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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Sep 13, 2012 - 02:40pm PT
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The thing I like about a lie-back is the sense of commitment. Funny, the thing I hate about a lie-back is the sense of commitment. I pull into one of those and I feel an immediate sense of desperation. Given my usual lack of power I need to get the weight off my arms and onto my feet so I can calmly assess the next 5 ft runout.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 13, 2012 - 03:00pm PT
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I'm just really curious about what the real old timers think. Somehow I bet if it happened a couple of decades ago there'd be a bit more expressed interest!
Tthe heli-rap-sport-bolted route on the west side of Dione is, strictly speaking, outside Tantalus Provincial Park. The boundary follows the watershed. Sill, there's a management plan for the park, from earlier this year, which says that that part of the park is in a "nature recreation zone", and that "The objective of this zone is to protect scenic values, cultural values and to provide for backcountry recreation opportunities in a largely undisturbed natural environment." The only nearly comparable park is the Bugaboos, where motorized drilling is prohibited, as are (mostly) helicopters.
(The management plan is in a link at http://www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore/parkpgs/tantalus/);
Overall, the area is wilderness, and protecting that quality seems a high priority. A sport route with "convenience" bolts seems out of place. A minimum of bolts and other disturbances seems desirable.
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Gatineau Climber
Trad climber
Ottawa, Ontario
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Sep 13, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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Hey all,
I've been a long time lurker on this thread. I love the history and stories... best thread on Supertopo!
I have a bit of time off work and will be in Squamish on Sunday and most likely for most of the following week. Anyone interested in climbing? I have a rack and am down for anything. Free, aid, wide, thin, slab, etc... just psyched to get back on Squamish granite again!
Danny
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 13, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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So whats the beef?
Let a few bolts go in, and as sure as night follows day, there will soon be a gondola. That's the beef.
I think Anders should lead a party up there today and get those bolts out before the entire Tantalus Range slides down that slippery, bolt-protected slope toward gondolas, condominiums, and shopping malls.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 13, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
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So we agree, then?
Anyway, things like helicopter use, gondolas, "cliffwalks", and via ferratas may pose a greater threat to the values of the area. We're going to have to honestly come to grips with it some time - whether it's the Chief, Garibaldi Park, Tantalus Park, Manning Park, or any of many others, they're all parks within a few hours of a major population centre, and under increasing development pressure. (Whistler/Blackcomb has steadily eroded Garibaldi Park for 20+ years.) What's the right balance, given that those parks also represent values that attract visitors from around the world? How do we ensure that it's not just local and commercial interests making decisions, when the issues are larger?
Perhaps there'll be some discussion of this in the provincial election in the spring.
I'm ambivalent about the Haberl hut, even though it replaced an existing (sort of) structure, and even more so about the proposed Spearhead huts, which may be the thin edge of a wedge. But was a friend of Jim's, and know all the Haberls well.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 13, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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The Warshington Pass area (and Mazama) is a lovely part of the world. The combination of a seasonal highway through the area, plus it being a national park and mostly wilderness, seems to keep excesses to a minimum. There's lots to do there.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 14, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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The absolute, hands-down, no-argument, gifted-beyond-belief climbing I ever personally witnessed was at Washington Pass on North Early Winter Spire. We'd climbed most of the West Face, and I had just joined Mari at her belay after we'd struggled up the 5.11 tips pitch when we heard a voice below us: "Do you mind if we climb through?"
We looked down and saw a climber starting the pitch we had just bumbled our way up, sort of hanging out as if he were on easy ground.
The hanging belay we were occupying was crowded with just the two of us, but we weren’t in a hurry, and he was obviously climbing ten times faster than us, so we said “Sure, go ahead.” We figured he'd crowd in beside us and bring up his partner, but no, he sauntered part way up the tips crack, but well below us he stepped out onto the face, bypassed our hanging stance, and then moved back into the crack well above us.
