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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 21, 2005 - 10:20pm PT
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"Turbo Flange to the Edge" means MR soloed the entire edge, bottom to top, which is about 350 feet of the most insecure climbing imaginable. Nothing at all you can muscle--and the lower "Turbo Flange" bit is a full bore barn door lyback with your feet up by your hands, left hand pawing nothing at all, with everything else oozing off polished white granite.
Most hard solos have at least some holds but desperate moves. On the Flange, there's no holds to speak of for about 120 feet.
It's not the difficulty but the radical insecurity that makes this route a mind f%$k.
Fact is, I can't picture the cordless ascent of this . . . but I've been wrong before, and I've climbed with MR and know he can pull down, so guess I have to believe MR.
JL
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Oct 22, 2005 - 12:33am PT
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"The bit about him (Tony) being a beginner is pure rubish. "
Let's be clear. He was obviously not a beginner. He was simply enrolled in a beginning rock climbing class at PUC. Twenty years later I attended this school and heard the story first hand from Jim Hansen, the teacher of the class. Tony was quiet and sat in the back corner. "He was really good with his knots" Jim said. Toward the end of the quarter they took a class field trip to The Bubble on Mt. St. Helena to do some top roping. Tony tied in and hiked all the steep overhanging routes (5.9-5.11). Hansen says "You've climbed before haven't you?" Tony smiles, "Yeah."
I didn't know about the fixed pins. Makes sense though.
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Burns
Trad climber
Arlington, VA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 22, 2005 - 12:45am PT
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wildone-
I think masters of stone 4 (or 5) has a video of Ron Kauk on Magic Line. Quite impressive.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
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Oct 22, 2005 - 12:49am PT
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I don't know much about MR, although he doesn't appear to have many self-esteem issues...
The video of him soloing EBGB's sort of speaks for itself, other disputed claims notwithstanding.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Oct 22, 2005 - 01:28am PT
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"..When you talk to guys like Mo who is the real deal and actually climbs, (unlike largo who does not) you don't get the political side stepping cr@p that largo pulls....."
And what is that supposed to mean? What did Mo say?
Y'all want to slander MR? Fine. I'm just gonna sit back and let the smoke clear and we'll see who did what. And I think you're all in for a surprise...
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 22, 2005 - 01:45am PT
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Who is the Mo?
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Oct 22, 2005 - 01:57am PT
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Geez! I'd just like to see the equinox footage! Where can a bro get hooked up?
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Ditch Trad
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 22, 2005 - 11:05am PT
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Watusi-your wish!
acopausa dot com /
My all time list-
Alpine-Heckmair, et al. Eiger
Solo-Gullich, Separate Reality...oh yeah, Kurt Albert, too.
Rock- Salathe, either the Sentinel or Lost Arrow...
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Straight Outta Squamton
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Oct 23, 2005 - 01:41pm PT
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Regarding the Equinox free-solo "footage", I have to say I was pretty disappointed. It's not "footage";
it's a iMovie slide-show of stills set to music. All of the photos are of either below or above the
steep crux section. So why is there video footage of him soloing EBGB's but not Equinox?
Or at the very least, why no photos of him in the steep section? I'm a little confused...
Since I'm on a dial-up at home, I clicked on the smaller version.
The audio is AAC (Apple proprietary audio codec) and the video is MPEG-4,
both of which require a late version of QuickTime 6, and possibly even QT 7.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 23, 2005 - 02:02pm PT
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I clicked the hi-speed option and it came right up, I'm running QT7.
Like HK said real, motion would be better, but I'll kNot(spelling changed to avoid copywright infringement, made a xerox on the escalator, too) quible, it's pretty cool as it is, made me scared, remembered how it felt With a rope.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 24, 2005 - 11:56am PT
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Locker wrote: "this from Jtreeclimb states that JL does not actually believe MR as he sort of claimed...... "That diplomatic sidestep, "so guess I have to believe MR" may be what he said in public, however I just called him and in private the story is different. He said the same thing to me as he stated several months ago... he called BS on his spray. He agrees that MR may have soloed some of what is on his spray list but has padded his resume. When you talk to guys like Mo who is the real deal and actually climbs, (unlike largo who does not) you don't get the political side stepping cr@p that largo pulls.......now I question if this is actually true and say "Speak up"... say one thing on line, then another??? Which is true???...
