MARTY KARABIN'S MESSAGE TO ALL CLIMBERS

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Rockies Obscure

Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
Jun 19, 2015 - 02:02pm PT
Marty,
Where exactly does one go to view your AMAZING collection?

FISH is mentioned also on page 54 of the Daniel Duane novel "Lighting Out".

I love FISH magazine ads!
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2015 - 02:34pm PT
For now my museum outlet has been Supertopo. I have posted in many forum threads but my main four are:
"Marty Karabin's Message To All Climbers"
"Chouinard Gear Mystery Questions"
"Dolt Stories"
"Worlds Greatest Bolt Hanger Thread"

I feel that Supertopo is a great home for the Karabin Museum! I have a large Chouinard display at the AZ Hiking Shack in Phoenix, at the Phoenix Rock Gym is two climbing schwag displays totaling around 4000 schwag items, and a small Large cams and gear display at the Phoenix Rock gym. Another display is presently being built for the Phoenix Rock gym which will contain a few hundred belay devices, and some of my bolt hangers will be displayed in the new climbers lounge at the gym. At the upcoming Outdoor Retailers Show in Utah, I will be displaying 68 nut tools in the Omega Pacific Booth and showing 50 others on paper within the display. Edited by Stephane Pennequin. Thanks again Omega Pacific!!! A few items are at my house but the biggest amount of gear I have is in a few different storage locations. Terri and I were talking about possibly putting the Chouinard display at Patagonia corporate when I switch out the Hiking Shack display to something new. In the past I had everything at my house but I feared coming home someday and it would be all gone from a fire or something. Also at my house I obtained so much gear that I just could not sleep anymore. So now the museum is spread out so not all eggs are in one basket. The displays that I am building around town are considered storage for a bigger future project. Someday I hope a building becomes available to house the Karabin Climbing Museum and other museums as well. We are all getting older and the history needs to stay intact somehow. For now I am reorganizing the Karabin Museum and am posting the items for everybody to see.

Rockies Obscure

Trad climber
rockiesobscure.com....Canada
Jun 19, 2015 - 09:27pm PT
Amazing collection, thanks for sharing Marty!

A collection like yours should be in a place like this....

http://miracleofamericamuseum.org/about/

Every room covers some aspect of American History, of careers, hobbies, war, you name it!
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
I have a few topo maps which were made by Rand Black: Granite Mtn topo, and Salathe Free topo. And recently Art Christiansen added another map to the museum, a huge El Cap Route Map made by Rand Black 1990 edition.

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2015 - 08:55pm PT

Jim Waugh was in town from Thailand and brought back a few shirts for the museum!
Thanks Jim!

pennylaine

Social climber
Ventura, CA
Jul 15, 2015 - 01:54pm PT
You are right! The Chouinard collection would make a fantastic poster.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2015 - 04:50pm PT

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
I have been Patagonia schwagged! Thanks Terri!


karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
It is time again for the summer Outdoor Retailers Show in Salt Lake City Utah.
Yahoo!!!
For this show the Karabin Climbing Museum will be displaying Nut Tools in the Omega Pacific booth. Thanks Omega Pacific!!!!! 68 nut tools showing and 50 others on picture cards. The display was further edited by Stephane Pennequin of the Nuts Museum. For this show I am excited to see many friends and play with the new products for 2016.

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
Outdoor Retailers Show

 Show review, 100 photos


Salt Palace in Salt Lake City Utah, August 5-8. Summer Market.

For this show the paparazzi crew was Jaime, Marty, Spencer, and Neo so the many photos are by the four of us. I attended the show representing the AZ Hiking Shack as their retail buyer (Thanks Dale!). I also represent myself as the Karabin Climbing Museum. Overall in the four days I looked at 80% of the company booths (hundreds) playing with the new 2016 products, but my main interest is Climbing and Mountaineering products. Another reason I attend the show is to personally thank the company owners for sponsoring me as their professional athlete. I am amazed at how many climbing stars were at the show signing posters. I loved it! The energy at the show felt really positive! On top of that we attended the Reel Rock Tour #10 sneak preview party, PsicoBloc finals, and climbed for a few hours at Millcreek Momentum gym! Total dream vacation….faint!

Thanks to all the manufacturers for creating all of your awesome products!!!And thanks for creating all of the fun at the show. It was awesome!




This show is like very huge!!! Where to start? Drop off the Nut tool display at the Omega Pacific booth. Then go freestyle getting a feel for the show and to figure out where everybody is located in the building or out in the pavilions.


Besides Sam Krieg, the first rock star we came across was Hans Florine. Hans was silly as he was showing us a new knife set that he was creating(?)rep. He was pulling concealed knives out of everywhere. Luckily for me I brought to the show many select magazine page photos to get signed, and I have a Hans Florine.


