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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
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Eat lightning and crap thunder!
I had a walker with a chalk bag attached for my beer holder.
Sheridan understood a lot about trad culture, pulling no punches:
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
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Trad bouldering prep
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Apr 10, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
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Trad rappel device...
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 09:37pm PT
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Me going for a Trad ascent of Lovers Leap.... It was snowing... and cold.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 10, 2013 - 09:43pm PT
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My friend made an interesting observation the other day.
You know how people look at 'trad' climbing as "oh, that's dangerous, I don't do that 'trad' stuff." Pretty soon that will be ROCK CLIMBING outdoors.
"Yeah, I am a climber. You too? Cool! Oh no I don't do that Outdoor stuff, do you? Wow isn't that dangerous? I tried it wasn't fun."
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
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My Trad Thanksgiving on Dinner Ledge
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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G Davis: don't kid yourself, we are there now!
Long live the crusty dusty burned-out fart filled cliff groping trad masters.
Warbler has me convinced that trad only refers to rockclimbing, not so much mountaineering, alpinism and nailing. I think he has a point. But given the guidelines we've all agreed upon as listed in the OP, our trad manifesto, stubbornness can overrule any categorical imperative.
So what, if we say it's trad, it's trad right?
Wanda Rutkiewicz, one of the most superlative trad women of all time:
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 10:18pm PT
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Tar,
Your pictures of yor really make your point.
There was an experience in an era that will not be relived.
Not to say the future isn't fantastic, but it is definitely not the same "as then" and never will be (heck, the equipment alone makes that change).
Keep 'em coming!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 10, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
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Trad can mean a discipline and an approach, IMO. So both you and warb are right! yay!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 10:29pm PT
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Your picture of yor really make your point.
To which picture are you referring please? Cheers!
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Kevin I believe you are correct: if we are going to try to pin down terms and delimit what they circumscribe, then your statement:
Trad was the term that climbers latched on to as an antonym to sport climbing
... has to be taken as fairly definitive. And to flesh that out a bit further, upthread somebody mentioned that this coinage of the term really came from Higgins in the article he published called, what was it? Tradsters and Radsters? I remember this article. We could go get it off his site easily. It was specifically about rockclimbing styles. The idea that sport climbers gave us our label might still be so, but Higgins reinforced it and it specifically referred to free climbing tactics on rock.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
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Typo, I meant to type "pictures".
I corrected my post.
To answer, All of Them.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Yes it's definitely a space in time isn't it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
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I think the reason people lump alpinism and big walls into it is that sport climbing was a big break from the ground up ethos to which all other forms of climbing strongly followed.
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
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Apr 10, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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Tar, I agree.
It was climbing....
Then a type of climbing came along that was so contrary to many principles of the current climbing of the times, it needed a new name, Sport Climbing.
Hard to believe that it eventually meant renaming what was just climbing to Trad.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
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Trad jetboil
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2013 - 10:49pm PT
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Trad curricula
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 10:52pm PT
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And people are still doing it!
Here's a craggy thing Goat Boy, Stich and I developed a couple years ago.
Three routes and one or two bolts, all from the bottom, two 5.7D & a 5.6... Sure it's Choss, although they didn't think so on the Choss thread!
People have climbed on it before, found a super old rusty pin on an adjacent line, but that was it.
New to us at least which is all I care about: we didn't even name the things, it's just about the feeling.
Trad lives!
Tarbuster, Bolt Kit on left hip, hat on head:
Drilling the first bolt and maybe only bolt, I don't remember if there's a second:
Tim Stich:
The middle line was naturally protective face, no bolts, one of my favorite things!
Top out:
I've done three other lines; one with another partner on viciously loose rock, and soloed a few things.
TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD TRAD
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Apr 10, 2013 - 11:30pm PT
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I'm a bit unclear, are you saying you enjoy trad climbing?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 11:48pm PT
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hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhaha.
Just a tad!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
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Trad curricula Hey Jay: Grand County Middle School trad curricula!
Tell us a story won't you?
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