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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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The rope drag sucked under the arch. Rope Caught under a cam there and was stuck, had to downclimb to unstick it.
OULD is classic. Top out and there are several more climbs on the next tier that are spectacular. Cant remember the names but there is a 10a corner crack that chim lead barefoot with me several years ago.
Its all good up there.
Shawn
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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OULD I believe is 10c. Crux is a balanced move that throws you to the right when you need to stay balanced left to place gear. So much up there and so little time. When you heading up?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Well keep me in mind. If Im off Im willing to hike up and give you a last tour. Im out as far as leading right now, seconding only now, but I can show you and your group some stuff.
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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What's up with the cliff directly above Bandit crag? sounds like someones been doin some stuff there. we were heading up today but my partner got hung up.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Kenny
Heard about some stuff going on up there but have no details. Dan and I put up a Trad route there in 2008 with walk off then went and put up April Fools wall in the next gully. I remember there was a lot of potential for some sport routes up from Bandit. Ill have to check it out and take some pics
Shawn
Ron
That would be a hell of a lot of wandering to get seven pitches. You guys had brass ones
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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I'm gonna take a walk up there today and take some pics.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Thanks Kenny
Look forward to your "trip report"
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Adventure climbing at its finest.....
If I would have started climbing in my Early 20's I probably would be dead by now. Luckily I started at 30 and understood consequences of injury. ie mortgage not getting paid. Damn I miss my 20's......
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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I can only imagine the smell from all the trundled boulders there when you did that "route"
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Kenny, if ya come across a few buckets with some gear in them on your walkabout (though I doubt you'd find em), those be mine.
Take good notes, there are a lot of "gems" up there
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Laine, is this one yers? I saw two bolts and anchors up a vertical dike
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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that is definately some quality granite up there, I would love to climb that thing but it looks like somebodys project. anyone got info?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Kenny - yea that's what we call Tumbledown House (2p 11a-ish). Named for the amount of death blocks we had to trundle in order to make the route climbable as well as an AZ band (friends of one of the FAists). The route follows that dike all the way to the top and is very uncharacteristic of the fords (smooth, in-cut crimps).
To the left of that route is Roof Bravado and 2 others cracks that all converge at an exciting roof. Yard over the roof to a 2 bolt anchor (hand drilled to keep it oldskool), run some laps or continue up and right on the 2nd pitch (5.8) to the vertical dike of Tumblehouse and follow it to the top. Give em a go and gimme some feedback, I'd love to hear what you think - unless you hate them ;)
We've been calling this place Crystal Wall because there is a bunch a quartz laying around (moreso than in other gullies nearby); however if an name has already been chosen I will be happy to edit the info I've posted. If you continue east past that gully, the next wall you'll find is Deadwood Wall. This is a single-pitch wall with several 5.8's and 5.9's that are a classic and any I've done in the fords. Chimneys, corners, hand cracks, and OWs all within feet of each other.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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just click the links and you'll find all the info. But here ya go anyway...
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Laine, is Tumbledown house a mixed route I only saw two bolts?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Kenny, yea you can place thin pro between bolts. There is one more bolt higher up (3 total). Clip it and make a friction move to the prominent jug that sticks out in the skyline of your last pic. Yard the jug, wipe your brow, and climb to the anchors.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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cool, thanks for the info.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Dan - sure I'd be happy to provide the info in whatever format you want, I just need to know how you'd like it presented. I've not done hand drawn stuff, but I understand from a printing cost perspective if you'd prefer black and white over color. Conversely, if you want photo topos, I can provide raw files so you and your designer can decide how best to display them. We should chat about it in person sometime soon. Maybe I can take a day off before this weather moves in and meet you guys up at the fords.
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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A few shots from yesterday, perfect weather, at least 3 parties! Still only scratched the surface...
Sun Wall middle:
O.U.L.D.
Sun Wall left (my favorite route at Woodfords so far):
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Nice.
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