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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 17, 2012 - 08:50am PT
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Holy crap. Sad news to report about Exasperator... The huge block before the first anchor fell out. Yikes. Scary. Holy crappppp.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 17, 2012 - 11:38am PT
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Did it fall, or was it pushed?
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Sep 17, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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it was pushed, with minimal effort. although in my opinion intent out-weighs effort.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 17, 2012 - 12:59pm PT
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I always avoided pulling out on that block. The original (hanging) belay at the end of the first pitch of Exasperator was two bolts to the left of the block. There was a shrub hanging down from the block, but nothing you could belay off. So you were hanging in this awkward spot, 1 m below a decent belay perch. Didn't make sense. So in 1976/77 I removed the old bolts, and put in a new bolt belay above the block, where it is now. (Later, bigger bolts and rappel rings were placed.) I also removed as much of the shrub and its roots as I could, and had a go at removing the block. It was pretty clearly just sitting there, wedged in and perhaps held by some dirt and root fragments. But not ready to go, at least not without major engineering. I figured that one winter or another it would eventually come out.
Someone will now need to go up and dig/brush out the site, as there's probably lots of loose stuff in the cavity.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2012 - 02:28pm PT
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Goodbye Old Block. Rest In Peace! Oh, and THANKS FOR NOT KILLING US!!!! ;)
On the plus side, this shot is now a piece of history. ;)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 17, 2012 - 02:51pm PT
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I think Brownie broke the block, the basterd!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2012 - 03:01pm PT
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Naw it was probably Bmac in the dark ;)
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 17, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
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That other block's going to come out eventually too (might not be for a couple hundred years, but whatever) and then it'll be a flaring chimney/v-groove squirm to the anchor :D
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2012 - 04:44pm PT
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Who took this pic yesterday?
I'm guessing Brownie since it's such a nice shot. Does that invalidate your onsight? ;)
Nate trying to send the The Split Beaver 10b in the dying light.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Sep 17, 2012 - 11:23pm PT
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Someone will now need to go up and dig/brush out the site, as there's probably lots of loose stuff in the cavity.
Nah, its pretty good. I got out everything with my hands and the old root as a digging tool. It's just a bit dusty.
Two seasons ago I also took the questionable honors of pushing off the six foot long flake that you used to stand on at the top of the second pitch. It had been held on by that wee bonsai of a yellow cedar. Shortly after the tree died (I think by legitimate natural causes) the flake began to show how tenuous it's perch really was. It was a one handed tip-off.
K
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 19, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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The last photo could be Hozomeen, but that's a bit far south for your flight. The plane would have had to go south, almost southeast, from the Coquihalla to get such a view of the east side of Hozomeen, with the main summit to right and southwest peak to left.
Maybe it's Judge Howay, or perhaps Robie Reid? Both twin summits north of the Fraser, maybe more on your route?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 19, 2012 - 12:47am PT
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Looks like the south side of the Judge from somewhere over the Fraser. Kobus would know.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:01am PT
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So, was it a port or starboard window?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:14am PT
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Hey Luke, We have all been waiting for the latest news from S.T.U.C.K. So like what's goin on? I want my membership card and lunchbox mailed out to me too.
For the time being let's watch Luke launch a wooden octopuss off a cliff.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:23am PT
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That would be starboard old chum
Then you were looking at the Judge
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 19, 2012 - 01:38am PT
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Relic, I got farking drilled grinding my way up the crack, bumping a #5, and gave up at two thirds (optimistic...) height and taking two wicked knee dragging slides.
Shorts were a bad idea.
Thankfully the Force was with Luke and he laybacked up to my high point and ran to the top like no one's business. Sort of.
The 11a pitch beforehand was miles easier, and this thing was substantially more difficult for me than the Angels Crest 10a or Borderlines 10a, or the things I've done at the Cirque. Felt like the last two meters of Split Beaver for 35 meters.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2012 - 02:47am PT
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Nice pics Jim! Glad you are back from Manitoba ;)
Thanks for the report Nick! It also makes for an excellent segway for this pic of Nate on the beav!
Nathan bumps his friend on The Split Beaver 10b
On Sunday we hit up the Little Smoke Bluffs and Kieran decided to try his luck on The Hangover after both Kyle and Rick decided not to lead it.
Kieran battles the opening move on The Hangover 10d
It didn't go down without a fight.. He fell quite a few times...
"Please let me clip this biner before I fall and hit the ground!"
Practicing his offwidth avoidance techniques ;)
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 19, 2012 - 09:57am PT
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I'd suit up for battle fer sure for a pitch like that mate ie. long sleeves and pants. Yosemite Crack ain't no stroll on the beach. Not that I would know. That's just all pre-spray.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 19, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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Hangover is great, except for that loose chockstone in the wide part.
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