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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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I did the main (not outer)peak of the Black Tusk in full winter conditions in 1959; no doubt it had been done earlier. I don't know of any winter ascents of the outer peak. The Bishop's Mitre has apparently been climbed but I don't remember details. There was (is?) a cairn on top.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Anders doesn't roll with the times. Outer summit of the Tusk's been done 4 or 5 times at least in the last 10 years. Trip reports on the internet and everything.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I admit that tracking whether the outer and barely higher summit of the Tusk has been climbed recently is quite low on my priority list. In fact, it isn't even on it. Although as a novelty climb it would probably earn the participants some notoriety, should they want to talk. And I admit to once taking gear in that general direction, with at least the idea...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Purely by chance, I was reading a relevant edition of the B.C. Mountaineer (2012), which addresses many such fascinating questions.
The first white known to have visited Black Tusk Meadows was Billy Gray, in 1912. The area had been seen from BCMC camps and climbs in the Garibaldi area, and he surmised that it was accessible from the Cheakamus River side. So by himself, he took the steamer to Squamish (then briefly called Newport), then a motorized 'stage' to Brackendale. He then hiked the Pemberton Trail to Stony (now Rubble) Creek, and found a way to the meadows, near the modern trail. Two weeks later the club camp was held at the meadows, using his route, although they used packers and horses to get the gear to Stony Creek.
The 1912, 1913 and 1914 BCMC camps at Black Tusk Meadows provided a major impetus to the creation of Garibaldi Park. Many of the peaks around and east of the lake were first climbed at those camps, and the first recorded ascent of the Tusk was by Gray, in 1912. The outer peak was first climbed by the redoubtable Tom Fyles in 1917, and its first female ascent by Miss Emmie Milledge at the 1926 club camp, which was attended by about 100 people altogether.
Some photos of the area, and a few ellipsis, at http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/655919/A-Lazy-Hazy-Crazy-Day-TR
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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It's funny that we are always amazed at how young some of the top climbers of the day are but when I look at all the climbers on this thread including the veterans, pretty much everyone started when they were in diapers it seems. I came out of the starting gate late at 20. Who's the youngest start up here?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I started when I was 20 too.
My guess would be, although he hasn't posted in a coons age, micro Marc as the youngest to get started, at 9 I think.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Tom Fyles descending from the first ascent (solo) of the outer, higher peak of the Black Tusk. 1917. Look, no rope! Looks like he built a cairn on top.
Those guys were great!
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Great pic Tricouni!What was the rock shoe of choice for 1917?
Anders, I was thinking rock climbing or peak bagging.
Here's a couple of young whipper snappers who might want to reconsider what middle age is.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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For the record, I hitched up to Squamish on the way back to the Island after doing a stint clearing pipeline right of ways out of Fort St. John. I was fifteen, that would have been 73 and I was so inspired after watching Big Jim and Janine climb the Grand in the just released Vertical Desert that I HAD to check out the Chief. Arrived after dark, bivied by the long gone locomotive in Stan Clarke Park, had breakfast at the Chieftain then started exploring.
Tried to solo a route on the Apron that I later learned was the Slob just right of Slab Alley. Chickened out on a grassy layback. Hiked up to the base of the Grand and watched Kevin McLane lead the first pitch of Exasperator using pins for pro (and a point of aid). He lashed me into the end of the rope with a bowline on a coil and I managed to get 30 feet up on tope rope before there were no more edges for my mountaineering boots.
Made it back to the Island and climbed my first peak, Mt Albert Edward at 6500' the highest peak on the Forbidden Plateau and was totally hooked on whatever I was experiencing.
I got in trouble with the law and met Fred Put assisting on a session for Hoods in the Woods and he took me on a trip to Mt Arrowsmith. He rigged a makeshift harness and let me try a couple rappels and I third classed some stuff he later told me was easy fifth and thought I was crazy.
Later that summer I went on a Ramblers trip to Marble Meadows where I met Peter Croft, his friend Simon and a crusty old guy named Tom DeGroot who would have been at least thirty at the time. We crossed Strathcona Park climbing a bunch of peaks including the Golden Hinde (I declined the summit) and arrived at the Gold River Highway five days later.
It was almost three years before I met Dave Lane reading climbing books at ABC. He was fifteen, already out of school and pounding nails for a living, had just taken a mountaineering course and needed a partner. We hitched to Squamish, climbed Diedre with me in a swami, wool knickers and vibram boots.
Climbed the Grand with Dave about eight weeks later and the rest as they say, is history.
Hamish still has all of us beat for the toddler's start.
He told me the other day that by age eleven he'd save up a couple bucks and go buy a single carabiner with no idea how or when he'd use it.
He sure showed us!
Just noticed I hit the 4800th post on Big Mike's awesome thread.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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That's at Sunny Knob, Greg.
Great story Perry! I'd love to hear how you started Tricouni?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cool story perry, & cool perspective gf. Are u from the plateau Perry? Or comox? I got a group of friends that grew up on forbidden plateau rd, wild men- the whole lot of em'!
Really cool how u guys pursued climbing with so many unknown aspects- I would have loved to have learned to climb as a kid but it was so enigmatic that I would have had no idea where to begin. I kind of knew what it was but it didnt really exist growinv up. Luckily I moved to whistler for powder & hedonism when I was 18 & after a few years in the smog I decided to take the southern route back to Kamloops, on the way back to moms fridge I went thru Squamish for the first time & I knew upon seeing the place that I had to learn how to climb. It took a few more years but finally I got an opportunity to go. Phew!
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I climbed in Victoria during ages 11 and 12 before ever making it to the big time in Squampton. It seemed my brain was consistent with my size, both tiny. When I finally saved enough money for a rope, I promptly cut it in half so I would have two. When I eventually made it to the real cliffs on the mainland I had some explaining to do. Tough learning curve.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 11:00am PT
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Classic tales guys!! I love that you guys grew up on the island too! I'm a Campbell River transplant! ;)
Hamish I guess you learned how to pass a knot early in your career? ;)
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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I've always said the best way to avoid passing a knot is to just not eat one in the first place.
I've always said that.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 11:34am PT
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Damn Bruce, we need to get you the official court jesters hat! ;) only 189 more quips till rolfr's 5000 speech! ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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You're on a acid regimen? That does explain a few things ;)
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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There's a few more start up stories from other regulars that I'd love to hear still.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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If you got some for sale ill take a bakers dozen
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2013 - 12:40pm PT
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I did mine awhile back no? Maybe I'll go dig it up...
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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I was 6 years old and in prison on extortion, terrorism and conspiracy convictions, climbed the fence out of Aggasiz maximum security and never looked back
So up yours you lightweight sons of bitches !
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