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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 29, 2013 - 02:17pm PT
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So Ron how do you feel about making an X route safe by placing a bolt or two?
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 29, 2013 - 03:09pm PT
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Thanks Ron. I never want to F up a route but I also want them safe. As you know woodfords rock can be quite loose and difficult to protect in some places. Hope to try those routes this summer so I don't want change your routes
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 29, 2013 - 09:50pm PT
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Were headin up tomorrow a.m. if anyones interested
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 29, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
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Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?
It's a great route.
Nice work Ron
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Scott,are you working tomorrow?
Has anyone climbed it since I put the bolts in ?
yeah it's still a little run out.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 29, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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Hey kenny,
I want to climb but I'm working
looks like a great day have fun
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 10:38pm PT
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Kenny, have fun. Wish I had more time, I'd like to join you. Hopefully later as the season gets going. I just bumped the Suicide area high up on my Woodfords list, can't wait to check it out.
When you make it north to Carson or whatever, give a call, I'll break away and show you Sunny Delight. You'd like it.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:09am PT
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Ron and Burnrock and others: The route at Suicide Falls Miller and i did was up the center of the face to the right of the falls and we called it Senior Center Slab since there was a small senior center at Woodfords in those days that we began our approach from. We simply walked up there and picked what we thought of as the most direct and aesthetic route on the formation. What i remember is a moderate first pitch. An increasingly difficult and steeper 2nd pitch which was in discontinuos seems with very little protection and 5.10 mantle a long ways out from anything reliable.There was a final short and steep pitch to the top of the formation.Unfortunately i lost all of my climbing pictures, notes, etc. to high ground water in the crawlspace of my first home in Alaska in 1986 otherwise i would be posting pics from the past of the greater Tahoe area on this forum. P.S. The rock was pretty chossy in comparison to the Leap or the Loaf being granular if not downright crumbly
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 30, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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this thread wins
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 10:24am PT
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and the grand prize is.....
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
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Great comments. I love the old photos. They retain some amount of mystery that hi-res pics can take away from a route.
While the knowledge is being spread, anyone know anything about this bohemeth? It's located in the canyon west of Bandit Crag (northside of the hwy). There was a bolt spotted on the lowest part of the wall as of Jan 2012 (bottom left side of the pic right of the pine tree). The wall is not as consistently steep as it appears, with several blocky, loose bands, but there are a few descent possibilities. Anyone know of any routes on this guy?
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:11pm PT
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Here's a few shots from downhill and mid-wall. I was excited about the possibilities from afar but thought it rather lackluster up close, though a few single pitchers looked ok.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Jan 30, 2013 - 04:51pm PT
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Colin Hupp and Mike Stroschien did a route somewhere near called "over booked" (5.9) that had 1 bolt below a small roof traverse and corners below- crack finish-- back in 89
Well the bolt is at the end of a shallow little crack and I remember speculating if the party continued up into runout slab terrority (no other bolts) or if they traversed right into a good looking, right-facing book 1 pitch up (see the shaded corner in the second picture). That book is the most obvious line on the wall but you can't take a direct approach to it. I wouldn't be surprised if this is the route you described, Ron.
Maybe something like this?
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
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Dan, I climbed at the Fortress with Mark B today I have to agree with Milton Mugambe on the quality of the Whisker biscuit. I did take a bit of a beating on Walking Jack though.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
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Ron you have to refresh my memory-it was only 34.5 years ago. So soon i forget things. Anyway ,is what you call Suicide Falls in the Flying Block area the biggest formation in the lower part of the canyon and right of the creek?If so, and Flying Block takes a direct line up the best looking part of the tallest section then i believe it is very similar to Senior Center Slab.We climbed it hammerless and found protection to be very sparse sept. 1978.Could have used some pins or bolts and probably still does.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 30, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
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Ron i only remember the route because we got a downright thrill (read scared us silly) out of the business pitch. Your description and picture dont do much to jar the memory loose other than to mention hard mantles which we encountered.I remember dead seems, that didn't take protection worth a shat, more than grooves. Of course it was 34.5 years ago and we never went back to that formation.Somewhere up canyon is a 4-6 pitch arete with cracks from finger to chimney but mainly offwidth to chimney in the 5.9 range that my younger brother Pat and i did in the early 70's.I'll be damned if i can even sight what formation it was on these days.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
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Ron,I think Scott was bullshitting.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 30, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
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Ron, I thought Scott was just messin around but he did say he had done sumphin up there.
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:09am PT
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No bullsh#t
I did it.
We cleaned the sh#t out of it too.
It's hard to know whats what
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Scott Thelen
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Jan 31, 2013 - 01:28am PT
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I've been looking at that photo and I can't rember.
I did two routes one 5.10 and another 5.11 all cleaned and bolted. Starting from the top of pitch one of Ron's route.
Like I said I'm not sure.
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