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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Chillin' in the City of Trees
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Those things are pretty cool. That Leeper was always thinking, huh?
Nuts!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Healyj,
I received them the other day. Thank you.
Ken
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bmacd
Trad climber
British Columbia
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Slesse North Rib ...
I wonder if Jello would humour us Southwestern BC locals with more photos or a trip report. That first image in this thread is spectacular ! I doubt the route gets very much traffic.
thanks
Bruce
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2009 - 01:53am PT
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Bruce, by 1972 we had pretty much switched to nuts as the best way to climb, with maybe a thin fixed piton where necessary. I remember Rob and I expected to find greater difficulty on the climb, but we both enjoyed the classic alpine cruise. I used to study Fred Becky's trip reports in the AAJ. Often there was an equal or sometimes even brighter gem exposed in the wake of his passing. The north rib, or Rob's Rib as I called it, was one of those gems.
-Jello
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 18, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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From the 81 Book of Fred. For such a forbidding place, what fun finding a reasonable route! I wonder how many ascents Slesse gets yearly even with the mechanized access?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 18, 2010 - 05:43pm PT
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As mentioned in Fred's description, the description in the 1973 AAJ said they used 5 pitons on the FA of the North Rib of Slesse. It's been 27 years and many miles of FAs in between, so a few details like this may fade.
The photo above only shows the last few pitches of the climb. Much better is the other photo in Fred's guide which shows the main part of the route, which parallels the NE Buttress.
Here's a nice aerial shot in winter by John Scurlock:
NE Buttress is the main sun/shadow line; NE Rib just to the right with lower part in sun.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 17, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
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More nuggets...Once the Hexentric came on the market, the next innovation for larger placements was the Clog Cog series. Thanks to a generous trade with Marty Karabin, I have a full set to show. Thanks for the three wires and the #8, Marty! The #8 still had the Made in England sticker! Mint!
These wired Cogs would have been a real pain to place efficiently!
The Slimline series was really a great design due to the shallow attitude of placement in the two camming modes. Gunks anchorite, Rich Romano, still carries his set of Wog-wogs!
The interesting difference between the Hexentric and the Cog designs is that the Cog was designed to fit into a parallel placement so the rails don't taper like the planes of a Hex.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Jul 17, 2010 - 02:05pm PT
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Woggies in action earlier this year---part of a Romano belay anchor. Are we talkin' old-school or what?
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Jul 17, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
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Clint, thanx for posting up that fabulous photo.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 17, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
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Nice pics of the Clogs Steve. I still have a few on my rack. I especially like the Slimline series. I only have one and I have placed it many times. I still have most of a set of the regular Cogs. The big ones get a bit heavy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 17, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Original School!
Seems like curved Stoppers or Rocks would be a nugget stackers dream in combo with the Cogs!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 22, 2010 - 10:21pm PT
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Stacked nugget bump!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 22, 2010 - 10:23pm PT
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It creeps me out when them things noodle like that, jest ain't natchrul!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 22, 2010 - 10:45pm PT
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One man's noodle is another man's snick!
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Jul 23, 2010 - 03:59am PT
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The Clog Cogs hit the market in 1976 and had to be a serious British competitor for the Chouinard Hexentrics. In fact, unfortunately for Clog, they never became popular. The original sets consisted of the sizes 1 to 10. The sizes 1 to 5 were available either on wire or on rope; the sizes 6 to 10 were only available on rope. These five bigger sizes were too much heavy so, in a second generation (the ones on Steve's photos), these sizes were made shorter, with two holes on the top, and just one hole on the bottom. The early longer sizes are rare…
These ones were on eBay a few days ago. I have no idea who won them.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 24, 2010 - 02:44am PT
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Thanks for the background, Stephane. Very cool and unique design. I didn't see any mention of it on your site so it qualifies as unusual.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 24, 2010 - 03:06am PT
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Cool history on the clogs. Those first gen. ones are what I still have a rack of. I really like the smaller sizes.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Jul 24, 2010 - 03:39am PT
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Oh Steve, you like the background information…? What do you think of this one…
Wayno, take care of these treasures!
Enjoy!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 24, 2010 - 03:53am PT
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Now that's what I call a reply. It hurt my eyes to read it but I did anyway. Interesting stuff. If the cam came later or not at all, I wonder where chock technology would or will go.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France.
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Jul 24, 2010 - 04:21am PT
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Wayno, if you click on the images you can see them a bit larger.
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