I noticed the large Red Chili banner right away so didn’t waste any time seeing if Stefan Glowacz was at the show. When I walked into the booth Stefan was first to say hello and we went right to business with the signatures. I brought along an extra Stefan card to be signed (Stephan misspelled) for Robert since he was unable to attend the show. Stefan presented his show “Into the Light” which we missed due to being at the Reel Rock feature.


This is my 8th year as a evolv sponsored athlete. Thanks evolv for believing in me and giving me your support through the years! I just got a pair of the new evolv Cruzer Psyche and they are totally awesome! Great for course setting, approach, warm up routes, and stylish looking to wear for the nights on the town. Thanks also evolv for the team show schwag!


Liberty Mountain handed out little sampler products and had book signings presented by Falcon (Globe Pequot Press).


There was a lot of talk at the show about the Access Fund purchasing the access road to the Homestead limestone climbing area in Arizona. Super cool! The Homestead has grown over the years and now has around 300 routes. Please support the Homestead project. The limestone is amazing with tuffas, fossils and other cool outdoor rock features.


On the third day of the show at the Adidas booth was a line of tables and climbing stars signing posters. The first star was John Long and I know in the past John and I have had rough times together, but on this trip he was totally cool! I bumped into him many times throughout the show and at PsicoBloc. John signed a poster to Robert and the rock gym as well. What a totally awesome poster! First one day ascent of the Nose, Westbay, Bridwell, Long - (wearing the Bridwell shirt).



There is so much to see at the show and it only lasts for four days. I always wish for it to be extended to a six day show, but when I announce my 6 day dream I usually get hit by cabbage and tomatoes. 6 day show, 6 day show…


MK and Goose. I received this awesome Zebra Cadillac harness from Goose two years ago and I love it. Thanks Misty for the sponsorship! All of my other harnesses went into the museum. I climb every day and use my Misty Cadillac harness for everything.


I knew Tommy was going to be at the show. How could he not with the recent Dawn Wall accomplishment. I believe last year he missed the summer show because he was working to free the Dawn Wall. At this show the climbing industry kept Tommy and Kevin busy. Poster signings, Reel Rock speech etc.


Vibram had their mobile resoling factory at the show and was resoling shoes on a drop off and pick up later process. I got a closer look at the Vibram resoling set up. Also Vibram wanted to be a part of the museum and donated a few dozen different soles. Thanks Vibram!!!


I was working the Sanuk booth for a few days trying to land the nail polish schwag set and I was having no luck. But somehow Neo was successful and donated it (reluctantly) to the museum. Then after the show was completely over…tears….on our way to get food we saw this Sanuk truck with Sierra Blair-Coyle on the side, and Chris Sharma sitting on the back bumper.


I give the show glass award to Blue Water ropes for their creation of the Dawn Wall beer glass which includes a topo of the route, a official Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson signature in silver sharpie, and beer if you wanted to drink from it.


For the most interesting items I saw at the show I give honor to all of the newer ultralight camming units coming out on the market. Many to choose from and all unique designs.

That’s the show but still to come the Reel Rock #10 Sneak Preview party, PsicoBloc climbing finals, and Momentum gym Millcreek.
overwatch

climber
Aug 16, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
you should have taken more pictures.. Alex Puccio needs a spanking

thanks for posting even though I only got about a third of them. I'll check back for the rest later
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2015 - 08:02pm PT
Reel Rock sneak preview party

On day two of the OR show evening was a special showing for a limited 200(?) people, of segments of the Reel Rock tour. I have to give a big THANKS to Petzl for coming through with the show tickets for us! Food was provided and beers, and a collectors Reel Rock glass. The film producers and climbing talent gave commentary before and after the movies. It was awesome! I can't wait till the whole movie is completed to see what else is included in this years tour. Big applause!

Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Aug 16, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
Schist Marty! I'm overwhelmed by your OR show tour photos. Thanks for taking the time to post them up.

This is the first year since around 1990 that I have not worked there as a manufacturer's rep.

I retired from my last outdoor gear company in Jan 2015, & got a nice retirement-party------and then the boss called me about a week before this OR and told me I was more than welcome to attend with their company badge. I kept waiting for him to use the key motivational words: Pay or Money. He did not.

I really had a great time in Idaho's Mountains during the OR show!




nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Aug 16, 2015 - 11:48pm PT
Really impressive Marty, really impressive! With such a report, I was almost able to "visit" the show with you! And... thank you very much for the "made-to-measure" report and photographs about the very latest nuts & cams that I received in my mail box this morning! Nice work!
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
Fritz and Stephane - Thanks for the kind words. The show was really amazing and everything flowed very well for the paparazzi crew. I was amazed how the trip was quite inexpensive. Four of us drove and shared a hotel room which brought the cost down. The food was free mostly provided by generous manufacturers and many power food and drink free samples to be tasted at the show. We purchased the PsicoBloc VIP tickets, but could of got the general admission pass with 20% off coupon instead. After the show ended on Saturday we were guests at the Mill Creek Momentum climbing Gym.

