MARTY KARABIN'S MESSAGE TO ALL CLIMBERS

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karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2016 - 01:38pm PT

Wayne Turner has been climbing at the gym purposely sporting his mint condition Fickeroo chalk bag. He put chalk into it, faint…..he throws it on the ground, faint…..he falls onto it in the bouldering area, faint…..The Fickeroo chalk bag was made by Phoenix local hard man legend John Ficker and his wife in the late 1980s(?)/ early 1990s. When I first learned to climb, it was on thin granite face routes put up by John Ficker. A Ficker route requires a still mind for success, or you take the 50 foot whipper! I had a Fickeroo rope bag and for its time it was the best rope bag on the market especially for a speed soloing down weight. I dragged that rope bag up and down over 40,000 feet of rock face and it lasted over 10 years. Wayne donated his KONG figure 8 to the Museum, but he still sports his chalk bag in style!

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2016 - 02:37pm PT

Another experienced climber falls. On May 15th 2016, Scott Early was the climber on top rope climbing up when he fell near the top and the gear did not hold. My interest with Scott is not being the detective finding out the accident details, but more his spiritual experience of this situation from the day of the accident to six months from now, so I visited him in the hospital.

Fall happens Sunday on the Main Wall, Oak Flat East in the Queen Creek Canyon area near Superior AZ. Top rope gear was set up on existing bolts and this was the third route the climbers set up. Scott fell 30 feet and luckily lands in a flat area in between the boulders. From the moment Scott fell he does not remember falling or hitting the ground and was unconscious for around 4 minutes. Helicopter single line took him over to the Warm Up Boulders area, then a second helicopter flew him to a hospital in Mesa. Scott now suffers from a L4 vertebra fracture, shattered heels and feet, and a fractured sternum. The sternum has been repaired and the vertebra has been repaired but his feet are still too swelled up for surgery, but he is out of the hospital and is home. A gofundme web page has been set up under “Scott Early’s medical bills.”

To me it looks like climber failure since none of the gear is broken. Still no word on what exactly happened, but for now better to positively concentrate on the 6+ months of healing over looking for more reasons to be upset.

When I went to visit Scott in the hospital, I felt I needed to bring him something cool so I brought along the greatest book overall, “The Vertical World of Yosemite” by Galen Rowell. This book was donated to me by Steve Sales and he said “it is a book that needs to be in every museum.” So here it is thursday evening and the Karabin Museum now has no Vertical World book. Friday comes along and I get a Facebook post from Dana Hollister, who is a old school climbing legend going back to the Stonemaster era. Dana is inquiring if I have a book named “the Vertical World of Yosemite” in the museum. Like what a totally wild coincidence! I feel like there are climber spirits at work and they are insisting on the book being in the Museum. Dana goes on to tell me that the book is signed by Galen Rowell and by Warren Harding. Also Dana has personal letters from Warren Harding to add to the Museum.

“So listen well and give and you will be rewarded greater.”
—This story is an example of this spiritual understanding?

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2016 - 03:43pm PT

South Mountain Park/Preserve

On the south end of the city of Phoenix AZ is South Mountain Park/Preserve, a mountain that is covered in boulders. Since the beginning rangers were allowing climbing, then not allowing climbing, then allowing climbing again, then not allowing climbing. The Pima Canyon wash was created for bouldering! It is wonderful! At the end of 2009 climbing was accepted in Pima Canyon through meetings with the rangers and council members. A MK South Mtn climbing guide was published January 2010 to keep everybody on the same page. Over the years climbers enjoyed Pima canyon with little confrontations with the rangers. The rangers are totally cool, but they carry the rules book. Many years have passed and now climbing on South Mtn is being questioned. Meetings have started again. The good thing is that a public input process was put in place and everybody can be heard as the rules book is being written. The next big meeting is in the fall. For now I am creating a guide to give to the council, which educates them on “what is climbing and bouldering.” Curt Shannon from the Access Fund attended and Laurel and Manny from the Concerned Climbers of AZ attended. These planning meetings are also about future trail usage for hikers and mtn bikers.

MK Facebook Post:
Tonight was the second of two South Mtn usage plan meetings. The first order of business is to get climbing recognized as a user. Second is to recognize the areas that are already being enjoyed by climbers, and legally be allowed to climb there. I took their planning map, my coloring pens, and 1 1/2 hours later, we are now user recognized. The rangers totally love this climbing statement and probably will frame it and hang it in their office! Message Delivered!!! So for the “Recognizing the Areas” portion, we need all good vibes from every climber, in Hope that our South Mtn climbing areas will all be included in the new User Plan. If you have recommendations for South Mtn, better send it like NOW to the SM planning group or rangers station because the rules are about to be set. I give a big applause to the South Mtn planning Group for including public input throughout this decision process!!!

