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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Sep 10, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
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"Old and fading" like the webbing on the Iron Hawk momento.
Seriously, Grosseman, can't you find anything better to do than faff around trying to place a cam in the dark? Facetiously, I meant facetiously, not seriously.
Great story, good bump. Combine this thread with others like my Hexcentric Life thread (other suggestions appreciated, folks) and we are all weaving the fabric of this sport's history.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Sep 26, 2012 - 10:19am PT
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I am sorry Steve, two times sorry… There is not any Gendarme hex in the Nuts Museum and… I have never heard about these beautiful chocks… I thought that I knew all about the Gendarme Nuts. For sure the Nuts Story is a never ending quest…
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Yes but we are hot on their trail...
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Topper Wilson
Trad climber
Pueblo, CO
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Steve G,
Gendarme nuts likely came from the climbing store "The Gendarme" at Seneca Rocks, W.VA. I believe John Markwell had a series of hexes and stoppers made in the mid to late 70's. I think they were made from aircraft aliminum, but I don't think many were sold. Chouinard made stoppers that had a more approriate angle (not as steep) and when the Hexentrics came out with a design that allowed for better camming, John may have just let his line go. Though John retired a few years ago, I'm sure you can reach him through the Seneca Rocks Climbing School; he loves to talk.
Topper
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topper- thanks for weighing in about the Gendarme Nuts. Try to get the man himself to post on this thread as I would love to hear his story. Hard to compete with the Chouinard extrusions and more granite friendly Stopper taper but the drive to actually make and sell nuts was very rare and special.
I would really like to connect with John so that I can put together a complete set of Gendarme nuts for the Oakdale Climbers Festival 2014 where I would like to lay the evolution of nuts on display for all to appreciate as I did for the various piton makers this year. The history of when and why completes the nutstory as my Corsican friend like to say.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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There is nothing better than a great nut placement!
Am I nuts?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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It takes balls to use a micronut at the crux of a traditionally protected 13b/c!!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 10, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Nice shot!
What no Screamer on the wire?!?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Nov 10, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
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Those darn boulderers don't need no stinking screamers!!! This is Ben H same guy who just sent dream catcher
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 21, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
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Kids these days, they just don't value a runout! LOL
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Jan 21, 2013 - 07:52pm PT
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Bump for hardcore climber gear!
Sometimes I will lead older routes on passive gear only. It help me appreciate those that put the routes up, and the technology that we enjoy today.
But I will admit it makes me preeeety nervous. Ha!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 22, 2013 - 09:35am PT
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Another bump for relevant climbing content.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2013 - 02:26pm PT
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One of my favorite bumps...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 17, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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Kids these days, they just don't value a runout! LOL
;) not true Steve! I wish i was at home (duh) I have a picture of the slab above, another 10m to the anchor at about 11- not a piece of of pro in sight till you get there!!
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Mar 17, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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I'm not sure if I have seen this style of nut on these threads. It's a Metolius version of a Hexentric. It's still new and has the tag on it. On the ends, one end is concave and one is convex, like a stopper although it does not show in the photo well.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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Big Mike- I am entirely kidding, of course. I savor the thrill in climbing and still enjoy the space in between. While one is young and unfettered, grabbing the tiger by the tail on sight is as good as it gets!
Looking back, I wouldn't trade the feeling of being a hungry and unstoppable force for anything. Pure Spirit...
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Mar 17, 2013 - 06:50pm PT
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Just for the heck of it today I cut a 5/8" Chouinard baby angle into a chock. It was easy to drill a hole on the spine of it but then I realized if I drill a side or both sides, it can be flipped and used to easily nest with small stopper type nuts or anything else - thinking primarily for aid, although I think everything would be stable enough for free pro, while clipping to whatever is nested with the baby angle. The hole was drilled in the spine at first because I envisioned not inserting the entire chock within a crack. 3rd pick shows the quick jig I rigged on a drill press to drill the pin. The other clamps are not connected with this task. Another baby angle volunteered!
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