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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Nov 22, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
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If you're German or Austrian, you start yodelling!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 22, 2010 - 08:58pm PT
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Synchronicity, Lolli, my last big leader fall was head first too!
i've taken perhaps hundreds of leader falls in the last forty odd years of leading. It never occurred to me to grab the rope.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Nov 22, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
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breathe out , look down , relax
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2010 - 09:26pm PT
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Well- evidently all the French 8a-climbing hotties grab the rope so that settles it.
Actually- I notice that,technically- they grab the knot right up close to the harness. They are also taking incredibly long falls into mid-air. Not sure if that makes a difference.
Nice video, but I really wish there was more climbing and less cutting away to show close-ups of the annoying didgeridoo guy.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 22, 2010 - 09:57pm PT
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I don't see anybody above stressing a slab fall issue.
On slab falls you absolutely do not want to start somersaulting down the slab--- you have to do everything you can immediately to only slide while watching your feet as you do. But do not lower your head lest you encourage that deadly rolling head over heels situation that happens when feet catch or your upper body starts to bend forward.
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matty
Trad climber
los arbor
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Nov 22, 2010 - 11:02pm PT
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Peter, just reading you're description makes me dizzy. nicely worded.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 22, 2010 - 11:05pm PT
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I know Matty. But it happens. An otherwise harmless although long slide can turn flat-out deadly if you start tumbling in some fashion. I guess another way of putting this is, when falling you try with all your might to glissade the fall. And of course your shoes get roached. Slab falls can easily be long, remember. If you can keep from crouching or from toppling you are your best. Don't make a ball-like shape.
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john hansen
climber
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Nov 22, 2010 - 11:06pm PT
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So Peter , what is the "proper" method of falling / sliding down a slab?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 22, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
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It seems counter-intuitive, but you rarely want to be holding the rope when you fall. Much like you should take your hands off the steering wheel if in a car crash (if there's time) - it's false security, and may cause you to be more severely injured.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Nov 22, 2010 - 11:15pm PT
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So Peter , what is the "proper" method of falling / sliding down a slab?
I think that's where The meat of the fall
comes in.
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john hansen
climber
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Nov 22, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
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I was gonna say there has to be some kind of skid marks...
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MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
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Nov 23, 2010 - 12:02am PT
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^^See what you get for leaving the gym!^^ ;)
Crap, my cover is totally blown - it looks like I am grabbing the rope!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Nov 23, 2010 - 12:24am PT
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So when is the action at Hanger 18?
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Duke
Social climber
PSP
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Nov 23, 2010 - 12:36am PT
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Monaco, Kris. It is also a slabby landing, but OK.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2010 - 09:25am PT
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I've been poking around for a video of someone actually taking a long slab fall. Video documentary of this phenomenon seems to be harder to catch on tape than a Stellar sea cow.
I did find an archive of large lead falls. Variety of grab/not grab.
http://www.splitterchoss.com/2007/10/29/biggest-rock-climbing-falls-caught-on-video/
Both Katie Brown and Dean Potter end up with hands on the rope, but again... very long mid-air falls and I see that they actually sort of spread their arms first, then end up with hands resting on the knot at the end of the fall. Not really grabbing it right off.
More like the types of falls us mortals would take:
Aussie Grampians guy down page a bit takes a shorter fall, grabs the rope , two pieces pull and his hands get rope burned like crazy. Cabo san Lucas guy takes about 3 falls from various heights, never touches the rope and is fine.
PS: @ Spidersavage. We don't usually climb there. It's a really long drive from our place. We were just meeting up with friends for a birthday-thing. I'll be back at Boulderdash after the holiday.
PPS @ NeeD OUCH!! The fall was fine... then there's the painful swing into the sharp edge of the Hairlip . Yikes. Looked painful.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 23, 2010 - 10:10am PT
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With the rope in my mouth to keep me from screaming.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2010 - 10:13am PT
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Donini's rock climbing students:
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2010 - 10:22am PT
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So Peter (or Kris)... for real... I'm totally ignorant and would like to hear more . The longest slab fall I've taken was only like... 4 feet. Can you elaborate a bit? I get the "don't be a ball". Rolling/tumbling bad. When you say "glissade" a long slab fall.. are you actually turning your body either sideways or backside to the rock (heels controlling the slide)... or are you still facing the rock (on your toes for the slide)? I've heard people actually say they sort of "run backwards" down the fall. True/false?
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