch of new pitons (someone have a piton issue? just askin...), but that statement leaves open the question of whether or not the route has been set up, and how completely. apparently, as i understand it (and i have not been up there to see it), there have been additions of fixed gear (albeit not pitons) in various spots and the slings or webbing throughout the route have been replaced, so a bold and talented climber can not only run it out, but can do so w/ a lighter than usual rack and less then the usual risk. all of that makes sense from a speed climbing standpoint.
one could argue that it would impact the experience of other joeclimber types on the route, but i think w/ the popularity of free attempts on the various more popular routes, joe ought to expect that sort of thing on el cap trade routes in june!
i do think think that anyone who wants to state that they hold the record for a speed ascent on any route ought to be open about their tactics. i am in no way intending to criticize the hubers or their goals, talents, or efforts, and to be fair they are not here saying that they did or did not do this or that to set the route up for their sprint, but i do think the tone of PPTP's post was slightly misleading (perhaps not so and it was only my impression, but who cares either way).
my only points are that 1)some effort has been made to limit both the risk involved and the need for any downtime in fiddling w/ gear during the ascent, and 2)while that doesn't seem to be against any "rules" i have ever heard of, still a climber who intends to publicly announce an accomplishment/record on a given climb ought to be open about their tactics, and let those to whom they are announcing be the judge of the relative style. just like a pinkpoint/redpoint/headpoint/onsight, it's all semantics, and yet it's possibly not exactly equal to another effort where the climber chose a different style. [edit-] as an example i would hold up ammon mcneely's habbit of onsighting hard routes in a push to claim multiple speed ascent records, and i doubt that anyone would suggest that the rehearsed times up well equipt routes fall into the same category [/edit]
best of luck to alex and thomas, climb safe and tear it up!
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Jun 16, 2006 - 01:51am PT
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Too funny.
Haven't these people figured it out yet?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 16, 2006 - 02:02am PT
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"i have also been told that the route is fairly well set up in spots. for example, there are several new looking fixed nuts in the great roof."
Having done the Nose a number of times, I can say that, in terms of fixed gear, it's no worse than it ever was and is perhaps a bit better. I had to even place a piece or two in the horizontal part of the great roof (probably cause some free climbers needed the pin scar, but there you have it) I'm sure the Hubers just ape through.
The route is very tick marked and some old looking fixed gear has updated slings, but much of the newer looking fixed stuff really looked like cams that got sideways and wanked, not prefixed by speed climbers.
Peace
Karl
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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Jun 16, 2006 - 02:07am PT
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OK TR, I'll explain, and for those of you still confused, here's the deal.
Most of the posters on this thread think the OP "Duece",
is the well know climber John Middendorf. It is not.
The real JM posts here under the name "Duece4".
I even posted this in my first post, but obviously most people don't read.
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