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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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Isn't the Rock of Gibraltar limestone?
Or maybe I'm thinking of the one Billy Davidson climbed in the Rockies.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 25, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
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I'm gonna punch the next book that lies to my face. Yeah, show it who's boss.
Yeah, Luke, I have no idea where that nonsense started, but you should definitely kick sh#t out of any book that reprints it.
Here's a shot of the biggest chunk of granite I've personally ever seen. Almost exactly 7,000 ft from base to summit. And it was surrounded by thousands -- yes, literally thousands -- of other lumps bigger than the Squamish Chief. And I know there are plenty of even bigger granite lumps that I haven't seen. But try telling that to your local Chamber of Commerce.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 26, 2013 - 12:07am PT
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Anybody know who the climber chiqua is in the clip ?
It's Amy Chernoff. I think she still lives in town, although I havn't seen her around in a few years.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 26, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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whoa - are you saying that spur in the middle is 7000 feet? Thats a big route! Anybody climbed it? Thats in the weasel valley isn't it?
Yes, it's Mt. Odin. Base is about 200 feet above sea level, and summit is over 7K. The smaller thing on the left is about 4,500. (Which, for the mathematically challenged Californians who occasionally visit this thread, is about one-and-a-half-times the height of El Cap.)
Odin is pretty much the easiest-to-get-to peak on Baffin Island, and there are some moderate routes to the summit, but it is so f*#king off-the-charts huge that most people just pretend they haven't seen it and roll on up the valley to things that humans can understand.
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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Jan 26, 2013 - 02:52am PT
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Looks like I have to seriously ramp up my training schedule....
Problem is Lance Armstrongs doctor has not been returning my phone calls
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 26, 2013 - 03:33am PT
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MH2 now that you are retired krank meister are you heading down south to warmer climes like Rolf?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 26, 2013 - 10:35am PT
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MH2
climber
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Jan 26, 2013 - 12:45pm PT
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MH2 now that you are retired krank meister are you heading down south to warmer climes like Rolf?
Sure! Me 'n' a group are gonna invade the man's Palm Springs peace 'n' quiet. Or at least road trip to the Richmond Oval.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2013 - 12:54pm PT
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Not drywall! At least it's hanging and not taping!!!
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MH2
climber
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Jan 26, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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Just try to end up in the right State, Bruce.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 27, 2013 - 12:15am PT
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Hey RyanD
I enjoyed the bouldering promo which you posted a couple of days ago. Likely it fell mostly on deaf ears! In the interest of full disclosure, I should state that a couple of years ago, that's in 2011, waaaay baaaack in the Good Old Days, I spent a few weeks hanging out with some Pad People. They were interested to learn about the Vermin Minus Scale, which was new to them. That's the scale that goes from V0 down to V Minus10. This new scale allows for entry-level problems, for those unable/unwilling to heel-hook at shoulder height or higher. Very handy!
In return I learned several important lessons from them:
.....According to the North Face Climbing Team, [or one similar?] the bouldering in Tuzgle is supposedly the best so far discovered in South America. Hmmmmmm. There are several videos of Tuzgle on the web, but none of us, of course. Check 'em out
.....Bouldering pads make excellent wind-breaks, esp if it is your turn to cook supper, outside of course, you are at 4,000+ metres, it is the middle of winter, there is a minor hurricane blowing, and the wind-chill factor is around -200C.
.....Pad People are people too!
.....You can't teach an old dog new tricks. Actually I did know that one before.
So here's a few pix:
This is a mini Trigger Finger waiting to happen.
The sign is supposed to read "No Climbing. May fall [over]". That refers to the rock, not to you!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 27, 2013 - 11:31am PT
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Cool pics Ham-wich!
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Jan 27, 2013 - 01:08pm PT
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"The Dream", a Peder Ourom mega classic three pitch ice route. Looks like we've all been snoozing! That dosn't come in often and it came and went. The Dream is probably the finest ice route that ever forms around here.
Love your story about The Dream Bruce. I hadn't heard it in it's entirety. I've been told we may have inadvertently done the second ascent of it about four winters ago. We were scooped by another faster party approaching A Scottish Tale. In stead of waiting around for them to go up and down, since it's such a shooting gallery gully, we thrashed over to the right to kill some time playing on a little ice streak we'd seen over there on the approach.
After scratching our way up the first pitch to a surprise bolt anchor, we realized it may actually go higher than it originally appeared. The ice was thin and neither of us had climbed in a couple of seasons, so we managed to scare ourselves a bit silly scratching up a corner and chimney with ice not even thich enough to sink a stubby screw into. Luckily we'd brought a few cams and three pins, so each time we were just about to tuck tail and run, we'd get in something decent and talk our selves into checking out the next few metres.
We were both pleasntly surprised to discover what we had actually climbed when we got back down and looked in the guidebook. Later we were told that it may not have seen an ascent since it's FA eight or nine years previous. It rarely comes in, and when it does it's pretty short lived. I'd highly reccommend it if you ever see it form up again.
K
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
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Hamie, awesome!
I enjoyed the bouldering promo which you posted a couple of days ago. Likely it fell mostly on deaf ears!
This isn't true. Nothing here falls on deaf ears. I thoroughly enjoy each and every contribution to this thread. It keeps me coming back and stoked on contributing!!
So thank you to everyone here!!
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MH2
climber
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Jan 27, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
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Good stories Bruce and Kris.
Hamie,
Did you climb this one? I don't see any no climbing sign.
Or is it the same rock from another side?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
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the kid and I went lookin in our backyard for some tasty lines and found this finger crack, possibly a project for the next generation.
felt like v15 right off the ground..
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:12pm PT
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Hamie, thanks! Looks like a killer bouldering trip you guys had BITD, looks like a pretty wild remote place, amazing rocks too! How did you find the change of pace on a pebble trip compared to an expedition style or cragging/wall type climbing trip?
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Danny G
climber
Squamish, BC
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:27pm PT
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Can anyone recommend some short aid climbs (1-3 pitches) to practice nailing on?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jan 27, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
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Re: practice nailing
Dannys seem hasn't had an FA yet, judging by the name it probably takes lots of blades.
go find it and report back
EDIT!
On a slightly more more serious note. There are not really any routes that fit your description. There is not really such thing as practice nailing, but when you must nail things are probably starting to get serious but you should be practicing "nail as little as possible" ethics.
The five easiest walls in Squamish go completely clean.
Routes on the pan wall (son of pan and pan granitic frogman) should provide some stout nailing. But a long ways from what I'd call practise.
Edge of pan has gone free so no nailing please.
Lost at sea fits your description fairly well, 3 pitches (off the dance platform) with some nailing on the 2nd and third pitches.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jan 27, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
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Heard some creepy news. Six skulls were found in the Grand Wall forest by the stone carving yesterday, kids' skulls. I don't see it in the news yet...
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