Using the crack on that pitch is 10d/11a. So what would the difficulty be if you abandoned it and headed out into no-man's land? I have no idea. Watching this guy (Viren Perumal, we found out much later), it looked like about 5.2. No holds. No pro. No problem. He simply floated by, chatting with us as if we were all sitting on the outdoor deck at our favorite pub. The rope dangling into the distance beneath him.
It had to be at least 12.hard. Maybe harder. And he didn't even notice. And it's not like he was familiar with the place. This was his first climb in the Northwest. His partner (and fiancee) followed the same path, not quite as easily as he did, but not really showing any signs of struggle either.
I've roped up with some pretty good climbers over the years. Climbers who climbed 5.14 before there was 5.15. Climbers who had set speed records on El Cap. But this was like having god draw back the curtain and say "Take a look at what it's really about."
And yeah, it's a beautiful place. A magical place. A place where you'll probably see a few other parties, but no crowds.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:28am PT
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Which left me wondering ghost, just what is it that you latte suckin' urban librals done to those poor folk in Darrington?
Now that is an interesting question. One I've been waiting years for someone to ask. But rather than answer straight out, I'll tell a story...
Somewhere around 2000 I pulled up stakes in Vancouver and moved to Golden. (The real Golden, in BC, not that fake one in Colorado.) I soon met some nice folks, and after I'd been there a while, one of them invited me to a party. Not so different from an afternoon BBQ party anywhere, and I was starting to feel kind of comfortable, when one of the locals approached me and started a conversation.
"Hey, good to meet you. You're from Vancouver, right?"
"That's right. I just moved here a few weeks ago."
"So why do all them as#@&%es in Vancouver want to take our guns away?"
Which is my way of saying it ain't no different down here than it is up where you are.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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Was that fine gentleman named Ward by any chance?
As far as I could ever tell, Ward has a functioning brain. So no, it wasn't Ward.
Although he once did offer the senior detective on the Vancouver Police Department drug squad a toke on a joint he'd just sparked. But that's an entirely different story, and doesn't reflect on his intelligence, cuz he had no idea...
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Sep 14, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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Trust me. I would die and you guys would have to stop.
And if I joined in, then the corpse beside yours would be mine. But if I weren't in some other country, with a house to paint this w/e, I'd plead for an invitation.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 14, 2012 - 02:45am PT
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Trust me. I would die and you guys would have to stop.
I hate it when that happens.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 14, 2012 - 09:38am PT
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 14, 2012 - 09:49am PT
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What's that pic of Luke? NFR on D in the L? It don't look like no D in the L.
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brownie
Trad climber
squamish
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Sep 14, 2012 - 11:06am PT
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those look like bivy ledges compared to whats on D in the L..
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Chief- "Easy Street" Ya, certainly compared to that 12a you freed ;) Thanks for the story ;) You'll be glad to know certain traditions were properly honored.
Hahahaha.. Nice. Darn mountain bikers are taking over! ;)
Nice report on the pass Bruce. Thanks for that, excellent story.
What did you guys end up getting on last night Luke?
I did some more editing last night, here's a few more from Mercy Street.
Kyle looks for his next piece of gear
Gaining the first good stance
Having fun yet?
Trying to slot a big nut
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Sep 14, 2012 - 12:24pm PT
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Should be quite obvious from the picture
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 14, 2012 - 12:42pm PT
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Cruel Shoes?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:02pm PT
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Nooooo, not Cruel Shoes. Hamish might recognize it, hint hint.
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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Genius Loci third pitch. Proud send lads! how was it?
K
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Sep 14, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
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Haha, proud yes, send, not so much. Our main goal was the .10d dyke, and then possibly the Grinning Weasel.
Luke aided the .12 pitch, and then I attempted to free it. I only was able to make about half the moves though, and then had to aid through the crack cause Luke's gear was taking up all the holds.
I might have a better go at it with fresh shoes and cool weather, but that thing is HARD. It's an amazing pitch though.
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