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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks for the reminder Bruce. I got yer message Tami, check for a reply-thanks!
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Before the subject of obscure pinnacles drifts too far, how about Vulcans Thumb.
Anybody ever bag that thing?
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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Health Hazard, a bit of trivia.
I seem to remember at one point it only had only one bolt, ( may be wrong having premature Alzheimers) and a fall after the only bolt , before placing the next piece of gear was really a health hazard.
I meet some one who fell in that section , and missed decking by a three feet, he was still ghost white 24 hrs later!
Man, he looked like a walking zombie!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Most of the rock at Oregon Jack is gray limestone and superb. Only problem is lack of pockets. Garry Brace has a 13c ? roof project there. The only stuff I've climbed is the V1 finger crack on the parking lot boulder though. I heard one of the bolted routes goes at 10d but wasn't motivated. Maybe it was the two foot deep drift of rat droppings at the base that shrunk my sac, I dunno.
There is a bunch of rotten orange yellow rock at OJ too but it's not easy to get to. It's way over left of the falls.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Speaking of Clinton-area limestone, Mt Bowman has some solid crags with rock equal to the best of MC. Only drawback is the 2 hr approach hike from the ranch
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Rolfr
Social climber
North Vancouver BC
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That is one mean teaser photo .
Robin B told me there is a 30 minute approach to more crags further along Kelly Lake rd. I meant to head up there last sunmmer, maybe this year. I've been told there are also good crags off a spur on Jesmond road towards the Fraser.
Have Drill will Travel.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Rolf you might be interested in this crag on Meadow Lake Road. I think it's on reserve land though. Better bring Perry along if you head up there to bolt. He can deploy the peace pipe.
This next one is just across the road from the other one.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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There was always a bit of a mystery attached to the FA of Chimney Rock in Marble Canyon. The 2nd ascent party of Culbert/Owens was unable to find any indication of how the first party had rapped off.....and they certainly did not climb down. The next ascent was made by Dick, Ted Stevens and myself in Sept 1962. Fairly long approach, good rock [I think], and a fun climb. Wow, that was over 50 years ago.
A year or so later, Dick took a BCMC trip there. With typical Culbert humour, he put a couple of hard sun-dried cow patties in his pack, and then placed them on the summit, which was surprisingly large and quite flat--to the amazement/consternation of his partners! Definitely a WTF moment.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hamie, that photo of you leading is so cool!
And the cow patties?! Lol
Pretty amazing these old stories are, thanks for sharing guys. Solid gold.
So Bruce, what you are saying on the chossometer southern caribou/lillooet limestone chart is that the best stuff would likely be used for bathroom tiles if it was found anywhere in Europe besides the UK?
At least it looks really cool:-)
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MH2
climber
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Mutch appreciated, hamie.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Bruce: I never did the outer peak of Black Tusk, or the Table. Of my generation of Squamish (to keep the thread on track) clibmers, Dick Culbert did them both, solo. Arnold Shives did the outer peak of the Black Tusk when he was 17, with Frank de Bruyn. Dan Tate (University Wall) climbed the Table.
Here's a photo of Arnold on top of the Tusk, taken by Frank, just a month before he was killed on Garibaldi.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Yeah, way better than yellow limestone, but not nearly as good as the stuff in the Touch & Go Towers...
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
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Cool. I've heard the tusk is a little Chossy... ;)
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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it looks delightful!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
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Not much pro I take it? :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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So.
How often does the tusk see a winter ascent?? Hehehe
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
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Ill take granite cracks instead... Thanks ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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My friends Len and Bill did the Tusk in March 1978, but I suspect it had been done in the winter before then.
I haven't heard of anyone doing the outer peak of the Tusk - the one that's just a few m north of the one that most go to, and a tad higher - since the 1960s. Nor have I heard of anyone doing the blocky peak further north, sometimes called the Bishop's Mitre.
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