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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 22, 2010 - 02:27pm PT
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Locker, no one climbing in that picture.
Most people are smart enough to stay off that route. Carson did it in 1982 and to my knowledge that's it. One ascent. Yer gonna die!!
On the FA the first protection was a mank pin driven up under a flake over a really bad landing. Ron replaced that with a bolt due to popular demand and still no one did it (if anyone here knows of a second ascent post up!)
For scale, from the bottom of the picture to the top is about 225 feet, so you can see the whole first pitch aand the start of the second.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 22, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Jeff Foott's "original" Patio Pinnacle route is still listed in the Reid guidebook as "only" a 5.8; I climbed the route a long time ago, and thought that it was a real sandbag at that grade. It isn't at all easy, and I felt that it was probably equal to "Marginal' on the Grack in terms of difficulty and commitment. Just my humble 2 cents worth....
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flakyfoont
Trad climber
carsoncity nv
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:04pm PT
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Dont have any pictures, but....BITD, down by The" Bear Crag" is a dome with golden glacier polish like toulumne. There are maybe a dozen climbs all
slab routes, with 5 to 7 bolts in 165'. On 1 climb I originally had only 2 bolts in 165' . The 1st bolt was up around 65' off the deck. piss easy 5.6 until just below 1st bolt then a 5.8 move before you could clip it. Next bolt at about 95' also with a 5.9 move just before you could clip it. Some of the route gods climbed it afterwards and deemed it too dangerous.
I got slandered, and caved , then added 1 bolt at 55' just below the 1st 5.8 move. It made me feel like crap to have added that extra bolt as a public service.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:19pm PT
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But why did you wait till it got harder to place a bolt?? Seems like you were trying to be a hard man ground up tough guy.. Did you have something to prove? 65 feet killed Bachar.
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:33pm PT
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I can see that, Ron. But why climb 65 ft and even bother with bolts?
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Aug 22, 2010 - 04:40pm PT
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Step 1 - Find line you want to do.
Step 2 - Spend lots of time looking up at line when local hotshots are nearby.
Step 3 - Make vague comments to local hotshots about how a new line seems feasible.
Step 4 - Start rumor about impending arrival of visiting hotshots and their plans on doing said line.
Step 5 - Wait...
Step 6 - Bingo! Local hotshots put up new slab route! Your line is bolted!
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flakyfoont
Trad climber
carsoncity nv
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Aug 22, 2010 - 05:08pm PT
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I drilled where there were stances. It was also at my comfort level back then.
And it would had been a slab slide fall onto the deck ..
Ron, this is not the steep volcanic rock of the Bear Crag, it is sierra batholith granite exposed by glaceirs
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Chinchen
climber
Way out there....
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Aug 22, 2010 - 05:53pm PT
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Well a ground up FA or two is definitely on my list. Props to anyone who has the balls to go for it.
Jason
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CF
climber
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Aug 22, 2010 - 08:50pm PT
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or you could drill a 1/4 inch bolt ladder, put in a anchor, tr the sh#t out of it figuring where the clips go, pull the 1/4 inchers, fill holes, place 3/8th
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Aug 22, 2010 - 08:55pm PT
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Kris, I get your point but the first pitch of most Dome Rock climbs hardly count as slab. (makes the routes even the more impressive)
In the words of Andy the Pakistani,
"Werry werry wertical!"
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 23, 2010 - 03:07am PT
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How do you put up slab routes, or any routes for that matter.
Easy, you just climb.
Take it as it comes, anything less is just posing.
Here is one of the few photos I took of this weekends project.
As I started placing this bolt, it began to rain just a tad, so I started tapping faster. When it was in I took a moment to snap this shot. Lucky for me the rain stopped and I pressed on. As I started tapping the next bolt which was even further than this one it started to hail... and rain. I tapped alot faster! Then promptly bailed. I returned (sunday) to finish it off.
The first pitch of a route on a dome is almost always the hardest. Lucky for me, I found this splitter overhanging 100ft hand and finger crack which started things off nicely. It's amazing what you find when you venture past the "Pork Circus Perimeter".
