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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Aug 24, 2010 - 07:02pm PT
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Go Lynnie Go!
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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Aug 24, 2010 - 07:11pm PT
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Well it seems the caution advice is the best. Older women and men don't heal so well and as we age every day becomes more and more special... at some point the risk of an injury serious enough to keep you from ever again walking/climbing/skiing/whatever should be weighed against the value of climbing some 40ft rock, unroped. Personally, I am glad you got the satisfaction of the climb but also I hope you will get over taking foolish risks at your age. There is a lot you can climb without risking the time you have left in the sport, and in good health, from a simple slip. Call it "Brotherly advice"...best of luck! Tom
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 24, 2010 - 08:06pm PT
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Lynnie-
One reason I don't do much in the way of bouldering anymore, is a broken ankle accident in 1983 at the base of the Rincon Wall in upper Eldorado Canyon. I was bouldering the start of Rhiodina on some exceedingly slick rock. I wasn't watching that I had traversed slightly over a deep pocket in the terrain when I had my feet simply pop on me. I fell about 6-8 feet and landed upright with an enormous "pop" from my right medial maleolus. I managed to get out by limping along with support from Anne and Gary taking turns, and an improvised walking stick. I had an open reduction and orthopedic screw emplaced, that is still there (Cannot be removed now).
I'm simply echoing many of the others here, to be careful about your choices. If trad climbing is really your thing, limit your bouldering to safe problems and leave the high balls to the younger generation! I do!!!
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Sarah Funky Fresh
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 24, 2010 - 11:03pm PT
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Lynne, you are amazing for this and so many other reasons!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Aug 24, 2010 - 11:11pm PT
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Well done Lynne!
When I highball, I make sure it's pretty easy, so there is right next to zero chance that I'm gonna fall.
I did a few high ones a couple years ago that were beyond that.....
The easy ones still feel pretty darn good!
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Aug 24, 2010 - 11:48pm PT
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I've never liked Bouldering.
Even 40 years ago, more people got injured bouldering than climbing.
Personally, I found climbing progressively harder stuff until I fell off and then going back again (ground up) did plenty for understanding my limits and overcoming them. I also learned to trust the rope and to make a bigger effort without fear of falling as a result.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Aug 25, 2010 - 01:25am PT
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good one Linnie.. enjoyed seeing you in the meadows this weekend!
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Aug 25, 2010 - 01:44am PT
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OK I don't want to be the new "Marv," but some of you are getting a little over the top in the "OMG don't boulder, it is too dangerous!!!"
It takes experience to balance the various combinations of landing, spotters, height, probability of falling, etc. And when in doubt, I agree it's best to be conservative, especially for those of us with some years on us (99% of posters here).
But bouldering can be enjoyed by middle-aged codgers, and some of you may be making assumptions as to how "high" the "high ball" is (my rule of thumb, if spotters can be of reasonable help, it ain't THAT high).
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Aug 25, 2010 - 05:04am PT
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"...never climb up what you can't reverse..."
Excellent pointer!
The scariest, although not the hardest, climb I had to reverse/down climb unroped was the lower third of the Steck/Salathe(I wore a new pair of PA's/the red one's that i thought would work well in the OW/chimney's). Up high on the flying buttress(about a pitch above Wilson Overhang)I got the sh#t scared out of me trying to friction in them, and thought it best that I end it right there. They weren't working for crap anyway, I never wore them again. But I made it back down.
I remember vividly, reversing a move in a chimney that going up required rocking off of my left foot onto my right foot(to one point)and sticking a finger lock into a large chock-stone that was blocking the chimney. It was rated 5.8 or 5.9 at the time.
Point being, after more that twenty five years of climbing and soloing he had the knowledge and ability to retreat. Doesn't happen overnight.
On the way back down I hung there for a long time before I got the nerve to let go of that finger lock onto the only thing touching(my right foot)and sticking the stem(my left foot)and then my left and right hands. Actually it was only 5-10 minutes but seemed like eternity. Looking down the 1,000 feet to the Valley floor and thinking I would have a lot more time then I desired to ponder what a fool I'd been to get myself into that situation.
I went on and soloed and high-balled early Buttermilk problems, and onsighted very close to my roped leading(when I didn't have anyone to climb with)but never forgot that day. And down climbed, and practiced down climbing everything from boulder problems to top-ropes and various multi-pitch routes, etc. Easy and hard.
This might sound stupid and odd, but I once onsight free soloed a 10b/c fist crack with the crux over 100ft off the deck, and then for some reason balked at finishing the next 30ft of 5.6 finger crack, and reversed the crux and down climbed to the ground. I wasn't pumped or scared, just had that(for lack of a better word)intuition to go back down(and I new I could). But I am alive to spray about it...eh!
