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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 10:42am PT
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Yup.
I have always maintained that terrain dictates style.
It's up to those of us implementing our vision to do the best job of interpreting appropriateness.
In general, much of sport climbing terrain just isn't suited to trad climbing and vice versa. Though we have seen the exceptions and the fisticuffs!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 10:47am PT
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Love that artwork!
I still tie my own slings so they can be used to bail.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 10:50am PT
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Meteora was envisioned by Dieter Hasse as a trad area and he did much in terms of developing that concept.
He was so prolific it could be said that he owns the place!
I think there are now some excellent sport climbs there as well.
Roussanou Monastery, with Holy Ghost group of rocks:
(photo Dieter Hasse)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
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if the term "Trad" come from the word "traditional" then what is traditional?
here is a sequence of shots of my climbing partner Mike leading Baby, our first climb in the 'Gunks... in the late 1970's early 1980's era... pre-Friends...
I think Mike has 4 pieces in when he gets done with the first pitch.
I still think Trad is tied slings, stoppers and hexes... in this modern era, taking a set of stoppers on a rack is "traditional," I rarely see anyone who does that actually use them... sort of like an amulet, bringing the Trad gods protection to those who bear a 'biner full.
and yes, walking off the top after a climb, I remember the blueberrys were more abundant in the bushes just a bit below the edge of the cliff, where the deer couldn't browse them... this mode of walking off is also traditional, and I can't imagine doing anything else... it also makes a 'gunks "100 day" a bit more challenging...
[another tradition, a "100 day" = add the decimal grade of each pitch you climbed that day... so 10 pitches of 5.10 = 100... no letters allowed... this is more challenging if you have to walk off]
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:15pm PT
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Look to the East, to Dresden, and you will know tradition.
Good dang run-down of sh#t to know, Tad.
I'm in total agreement.
YOU carry on, lad.
Yer back in the game.
Good on Ed, too.
Ya got a great thread spooling out, Roy.
So good on you, too.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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I don't believe I'd ever really embrace sport and gym climbing in general.
It has nothing to do with trad, bolts, hang dogging, plastic or any that sh!t.
It's because doesn't go anywhere for me.
Just monkeying around on moves and yo-yoing around doesn't interests me at all.
I'd rather do something else in life if that's all there is.
I'd rather sit in a corn field in Kansas or watch a river float by than waste my life yo-yoing some stupid gymnastic moves .....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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I still prefer to walk off as well; there is a sense of completeness delivered through this behavior. Also, check it out: after one tops out, one is sort of lollygagging about in the Mind-Heather or the Poppy Fields in the afterglow from the buzz. This is best enjoyed trampling along down the backside of the cliff through the soft forest. Kind of like having a smoke after sex! Not that I smoke, but we get the picture, no?
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
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WBraun.... WORD....
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MH2
climber
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
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Trad is not dead, dying, or even catching the sniffles, as long as Tarbuster is here.
However, sorting through all the gear, I sure liked the elegance, light weight, and low price of stoppers and hexes slung with cord. Climbing with cams is a different game.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Apr 11, 2013 - 12:52pm PT
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Yes WORD, yes... no gym-climbing and yoyoing... writing posts to the ST internet forum... lol... WBraun, WBraun...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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Trad is and looks like this:
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 11, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
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Yes, walking off the back so you don't have to rappel!
Preparing to "walk off the back" Courtesy Philo/Newberry and MP.com
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Apr 11, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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Trad is and looks like this:
Horn's Mother? Sure is it trad, especially with the convenience bolts with chains for lowering so you don't have to walk off or do 2 rappels. Who would want to do that?!
oh, and here is the gear beta spray from Mountain Project:
The crux is 10-15 feet from the ground pulling out of a small roof/overhang a few moves above a 3-4" cam. 25-30' up there is a fixed belay. From there, the pro goes to #4 Camalots for 40 feet, until the crack begins to taper down, gradually narrowing to 2 inches at the top. Fixed anchors are at the top and a 70m rope will get you down with minimal effort. A single 50m can be used if you make 2 rappels onto Walt's Wall.
Sounds like quite the trad 'adventure'.... at least it IS sandbagged for huge mitts, like all off-hands are in the Voo.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 01:38pm PT
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Guess for me, Trad has more adventure. I love adventure.
I don't see sport as an adventure, but it sure is freaking hard! Good sport climbers are strong!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
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Yeah, but can you climb the same face twice, DMcGee?
Horn's Mother is just a classic! Interestingly enough, though I do t think you can tell in that photo, there is a Todd Skinner bolted sportclimb that crosses it at the pod.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 11, 2013 - 02:51pm PT
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after one tops out, one is sort of lollygagging about in the Mind-Heather or the Poppy Fields in the afterglow from the buzz.
Perspicacity under the big hat.
Not just echoes of the past.
Your climbs will be in somebody's past.
Style sets you apart if you are original.
I see no originality in sport climbing, only connecting dots.
No adventure, only strength training.
That's training for the real thing by clipping only.
If you miss out on the real thing because of this training, I won't miss you out it the wild, dang sure...
I wish everybody'd be able to experience the Bugaboos like those kids in that other thread.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
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Let's not forget sandbagging...
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trr2ke
Trad climber
Cookeville Tn
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Apr 11, 2013 - 06:03pm PT
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^^^ Is sandbagging trad or is inflation sport climbing?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 11, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
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^^^let's not forget slander either
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 11, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
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^^^^ Are witty one liners trad?? If so we got a lot of trad climbers in the mix here :-)
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