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 23, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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TGT said: Kris, I get your point but the first pitch of most Dome Rock climbs hardly count as slab. (makes the routes even the more impressive)
In the words of Andy the Pakistani,
"Werry werry wertical!"
Too Strong used to call anything less than vertical a "Homo Route." Hidetaka picked up the phrase without knowing the meaning. This led to a very funny incident when Hidetaka on sighted Kalashnikov Culture in Indian Cove. When he topped out he turned to look down at the assembled group of climbers and tourons, threw a fist to the sky and yelled with great excitement: "Homo Route!!"
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Aug 23, 2010 - 03:25pm PT
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“or you could drill a 1/4 inch bolt ladder, put in a anchor, tr the sh#t out of it figuring where the clips go, pull the 1/4 inchers, fill holes, place 3/8th”
Why on Earth would anyone want to put up a route like THAT??? That’s F’ed.
You’ve got to figure out the moves and clips on lead, BEFORE you start drilling. And if you can’t do the moves, you don’t drill and you come back and try again.
May I suggest an arsenal of Hurricanes, a McDevitt Hammer, and C4 rubber? More new holes tomorrow…
Hey Sal… You still want to duel???
Placed a 3/8” x 1 7/8” 4-piece into bulletproof gold polish on lead a week or so ago and had the thing clipped in 3:58, timed by Mr. Bennett. And that was with a semi-dull HSS bit. First 3 3/8” of the pitch were all placed in under 5 minutes each, with the same bit, and the third bolt was a SS 2 1/4”. Forget the skinny bolts; let’s go 3/8”!!! SDS vs. HSS… Well?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 24, 2010 - 01:59am PT
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Sometimes you do end up with a route that doesn't get to the top. Kris Solem, Guy Keesee and I put this line up at Courtright on Voyager Dome. It is called The Gold Standard and is at least 12c and has had only two clean leads that I know of. But just because it doesn't finish doesn't mean that it isn't a worthy test piece. I think we spent an hour or so deciding that it was worth heading up onto.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 24, 2010 - 11:08am PT
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Yeah that was a good one. No way to tope rope it, and no way to really top out.
I recall seeing in some Brit mag a description of a route over there which ended similarly. The writer said "obviously the crux lies above..."
Erickson led it one season. Is he in your count?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 24, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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If you can stand, you can drill. It is simply a matter of how bad the holds are and how much you would like to keep climbing.
If you are really curious about the methods of on-stance drilling just imagine stopping for fifteen or twenty minutes on those footholds at every clip on a route! You will quickly realize the compelling appeal of runouts! LOL
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Aug 24, 2010 - 11:44am PT
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Awesome picture Jan! You guys amaze me.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Aug 24, 2010 - 12:02pm PT
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The Gold Standard went up using hooks to drill from. In the pic Jan posted you can see I have aiders, and a thin zip line to pull up the hand drill and hammer (yes, the climbing was too hard to carry even that little bit of weight, at least for me.)
I think the important thing to understand once you make the decision to hook, which is after all aid, is that once you set and weight a hook you do not then begin moving up further on hooks. Typically a good enough edge to hook will be a good enough edge to clip from (or you are just plain screwed.) I've seen bad things happen when a leader switches from free to aid, and aids up on a series of hooks and then drills the bolt.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Aug 24, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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Kris, I was counting you and E. I have done it clean on follow and I don't think anyone else has done it except maybe Guy who I think followed E up it.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Aug 25, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
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Hey Sal… You still want to duel???
Placed a 3/8” x 1 7/8” 4-piece into bulletproof gold polish on lead a week or so ago and had the thing clipped in 3:58, timed by Mr. Bennett. And that was with a semi-dull HSS bit. First 3 3/8” of the pitch were all placed in under 5 minutes each, with the same bit, and the third bolt was a SS 2 1/4”. Forget the skinny bolts; let’s go 3/8”!!! SDS vs. HSS… Well?
Holy shizz! That seems pretty quick, but I've never timed myself and I've never placed a 1 7/8in bolt. I'd like to duel it out just to check out your drilling rig. If there's anything I can do to speed up my drilling, I'm game. I'm finding that pushing the numbers on lead is really dependant on how fast you can drill.
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