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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 12, 2018 - 10:04pm PT
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Another amazing Apron route of this caliber is Mouth to Perhaps. Big ripper potential on this one as well.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 12, 2018 - 11:10pm PT
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I love Apron stories.
Cast off into the ocean of granite with not much more than a zen like focus to save you.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Feb 13, 2018 - 12:34am PT
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It's only a two pitch route and I think it was only rated 5.9, but Flakey Foont was a pretty unique Apron climb. Only three bolts total for two pitches, mainly because the slab was just too smooth to stop and drill. So, you just shuffled upwards on time-delay smears. If you moved too slowly you just slid back down to the start. The higher up you went, the consequences of that slide became more and more painful. The technique became known as "foonting."
Several ST threads have discussed various aspects of this climb.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Feb 13, 2018 - 04:10am PT
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Man. Flakey Foont was my very first route in the valley. Hello!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 13, 2018 - 08:21am PT
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Flakey F. was never 5.9 in the old EBs. More like mid 5.10. And it felt like if you popped, you might go into a skid-tumble for MILES. I remember doing this with Kevin W. and thinking we were basically soloing the whole mo fo. An Apron classic because it was so improbable. Glass.
Other routes I liked over there were Green Monster, Calf with continuation (dime cranking on perfect rock), first 4 pitches of Hall of Mirrors, Mr. Natural, and Apron Jam. Always wanted to try and free Perhaps but never got round to it. We went to the Apron for rest days and never focused on it as prime real estate. First time I climbed Coonyard Pinnacle (in high school shod in PAs), I fell off it.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 13, 2018 - 05:43pm PT
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> Green Monster
I don't recognize that Apron climb.
Has it been renamed?
What is it near?
Left of The Calf?
[edit:]
Thanks, henny - I bet he did mean Green Dragon.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 13, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
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Not to speak for John, but maybe he meant Green Dragon?
Green Dragon makes for a nice outing when linked with Mr. Natural. Good variety combining the two.
Lucifer's Shoes is also a good link between Sailin' Shoes and Lucifer's Ledge. A little on the hard side but good.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Feb 13, 2018 - 10:10pm PT
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Lucifer's Shoes ?
Is that a continuation off the top of the 4th pitch of "Sailin' Shoes"? Know there's something up there, but wasn't sure about where it went or how many pitches there were?
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TLP
climber
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Feb 13, 2018 - 11:20pm PT
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...time-delay smears.
LOL!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 14, 2018 - 01:48am PT
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Green Dragon
pix overdue Always having fun!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 14, 2018 - 02:13am PT
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Roger and I replaced the bolts on this, and one formerly broken bolt on Sailin' Shoes a couple of years ago.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Feb 14, 2018 - 09:12am PT
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Yeah. Green Dragon. Felt like Suicide Rock.
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
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Feb 14, 2018 - 01:34pm PT
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Roger and I replaced the bolts on this, and one formerly broken bolt on Sailin' Shoes a couple of years ago.
Thanks Clint!
I remember looking up at what was to become "Lucifer's Shoes" in 1978 and realizing it was going to turn out to be 5.12 friction, forgetting about it. Good thing someone with Johnny's skill set tackled it.
That must be some route. Sailin' Shoes, Lucifer's Shoes, plus Lucifer's Ledge. There's a continuation too? Keep you on your toes for quite a while.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Feb 14, 2018 - 03:47pm PT
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I am absolutely loving this thread! Happy Valentine's Day..
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Feb 14, 2018 - 05:23pm PT
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Historical and hysterical thread!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 14, 2018 - 08:14pm PT
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Hey Clint/Roger,
Thanks for replacing the bolts on Lucifer's Shoes!
It was 5.12 friction. The third bolt gave us quite a fight. You were just far enough out that it seemed far enough given the difficulty. Took us a few hours to get it in. Several falls from the stance (haha) trying to get started. It became quite a chore having to do the crux over and over to work on the bolt. At one point JW became desperate enough to try hooking on friction. Right. Predictable result.
Funny how it is, once the hole started it went quickly. JW powered the rest of the pitch in one clean go drilling the remaining bolts and anchor, simply because he didn't want to do the start again. Great effort. Due to hand drilling he tweaked his shoulder in the process and it off/on bothered him for years. We still laugh about it. Sort of. [edit: just talked to JW, he says it still bothers him at times]
Fun route. Yeah, going to the top of Lucifer's Ledge makes it quite a few good pitches.
Edit(s):
Where was the broken bolt on SS? Now that Clint mentions it I vaguely remember something like a broken bolt. Or at least I think I do.
I did Green Dragon maybe 10(?) years ago and the first couple of bolts on P2 were gone. Didn't look like rock fall damage because they were broken slightly below flush to the rock. Any idea about what transpired with those bolts? I found it rather odd, almost had a chop aura to it.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Feb 15, 2018 - 07:31am PT
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Thanks Clint.
I forgot you mentioned something in the previous thread and got a little lazy in not looking it up myself to check.
You are an amazing keeper/source of information.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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summer 2007: Roger and I fixed ropes down from Lucifer's Ledge. Then Roger replaced all the bolts he could find on reachable routes. (We also pulled many added bolts from Angel's Approach p1).
Let us know!