Once again I give a full applause to the many people and Companies that took care of us at the OR show. I give another full applause to all of the rockstar climbers that attended the show and gave out their signatures and smiles to their fans! For the signature collector, this summer 2015 show was top notch! I wasn’t even trying and I still came home with 75 signatures. I still hold the OR show record at 138 different rockstar signatures in one-four day show, back around 2007. Robert with the Olson Climbing Collection that same year got, I believe, 122 signatures. I only know of one man that could beat my signature record, Steve Schneider, and thats only if he brings his ‘A’ game along!

Fritz after 25 years you are allowed to miss one summer OR show. My first OR was mid 1990s with Jim Waugh. I guess the difference is that as a rep you are stationed by your booth for most of the show. My OR show consists of mostly dancing through the isles acting like a teenage girl being amazed by, and checking out everything. Hugs, signatures, taste testing all of the products, petting all of the animals, and catching up with old friends. However I had you in mind and looked for you at the show. I bumped into Brian with SLC a few times. It was nice to see Dale Bard at the show. My paparazzi crew got him drunk on jello shots in the Gramicci booth a few years ago.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2015 - 10:27pm PT


PsicoBloc August 6-7, 2015

 50 photos


Deep-water soloing (DWS), also known as PsicoBloc, is where water at the base of a climb protects the climber from injury in case of a fall. This comp was amazing! The climbing wall is in the Utah Olympic Park and is built over the landing pool for the freestyle aerial skiers practicing their flips. Food vendors, climbing companies showing their goods, climbing stars signing posters, drinks and more.



The women climbers were almost completed but it started raining, and then pouring, and everybody was told to go inside the buildings in case of lightning strikes. We were contemplating leaving but we were not allowed out of the building by security. We were inside the Joe Quinney building and It was quite comfortable with a cafeteria and a few museums to look at. There was a lot of people inside, like totally packed but It gave me time to check out the museums.


So after the museum tour and getting something to eat, the lights went back on and the show started again. A boom-arm came out where organizers dried the climbing holds and ran the last few women through the finals. To give the finals women a rest between heats, Craig Demartino and another climber climbed the wall. After the women finished climbing two skiers jumped for the crowd while the course setters reset the wall for the Mens finals. I heard the woman’s finals route was rated 5.12 and the mens was 5.14-. During the reset the course setters left the last two holds of the woman’s routes to ensure the men could top out in the rain.


The rain and lightning got heavy again so after 40 minutes the comp was called final/cancelled. For the women Charlotte Durif took home first place and $5000. For the men the results went to the fastest time which was Jimmy Webb as the mens winner. The 16 mens finalists decided to split the $10,000 prize purse equally amongst themselves. Once again a fantastic show! Nature calls the rules but overall it looked like everybody had a great time!
overwatch

climber
Aug 17, 2015 - 10:45pm PT
Pretty classy and honorable they split the prize.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2015 - 09:33pm PT
Overwatch - I agree! Trophy technically goes to Jimmy Webb but overall it was cool that they split the cash prize between all of the finalists!

So I keep looking at the photo directly above this post. It is the PsicoBloc wall but in the lower right corner there is a fuzzy image. I have no clue what created that fuzzy image but my first thought was that it could be one of those mystery "Rods" or "Air Rod" flying illusion/alien images caught only by cameras. The government is listening in. The Aliens are listening in. Good thing I don't have much to say.

karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
So I looked further into it and these three photos were taken within 4 seconds time. First photo no fuzzy image Air Rod, then there it is, and then nothing again. Totally cool!!!


 My guess is that the strange object is a moth and the wings are opening and closing super fast, and we are seeing the time it took for the camera to actually fully capture the shot. I say this because the rain lines start and stop and don't fully continue to the ground. These photos were taken without a flash, iPhone 4S
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2015 - 08:34am PT

Momentum climbing gym, Millcreek Utah

 22 photos


Saturday at 3:00 the announcement is made and the OR show is officially over. It is quite a experience seeing all of these wonderful company booths suddenly being torn down in a hurry. The sliding doors at the receiving dock opens, the floor carpet is immediately rolled up and all that is heard is rolls of tape wrapping boxes and droves of people carrying booth display parts out to their vehicles. A few last handshakes and hugs and then we leave the building to get out of peoples way. We decided to stay for an extra day and were invited by Steven Jeffery to visit the Millcreek Momentum climbing gym. I was tired from four days of hard schwagging at the show, but I was totally psyched to go climb at this amazing gym.



Jaime mentioned that Kai stopped to watch me climb the 5.11- arete route before leaving the gym. He was probably taking notes from the old man on how smooth climbing can be. Steven returned to the gym after resetting the PsicoBloc wall with recreational routes. Steven gave us the overall tour of the gym which was awesome. I am amazed on how many holds they have in their hold arsenal compared to what I have down at the Phoenix Rock Gym.
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