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2016 - 03:16pm PT

So I must still have a big sign over my head stating “shit on me!” I am working through this years identity theft, now have two tooth root canals needed, 116 degrees and no air conditioning in the truck and now the windows won’t roll down, and today I discovered why my computer has always been a pain in the butt for me. I have been trying to purchase Moses Tomahawks for over two years but never receive a return mail from them. The email message always said “sent,” so it must have gone through. Wrong! AOL has two ways of getting on to their site, just go to AOL or use Safari to go to AOL. I always use the Safari AOL since the emails are broken into departments. The AOL way leaves all of the emails in one listing. When I get onto a company website and contact the mfg, their mail always goes through the AOL way, and not the Safari AOL way. What was happening is for the last 7 years, none of my mail which I sent through the AOL way was ever sent.

I contacted a AOL tech today which looked at my computer and said it was the network that was hacked, not AOL. I had over 700 running programs going, 743 of which I didn’t install into my computer. Maybe some viruses came through when my kids ordered video games. 5 of the viruses were undetected by Norton etc and they were programs that collected passwords, and all emails I sent out also were cc’d to the hackers without it showing. Good Times! Somebody outside of my computer also changed many of my locked passwords linking them to programs. So when the tech was able to unlock my regular AOL mail system, 2047 emails that I thought were sent in the last 7 years were never sent. But the computer said ….ding…”message delivered.”

So if anybody out there is upset at me for not returning their emails………………

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2016 - 03:16pm PT

Post 420.....cough!

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2016 - 05:52am PT

2016 Summer OR Show

Its time again for the summer 2016 Outdoor Retailers Show in Salt Lake City, Utah. Yeah!!! Once again I have partnered up with Omega Pacific Inc and they have allowed me a section of wall space for the display in their show booth. Thank you so much Omega Pacific for your ongoing museum support. Another huge THANKS goes to Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum for his assistance with the display and his ongoing support with the Karabin Climbing Museum. I am proud that the Nuts Museum is a part of this awesome Nuts display! This years display theme is “Mixed Nuts” and the display shows around 100 different nuts along with photos and historical information. If you are at the show, check out the Mixed Nuts display and please give a thanks to Omega Pacific Inc for supporting climbing history. The display is set up to be attached to a white slat wall system.

For this years show I created Mixed Nuts business cards so I can hand them out to everybody which will direct them to the display. I hope I don’t go too crazy with the cards but I already know they will be obnoxiously everywhere! I’m Psyched!

Coach37

Social climber

Philly

Jul 28, 2016 - 08:17am PT

That's a lot of stuff man!

OCD can be a wonderful thing.

Curt

climber

Gold Canyon, AZ

Jul 28, 2016 - 09:57am PT

And HAPPY BIRTHDAY, too !!

Curt

Ghoulwe

Trad climber

Spokane, WA

Jul 28, 2016 - 02:45pm PT

Looks great Marty, can't wait to stop by and see it next week!

Eric

Brian in SLC

Social climber

Salt Lake City, UT

Jul 28, 2016 - 03:15pm PT

Ditto that! See ya in sh#t lake salty!

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2016 - 04:56pm PT

Before I get to the 2016 Outdoor Retailers Show review, I want to catch up on a few things first.

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2016 - 04:57pm PT

June 27, 2015 my cousin Larissa got married to her groom Nicholas. I was there mainly for crowd support but just before the rehearsal dinner my sister noticed that I brought along my zebra camera, and she stated, “that camera is being put to work, move it!” We arrived at the church to meet the Priest and the Priest first told me that since I was not a part of the hired wedding camera crew, I had limited access so keep my distance. But then I made a climbing comment and it just so happened that he just got back from climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, and we fell into a great conversation which ended in him saying, “you for sure have full access to my church!” I felt like I was kid running around with my friend Jesus and we filmed everything!!! It was so much fun!!! I was allowed to use all of the wedding photos in my movie and the movie became a Christmas gift to all the wedding party peoples and relatives. I cut 100 movies total. So far out of all of the movies I have created, this “Forever Yours” movie is my greatest. Songs range from “Going to the Chapel,” to Skrillex “Cinema.”

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2016 - 05:14pm PT

C4AC Homestead

Mid 2015, the Access Fund purchased a limestone climbing area in southern AZ named the Homestead. Yeah!!! Improvements to the road into the crag are in the process, and in future years maybe a 2WD road can be constructed. The Homestead is an amazing climbing area which has tons of routes with runnels and hanging tufas. The AZ climbing community wanted to show its support to the Access Fund by creating a Homestead fundraiser named C4AC, or Climb for a Cause, Homestead. Tony Cadoran created a 12 hour climb-a-thon hosted by the Phoenix Rock Gym where climbing teams of four would climb all night raising extra monies to donate to the cause. The team who climbed the most roped routes will be awarded. Tony created a Homestead photo booth, a Raffe ticket items table, and in addition to the climbing event I was able to gather 20+ climbing gear and history items and created a silent auction. In the lead area climbers set up hammocks and porta ledges, but everybody ended up climbing through the night. Fun moments were night climbing by headlamp, and running through the Homestead bouldering traverse which was a work of course setting art for sure!!! At the end of the event, MC Robert Olson and myself called out for final bids and ran the awards ceremony. Blacksmith Paul Dief (PRG gym owner) created really cool climbing trophies for the winning team. The overall results are:
$5780.00 Team Fundraising
$2160.00 Silent Auction,
$281.00 Raffle sales,
$178.00 Additional donations

— $8399.00 was the Grand total raised for the Access Fund.

