Woodfords Canyon

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Laine

Trad climber

Reno, NV

Feb 12, 2013 - 01:30pm PT

Footloose, is that the main aclove?

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2013 - 01:50pm PT

wml, yes 5.9 according to the lit.
laine, it seems to me above it but its categorized this way in this list...

main alcove: toprope wall

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=881711&msg=883188#msg883188

Wear pants!
Hit it first thing in the east sun.
If you do it, would like to read the report!

An onsight lead would be impressive! :)

EDIT

Anyone have a picture of Carabiner Crack?

JustThatEasy

climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Feb 13, 2013 - 12:32pm PT

Footloose and WML,

The Toprope Wall isn't really in the Main Alcove. It's quite a ways east and uphill. In terms of a climbing day it would make sense to combine this area with say the Red Pillar or, better, Serenity Now and it's neighboring climbs.

As far as the climb you highlighted, Footloose, it's not really an OW. It climbs more as a hand/fist crack and has some nice knobs for feet so it never gets terribly desperate or hard. A solid 5.9 seems appropriate. I usually bring two #3 camalots, one #3.5 and one #4 as my biggest piece. Also, hand size gear (and maybe slightly smaller?) is useful.

If you're up there and want to bump it up a letter or two you should climb Mission to Mars (.10-). It's located to the climber's left when starting up the first pitch of Serenity Now. It climbs on the same formation as Way the Hell Up There, about 200' to the climber's right of that line.

For Mission to Mars you'll want a #5 (new style) along with the gear I listed above. Look for a large right leaning ramp in a void (it makes sense when you see it) with a steep wall behind it. There's a large orange roof above the start. Stem up between the ramp and the steep wall (5.7 or 5.8,R) until you reach a horizontal 2" crack. Then turn the roof to the left and charge up the obvious corner to a 2-bolt anchor.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Feb 13, 2013 - 12:42pm PT

Just a question, why the anonymity?

JustThatEasy

climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Feb 13, 2013 - 01:16pm PT

Hey Kenny!

I'm not trying to be secretive, just haven't signed my name, haha. Glad to hear you're getting out. How are those new Totem's? I'm thinking of getting some.

Cheers,

Ryan

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Feb 13, 2013 - 01:22pm PT

I had a feeling that was you but didn't want to say it in case yer hiding from a female stalker haha. It's fun stuff up there, are you heading out any time soon? Oh the Totems seem really cool You can try mine one day.

JustThatEasy

climber

South Lake Tahoe, CA

Feb 13, 2013 - 01:42pm PT

I'm out in Durango right now, and then I'll probably be sent off to a job somewhere (hopefully). I'll hit you up when I get back in town and we'll go climbing. You should drag Meliska out, too.

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Feb 13, 2013 - 02:34pm PT

Sounds good Ryan. Take care

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2013 - 09:33pm PT

so it never gets terribly desperate or hard...

So you say. :)

Welcome to the thread, hardman!

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Feb 14, 2013 - 02:59pm PT

Dan, I have a quick work thing in the a.m. should be done by 9:30 when you headin up?

GILL

climber

Minden, NV

Feb 15, 2013 - 12:47pm PT

GILL

climber

Minden, NV

Feb 15, 2013 - 01:05pm PT

Cut me off

We climbed the diagonal crack to the ledge, where you drew in the two routes on the far right of your pic. The ledge spans the cliff. You could pitch a tent in the sand on it it's so big. You can walk right to a 10' pine and rap back to the ground. The rock on the first pitch was good. A little kitty littler to clean. The big obstacle was the bushes. They need some heavy gardening. We stretched a 70m rope out doing that pitch. I had to climb up a bit while belaying to get Coston to the ledge. The second pitch is a scramble to the summit. Cool views. The rock is rotten above the ledge. We didn't even bring any gear to the top. Can't remember what we called it. That of course that is presuming someone didn't climb it before us. I'm sure some one has. It seemed like the easiest line on the cliff. Glad people are talking about it and sharing info.

GILL

climber

Minden, NV

Feb 15, 2013 - 03:29pm PT

I talked to Coston. We climber that route last year in January. We called it Low Hanging Fruit. 5.9. Crux was coming out of the roof following the diagonal crack. We where calling the area Wild West Wall. I'm just healing after a shoulder injury and Coston has a new born but we are thinking about getting up there and cleaning the thing up. But like I said before if someone climbed it before us disregard the names. We'll still clean it.

Laine

Trad climber

Reno, NV

Feb 15, 2013 - 03:57pm PT

Thanks for sharing, Gill. I was up at that wall not long ago and know exactly the crack you are talk about. I had a feeling that was the line you guys did. I would love to repeat it if just to get over to that great-looking right-facing corner that I circled in the photo. That thing looks real nice.

I'd like to get up to the fords this Saturday and/or Monday but am in need of a partner. If you guys (or anyone else lurking this thread) wants to meet up this weekend we could do some "adventure" climbing up there. Let me know!

L

kennyt

climber

Woodfords,California

Feb 15, 2013 - 07:12pm PT

Dan, I got held up today till noon so couldn't make it. How was it up there?

Footloose

Trad climber

Lake Tahoe

Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2013 - 11:01am PT

Dan, you heading up today? Got my new shoes!

Has anyone bothered to check out One of These Days lately? I might want to jump on it to see if my latest strength training program has been successful. :)

Woodfords, hell yeah!