Be real or STFU!!!... (And I am one to speak???...)"
Huh? I'm thinking "the English" is your 5th language 'cause I can't make NO sense out of that babbling. Are you saying you spoke to me on the phone? And when would that have been, Locker?
JL
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Peewee
Trad climber
Quebec
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Oct 24, 2005 - 02:50pm PT
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How about Dihedral Wall freed by Caldwell? It's probably the hardest long free route in the world... I bet you it's gonna take a while before it gets a second ascent... I think it's one of the proudest send in the last decade!
The Azeem Ridge on G. Trango is total badass too!
Peter Croft solo of Astroman and Rostrum in a day (and that's when Astroman was still one the hardcore free routes in the Valley)
Henry Barber onsight solo of Steck Salathe... super badass for the 70's
Dean Potter solo ascent of Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy
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wildone
climber
right near the beach, boyeee (lord have mercy)
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Oct 24, 2005 - 03:17pm PT
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classic.
John-you still riding?
Two weekends ago, I went climbing in San Ysidro Canyon, and a group of about 25 muni riders came down the trail, all great guys and girls, but I didn't see you. I made some rubber recommendations to one dude who was running a tire I used to use for my dh bike, told him about the serfas sticky rubber..
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 24, 2005 - 04:17pm PT
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Wildon wrote:
"classic.
John-you still riding?
Two weekends ago, I went climbing in San Ysidro Canyon, and a group of about 25 muni riders came down the trail, all great guys and girls, but I didn't see you. I made some rubber recommendations to one dude who was running a tire I used to use for my dh bike, told him about the serfas sticky rubber.. "
Yeah, I was there. That was the California Muni Weekend and there were about 55 riders all told, from all over the US. I was the trail leader, trying to make sure folks didn't ride off the cliff (a few did), so I was moving up and back all day for 4 days. The SB trails are a bit more gnarly than the normal Muni fare, but the riders did great and we had a blast.
JL
JL
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 24, 2005 - 10:24pm PT
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I appreciate you taking the effort to clear that up, Locker, and now I feel small and mean for poking fun at you with that drinking and gassing live animals wisecrack.
Even though my mind can't quite get around some of MR's solos, that's surely because I haven't been a balls-to-the-walls climber in years. God knows the man climbs well and solos a ton.
If MR did solo all those routes, good on him. If not, nothing makes it my business. That's not "diplomatic" from my perspective, it's just that it's basically meaningless to me.
Soloing is an experiential thing, and beyond the experience there's not much more to it.
JL
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mtwoodsonguide
Big Wall climber
San Diego
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Oct 25, 2005 - 01:32am PT
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Not to mention the left feet on Turbo Flage are likely to break.
Whats Reardon's webpage address?
I climbed Thuderbolt to Sill in mid August.
When did he do the palisade traverse. If it was before mid August I'd have to ask- why didn't he sign any summit registers?
I'm kind of doubting the Palisade traverse thing myself, thats a frickin long as way.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Oct 25, 2005 - 03:11am PT
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Ditch Trad...I just keep getting this "Quick Time needs additional software that is not available on the server at this time"...maybe 20 times! I really just wanted to see this, I myself led this route in the '80's and am aware of how monumental this solo is...
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 26, 2005 - 01:07am PT
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I just saw it and it works in Quick time.
But it doesn't make any sense. There is no sequence of moves, only the climber positioned in the same place near the start and near the top. Where is the actual hardest crux on equinox?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 26, 2005 - 01:16am PT
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Watusi/locker I've had it work, highspeed version, on astound and SBC,via QT, the 'needed software' may be at the QT part of the apple site (has versions for either platform) unless it's other software that the server itself needs to upgrade to. Plan b go hassle the animal nickname guy, if he's running OSX he can probably launch it and you get better play by play, to boot.
Werner-it's definatley not a documentation, the crux is between those parts, for me, it would be scary enough to be solo on the parts shown,though. But it's not like the photographer was belaying, or something. Probably had to reload film during the crux, yeah that's it.
We will never know.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Oct 26, 2005 - 01:56am PT
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So let's see. You figure he climbed up to the crux no rope then go rescued. Then he lowered down to just above the crux and cut the rope loose and finished it? WTF?
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