It's a sketchy game at best. And the more you do it the more you'll want to do it(yeah I know Wes, that's what your girlfriend said)lol. But then I'm just a noob...just sayin!!
edit: I recall Royal Robbins doing allot of soloing in the Valley during the early and mid 70's. G. Meyer's once told me he saw Royal free solo The Meat Grinder one morning('75/76?). One day a bunch of friends were with me down at a newly developed/developing crag in the Valley and RR was running around and onsight soloing all the routes. He got to the crux on this one corner(5.9 then/10b now)and hesitated after several attempts of surpassing this small roof about 45-50ft. off the deck. Finally he glanced down at all of us rubber-neckers and asked if any of us would care to belay him. One of the gals immediately cried out "I will Mr. Robbins, I'll do it Royal!" Lol. Had allot of fun with her after that..."I will Mr. Robbins, I'll DO IT Royal!" Haha.
The point being, after more than twenty five years of climbing and soloing, Royal had the ability and the knowledge of how and when to retreat. It doesn't happen over night.
And only do it for your own pleasure/self...because no matter what you think you here...nobody real gives a damn lynne, cept Jesus!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 25, 2010 - 10:25am PT
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Alright! Way to stay psyched!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Aug 25, 2010 - 10:36am PT
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when we surmount new horizons,
awe, wonder and fulfillment jump from our heart.
with each success we are drawn toward the next mystery, seeking the kickasse gift of personal growth.
highball bouldering. rope soloing. walling. solo walling. slacking. base jumping.... on and on we venture, shrinking with each triumph until, at last, we are complete.
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jstan
climber
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Aug 25, 2010 - 11:37am PT
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Fascinating thread from a sociological standpoint. A clear separation into two camps. This clearly confirms something we have long suspected. Those who are sensation centered and those who are not.
In the first two minutes each of us is on the rock for the first time we make a decision. Do I decide to ignore fear or do I listen to it? Sensations are great but are gone in a few minutes. A broken neck tends to stick around somewhat longer.
Coz mentions one should always be able to climb down what one has just climbed up. Why is it this most basic truth is so seldom expressed? As to Ed ever thinking about making a name climbing that is much like wondering if a railroad locomotive sometimes wishes it could prance among the daisies.
I have watched "famous" climbers trying to deal with the way others try to interact with them. No one in their right mind would want to be in that position,
You see the youngsters, full of talent and hope approach, somehow still wanting something. Absurd, in that they already have everything for which one could ask; life, strength, and energy. The person being approached knows the youngsters are vulnerable and somehow has to guess the right thing to say. I think we know why John Muir wished he had never had to come down out of the mountains.
Watch the Chuck Pratt interview. Throughout, mentally, he is edging toward the mountains in the background.
We are back to Largo's picture of the hands. A fundamental and deep seated flaw in the human psyche.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 25, 2010 - 03:14pm PT
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Coolness, next time take a picture.
What are you doing tomorrow? wanna try a side of Wyde?
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Aug 25, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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"Next time take a picture."
I can just picture Lynne 3/4 of the way up Generator Crack with her right arm sticking out over the void taking a self portrait.
THAT would be "COOLNESS"!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 25, 2010 - 04:01pm PT
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late to this thread-- congrats, lynnie.
coz's advice is good. be sure you can reverse the moves. unless yr still living in testosterone-fest land, with stacks of pads, hi-balling is like a less committing version of soloing.
my first trip to bleau, i saw two women at cuvier climbing (among other things) the classic highball called "prestat." it was a woman and her daughter.
the daughter was a retired schoolteacher in her middle sixties. i didn't ask her mom's age.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
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Love Gasoline said it all....right climb at the right time. I don't plan on making a career hi/low ball bouldering. There's too much else to do here. It's like being a kid in a candy shop really.
Thanks for all the advice too. Appreciate it. I weigh it all of course. But I learn from much of it. Cheers, Lynne
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 25, 2010 - 05:50pm PT
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Awesome Lynn. Hopefully that highball will be emblematic of the newer chapters in your life.
And thank you for sharing. So far you have 75 or 76 positive comments and only one negative. I'd say that's a pretty good track record.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 25, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
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WHEE HOOOOO, LYNNE!!
Be careful there girl.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2010 - 08:00pm PT
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Fat Dad, right 'o ..... it is most certainly emblematic of the new chapter(s) of life just as the job at TPR is. What a great crew to work for and with, by the way. Thanks to hossjulia who introduced me to the boss man!!!
Dee ee, yo knew me from way back.....so cautious I could hardly enjoy the challenges of life. Now I am "healthy cautious." I have grand kiddos growing up I want to play with. :DD
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 26, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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TPR?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!