Thanks teams:
Team Tempe Dream Team: $1,450
Team Spicy Salsa Salad Toss (1 & 2): $1,080
Team SCAB Prime!: $1,050
Team All Night 5.9: $700
ASU Climbing Club: $600
Team Scraps!: $500
Hiking Shack Pups N’ Suds: $400

Nearly 14 vertical miles were climbed. Tempe Dream Team (Focus Climbing Center) were total mutants still climbing 5.12s eleven hours later. Incredible endurance guys. I bow to your dominating strength!

Thanks to all of the sponsors that helped make this event a great success!!!!!!

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2016 - 09:41pm PT

At Christmas time I received a box covered in duct tape with a gift from Tony Cadoran inside. He felt bad that he over bid me in the Homestead C4AC silent auction, when he knew that I was hot for that Access Fund pin. Tony didn’t know that just after the Homestead C4AC event, the Access Fund sent me the gold pin as a donation to the museum. I was glad to have the Beth Rodden signed La Sportiva hat with AF pin, but I recycled it to gain more monies for the Access Fund in the upcoming Queen Creek Boulder Comp #3 (QCBC). Thanks Tony for the energy! Big thanks back to Tony for all of his volunteer dedication to the climbing community.

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 14, 2016 - 09:43pm PT

--Facebook Post
February 20, 2016. Saturday morning we had a memorial for John Scott at the Lost Wall in Upper Devils Canyon. We installed a plaque at the base of the route “Projectiles,” which now the route name has been changed to “Great Scott.” The new name is reflected in the new Upper Devils Canyon #4 MK climbing guide. Big THANKS to Carolyn Langlois for making this memorial happen. John lead the route Projectiles on February 23, 2014, and while at the base of the route a rock fell from the top and killed John on the spot. Thanks to everybody who was able to attended the memorial. Please everybody, be careful out there!

………………………………………………..

Upper Devils Canyon - Lost Wall, Superior AZ. I had the honors of installing the plaque for the memorial. The route Projectiles was first ascended by Harvey Delos Reyes and Marty Karabin in January 1995. The new name for the route is “Great Scott.” What is interesting is that Harvey, who scored the very first lead on the route, goes by the nickname “Scott.” Carolyn did a good job putting the memorial together. Unfortunately she a few weeks ago broke her ankle while canyoneering. She just had surgery one week ago.

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2016 - 09:42pm PT

QCBC III, April 2, 2016

Queen Creek Boulder Comp III was awesome! Held at Oak Flat campground near Superior AZ, and the comp area was in Euro Dog Valley. Over 100 competitors attended and donated their skin and sweat for a place on the podium. 8 hour comp time and hundreds of problems to choose from. Top 8 problems for score. Perfect weather day! Big thanks to Tony Cadoran for directing the event, Kevin Fahey for assisting in the event and on the microphone, Greg Varela for course setting and rules with all of the boulder problems, and the many many others that volunteered their time to make this event happen! Additional thanks to Robert Olson and me for being the MC during the Homestead live auction, and calling out the final scores! Robert and I raised an additional $800+ toward the Homestead climbing area which was donated to the Access Fund.

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2016 - 10:07pm PT

Beta Boulder Blast IV, April 16, 2016

Time again for the Beta Boulder Blast held at Beta Bouldering Gym in Flagstaff AZ. Since I am old and in my 50s now, I play a different game at these comps and try to climb 75% of the routes offered in the comp. This year my performance was low and I only sent 28 of the problems which was only half of what they offered. I need to up my game! Top 5 for score, 2 1/2 hour comp time. Only three categories are offered, Beginner, advanced, and mutant. So already all of the local V10 climbers jump into the Advanced category making it almost impossible to win, but the climbing is great and I support climbing comps weather I place or not. I am still sending V6/V7 and I am lead setter at the Phoenix Rock Gym, so the beginner category is out of the question so I am in the “supporting the comp” category. The overall comp finishes with a keg of beer, and a finals male and female round for everybody to cheer. In the raffle I scored a Joshua Tree salve travel kit for the museum. I am psyched!

karabin museum

Trad climber

phoenix, az

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2016 - 02:27pm PT

I went back to check up on how Scott Early is healing from his climbing accident, and he is walking!! ......(this is where the drums go crazy with the solo, and balloons and confetti fall from the ceiling).

Charleston Heston speaking, "and...... HE IS WALKING!!!" 38 steps but getting there with still two very inflamed heels. Scott finished reading the Galen Rowell book, "The Vertical World of Yosemite," which should inspire anybody who even breathes climbing!!! and the new book I gave him is the Warren "Batso" Harding book, "Downward Bound: A Mad Guide To Rock Climbing." On this visit I supplied Scott with the large evolv chalk and evolv tape and evolv brush, so Scott will be supplied for his return to sending in the Masters Division! (repeat of Drums, confetti and balloons again!)