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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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BK sighting.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 12:40am PT
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12d? Heath hazard at penny lane?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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12D!?!?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Health Hazard 10a/14d R/X/yur gonna die
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Fred, of course, did both. He was the mainstay of the early climbs at Leavenworth, starting in the late 1940s, in the Peshastins and Castle Rock. But even Fred and Pete Schoening were succeptible to "summit fever." How else to explain why hard-to-reach Tumwater Tower and Chumstick Snag were among the earliest acents in the Leavenworth area? Fred liked obscure, backwater pinnacles as much as anyone.
I could not find a date associated with either pic. Any car experts out there?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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The car looks like very late forties into very early fifties. I'm not sure of the make and I am too buzzed to go look it up. The car looks new. It could be as early as '48.
Hey Anders did you ever talk to Claunch? If you need more help getting the old guy to talk to you, let me know. The best way might be to see him personally.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Brownie sighting.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Cleft Bib is V17. Brownie is doing it wrong.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Harry: I know nothing about cars. But in the photo, left to right: Don WIlde, Fred Beckey, Pete Schoening. Phot by Fred.
Pete Schoening climbed extensively with Fred and others in the Cashmere Crags from 1948 to 1951; Dick Wilde did a few trips, too. The trio in the photo did one only climb together that I can track down: April Fools Tower on April 1, 1951. In other versions of this photo, there's plenty of snow nearby, so early spring seems about right. My best guess is that the photo is spring, 1951.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 02:52pm PT
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Thanks Glenn and all. There is nothing better than opening my favorite thread and finding another gold nugget of history!!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Well the way you did that sit down start in the cave below with the overhead dbl heel hooks Before dynoing to what is normally the starting foothold at the lip seemed much more difficult than the reg way I've seen it done. Once you held the swing I knew it was at least 12+ but was only guessing, my bad- I'll edit the photo & upgrade it later. Just trying to stick with the consensus of handout grades at the bluffs, sorry for the sandbaggerry.
Hey Tricouni, awesome tower tales here, did u guys ever make your way up any of the ones in marble canyon? I always wondered the history on those & if they have seen many ascents, I'm sure they are choss but still quite striking formations.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Ryan: The big pinnacle in Marble Canyon, Chimney Rock, was climbed in 1957 by Hank Mather & Elfrida Pigou; this was probably the first route in Marble Canyon. It was done a few years later by Dick Culbert and (if memory serves) John Owen and once in a while since them. (It's got a summit, hence the attraction.) I never climbed it.
Dick and I did Schism Rock between Clinton and the Fraser in early 1964. I don't think it's had a repeat ascent, but Robin Barley has recently been developing various routes on the crags nearby. Rock is limestone, much as in Marble Canyon. Route is more or less up the centre edge between sun and shadow. Barley says the wall on the other side of the tower looks excellent. Rock here and in Marble Canyon is not choss, but it's not Squamish, either. Different rock, different styles.
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browniephoto
climber
bc
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relic, the photo is not a good example but i did in fact use the no hands dyno to where i am in the photo. thus making it a PMWU in the gumby grading system.. other wise known as a Pretty Mellow Warm-Up, Someone much wiser then myself once said "if there's nothing to hold onto put both hands on it", the trick to climbing overhanging slabs is to use that same technique with your feet (and sometimes even your nipples (that is, when things get really tricky)). This technically technical technique is quite a mid bender as it refutes the mathematical theory that nothing multiplied by something is still nothing; when, in fact, it is more nothing..
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Yeah, the orange stuff is ungood. Very crumbly in places.
Does anybody know if the same holds in the Rockies: grey - good; orange - bad?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Blue limestone = really good, gray-white= OK, yellow = sketch, red/brown = yer gonna die. Limestone quality system.
If it's black and in the Rockies it's probably shale and not limestone and hence probably a scree ledge. Sometimes the whole Rockies seem like a scree ledge though.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Did the northeast face of Park Mountain in the Rockies. Black, small shale-scree, and steep. That was choss!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
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Bruce, ya I should be.. I'm sled mechanic today. shred tomorrow for sure.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Is there still going to be a get together at fishboys place this week?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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I like the steep orange stuff with monkey business. What's the limestone like at August Jack up by Ashcroft? Any of u guys ever take a peek? I know there was a thread awhile back with some interior limestone teasing going on....
Thanks for the reply Glenn, may have to wander up to chimney rock there & get some wood ticks one of these summers.
Edit- Oregon Jack, thanks.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Heli-skiing could be phased out over 3 - 5 years, allowing a reasonable transition. If the proposed Spearhead Range huts are built, they may in any case have the incidental effect of making heli-skiing in and near them less marketable.
There's ample opportunity for largely unrestricted mountain biking (and for that matter snowmobiling) outside the Park, which is to say in far more than half of the area accessible from the Squamish - Pemberton highway. Mountain biking is quite limited now in the Park, and any expansion would create major management challenges. Construction, maintenance, boundaries, etc. A can of worms best left unopened.
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