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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Hey Nick, glad to hear that you didn’t lose all of your gear! Whew! Stay psyched, bro!
Is it time for booby traps yet…??? Or Wesley Sniper? C’mon Ron, we could take care of this for less than a hundred bucks… ;)
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Corey Fields
Trad climber
Texas
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Oh, right! .... ticker moves a lil slow sometimes.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Hey Radical, how come you want to go back up to 230 pounds?
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gonz
Sport climber
Prague cz
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I forgot a combo lock on a bear locker in Curry. Came back 9 months later, no one stole my cans or cut my lock. I dont think they are as strict with the bear lockers by the oneway street by boystown.
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ricardo
Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
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dude .. yosemite sucks as far as gear thiefs ..
i had stashed my gear at the manure pile lot (and locked it) -- someone broke the lock and stole $2000 worth of stuff (about 2 years ago) ..
.. another time i had a bunch of stuff taken from a line that i left fixed..
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dream is right. The reality is that its the Harding E Face route done as a free climb (though often not).
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DOR
Trad climber
NV.
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I often felt like posting about the gear rip-off I had 11-17-04.
I was so pissed that I can only now use my misfortune in order to inform others.
At 7:15am my daughter asked me where Mommy was going?
Mom isn't here.
She just drove out of the driveway,Dad.
It's 7:18 and I was talking to 911.
My son and I had takin 5 teens for a day of craggin' and TRs
it went so well that we were going out the next day. I pitched all the bins in the rig and took off. Got home set the alarm and turned in at home for the night. I left all the gear in the rig.
We got the rig back 9 days later, thrashed, no gear, nada.
I have alot of gear based on needs beyond my own I lost 7.000 +
I was stupid in a few ways. I would like to say there are a few things to do if you are as unlucky as me. Photograph all your stuff. Home owners or renters Ins. here.....
Hey whata' bout a cummunity gang box?
Vegas is nice right now
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mastadon
Trad climber
Seattle
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Mr Ouch Sir,
You absolutely SLAY me with your photos. Please keep them coming!!!!!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Radical,
the point is not how hard it is. This is a thread about ripoffs. I'm all for recording FFAs but renaming routes is a ripoff.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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And then, Ron, there are those who would say that Harding ripped off every piece of rock he ever touched. In that light, renaming east face of the column would be more akin to revisionist history.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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"Harding ripped off every piece of rock he ever touched."
Some would call those fighting words, but you are obviously but a lowly peon envious of the distinction accorded to a deserving pioneer and willing to attempt your own by that very means!
Crawl back into your cave troglodyte!
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Bart Fay
Social climber
Redlands, CA
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DOR-
I guess you should not have trusted your wife.
Take her to court man ! Bee-atch better have my rack !
Maybe I read that wrong.
Are we ever gunna get the story about how Nick's gear was stolen
and some how regained ?
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DOR
Trad climber
NV.
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Naw man, it did'nt happen like that....lol
My wife was at the gym with a friend...bastards waited for my son to go to work as he was parked behind the target. Stole the rig 4-5 mins. after my son left. They even had a key.
Such is Vegas, #1 in the nation for GTA...
Did get to buy all new camalots though.
R. Rock is very wet and windy today
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Hey Ron,
Dude, you misread me. I was just stating the opinion of others (like Robbins, for instance). I don't really weigh in on either side of the issue. Harding did a lot of burly climbing. He also did a lot of bolting.
Jezz...no need to take what I said out of context. I was merely restating the other side of a very very old climbing feud.
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ADK
Trad climber
Reno, Nevada
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Whenever I have something controversial to say from now on, I will begin by saying, "and then there are those who would say (blah, blah, blah). That way if the going gets tough, I can point out that it was never my opinion in the first place.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Right on ADK!
Billygoat, I feel quite certain that you were definitely NOT speaking for Robbins, and to suggest that you were shows just how unwilling you are to to stand up for what YOU and not someone else believes.
Shame on you for even saying it and besmirching a name worthy of only our greatest praise.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Apr 12, 2006 - 04:09am PT
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Jeez, have I really been away from the computer since April 5th? Time flies when yer climbin'.
Well, anyways. Saying that I'm speaking for someone or that I'm representing the other side of an issue without stating my opinion are two completely different things. I'm not claiming speak for Robbins. But there's no doubt he's one of Harding's greatest critics.
For instance, take the last paragraph of Robbins' 1970 Summit article on Harding. In this article, Robbins largely defends Harding's accomplishments, but he certainly does not condone the bolting: "Although this climb [Dawn Wall] may not of been exactly to our taste, and although we might have fretful little criticisms that envy always produces, we can better spend our energy than ripping or tearing, spend it better than denigrating the accomplishments of others. Spend it, for example, climbing." So even in his most appreciative moments, Robbins won't cut Harding too much slack.
So there's Robbins in his own words. As for my opinion, and my spokespeople. I would like to make clear that you, Ron, are most certainly not on my PR staff. And you most certainly do not have the right to insinuate what my opinion is. I don't think I've ever hidden my opinion on this site (many would probably say that I'm over opinionated). But I still reserve the right not to have an opinion, and you should not be overly concerned with forcing one on me, just because I do not overtly agree with you. I think we'd both be better off climbing.
But as to the original question of renaming a route when freed. When a route is free climbed, and done in a style so completely different from the style of the first ascent, it would seem to me that it is ultimately a different route--or a different product of the artists or craftmen of ascension--and deserving of another name. History can remember the trivial details of who came before, but it should also take significant note of who accomplished the purest style of ascent. So why shouldn't the first free climbers have the luxury of giving the free line a new name?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 12, 2006 - 07:25am PT
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"The purest style of ascent"?
You assume much.
Climber A puts up a route, cleans off the loose debris. Climbers B-X climb the route cleaning it off further and the aid sections get widened with pitons or eliminated by being freed until the route goes free except for one or two moves.
Now along comes billygoat!
Billy, macho man that he is, figures out the one move left. Then he says,"screw everyone else's contribution my one move is the purest style of ascent I'm gonna rename it."
What a presumptuous bonehead!
The Robbins quote was one of his most noted because of what he shortly went out and did with Don Lauria, but even Robbins, after making who knows how many FFAs, didn't rename routes. In fact from what little contact I've had with him he seems quite modest about his contribution.
Billygoat embodies one of the most shameful aspects of modern rock climbing, egotism masquarading as nobility!
I don't know how many hours and minutes you have left to go Billygoat, but something tells me when the end comes you're gonna be rapping not jugging.
Anyway, I'm glad Nick got his stuff. Lets get some lockers.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Apr 12, 2006 - 09:58am PT
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Has a gear thief ever been caught in the act in the Yosemite Valley? What was the punishment?
Jeff
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Apr 12, 2006 - 10:31am PT
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'"The purest style of ascent"?
You assume much.'
Go on Ron...I'm waiting for your argument that free climbing is no better than aid climbing. Say, because so much of the aid climbing makes the free climbing possible (or so we would assume because of piton scars, etc.).
No need to get muddled down in personal attacks. This could otherwise be an interesting debate that has a lot of relevance in a thread concerning Camp 4.
As for the rapping instead of jugging...I beg to differ. The only times I've ever bailed off walls has been for one of two reasons: my partner wouldn't continue, or we were holed up on our portaledge for almost 24 hours and did not have enough food/water to continue on. I get way more scared free climbing than I do aid climbing. Perhaps that's why I respect free climbing as a purer form. But I think there's something else...
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