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Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Sep 11, 2012 - 07:06pm PT

Not only that, a 'route' apparently created by heli-hiking poseurs. Probably rap-bolted, too. Grumble grumble. Sheesh, is nothing sacred?

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Sep 11, 2012 - 07:17pm PT

I must say I'm a bit surprised at the complete lack of commentary on the existence of a rap bolted multi pitch high in the Tantalus range.

If it was down here, it might be the subject of debate, but in Canada, unless there's a gondola involved, no one will care. It's not like anybody violated the constitution by putting it up, and even if it doubles traffic in the area that'll just mean there are four parties on the mountain in a year instead of two.

If you want to get some spirited "bolted routes in the mountains" debate going, just troll the words "Infinite Bliss" across the Supertopo landscape.

David knows that the lighthouse belgium white is not skanky!

That's a true fact.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Sep 11, 2012 - 07:24pm PT

Yes, spies reported that you and hf had done the preliminary work for the new mountain gondola bike centre and tourist shake-down facility. Is it true that you and the proponents held 27 public meetings at the hut while there, to which all inhabitants of the Tantalus Range were invited to discuss whether the gondola cars would be green, blue, or both? And that the Ministry of Facilitating Park Development couldn't see anything amiss?

chill

climber

between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing

Sep 11, 2012 - 07:36pm PT

Has anyone else found the start of Penny Lane to be damned slippery? I was expecting something easy and had to really work for it. A few thousand more ascents and it will be 10.a.

Mighty Hiker

climber

Vancouver, B.C.

Sep 11, 2012 - 09:06pm PT

Yeah, I found it so hard that I put a pin in, and thought it was 5.10a. So sue me already.

Those who want fixed anchors at the top of PL wilfully overlook the nature of the route - diagonal, crux at bottom. Fixed anchors would quickly lead to worse polishing, and a bunch of people with broken ankles from rope stretch and swinging - the simple physics are against toproping there. And it's hard to imagine how someone could do the route without being able to construct a simple belay at the top, if necessary continuing to the 'true' top and tying onto a tree.

Hoser

climber

vancouver

Sep 11, 2012 - 10:08pm PT

Now they just shuffle over to the anchors a top power windows whilst dragging their rope through the gravel and spray everyone below with rocks.

Regarding the grade, I would be surprised if Bourdon didnt upgrade it in the new guide...

Hoser

climber

vancouver

Sep 11, 2012 - 10:18pm PT

Old School BK has been replaced with a new Euro version, he does have flash backs of his old ways but I believe they are more like nightmares for him now.

I am hoping he is just experimenting but when he asked me if his shoes matched his harness I started to get worried...

I guess the old school retirement party/intervention did nothing for him

MH2

climber

Sep 11, 2012 - 11:01pm PT

It took us 12 full hours return from the haberl hut and that was with a light day pack!

Was it the photographer that slowed you down?

hamish f

Social climber

squamish

Sep 12, 2012 - 12:19am PT

I'm not sure if I'm a real old timer or just posing as one. The color of my hair suggests I'm in that league so I'm happy to go with it. That route sounds great and all the rest of it, but my thinking, without ever having actually been there, would tend to be in the direction of Special Kay.
Bolting three feet from a crack? I thought Robbins dealt with that decades ago.

Not that my opinion should count for much as I'm too busy riding my bike to personally check it out.

Oplopanax

Mountain climber

The Deep Woods

Sep 12, 2012 - 12:40am PT

there is a pillar of pocketed rock out on the right* side that i think connie and jamie climbed in a seperate outing -really nice IIRC

gf

*left

I suppose using the Culbert guidebook conventions that it is "true right" (climber's left) though.

How many times over the years have climbers gone the wrong way because the guidebook (any guidebook) says left when it means right or vice vrersa

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Sep 12, 2012 - 12:46am PT

The route sounds great, and, at least from my perspective, plugging a cam is not somehow holier than clipping a bolt. But I'm 100% with Greg on the other thing: going into the mountains without a light rack is crazy.

Oh sure, if you're never more than shouting distance from ten other parties, then no worries. But anybody who never got off route in the mountains, or hit by a storm in the mountains, or overtaken by darkness in the mountains hasn't really done much climbing in the mountains.

You could argue forever about what constitutes the proper "light rack" but one thing I'm pretty keen on is sneaking a hammer and a couple of blades into my partner's pack.

hamie

Social climber

Thekoots

Sep 12, 2012 - 01:12am PT

Bolted rap routes. Now that's another biggie.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 02:49am PT

Penny Lane has no need for any bolts. It has perfectly good small gear where Anders put his pin, and a bomber gear anchor which provides a decent top rope with a 70m rope and a very tight attentive belay. The sketchiest part is getting to the bolts on crime of the century to rappel without killing your belayer with gravel ;)

Thanks for the compliment Wayno. I simply facilitated the campfire at a time when it had briefly lost its flame and became disjointed. It was very nice to meet you and the Mrs. + Boris this weekend. I was stoked that you and Bruce Macdonald joined us for a little “Squamish style” cragging.

The Reacharound is an awesome little route. Quite varied as Chief mentioned and some endurance sections.

Nina leads The Reacharound 5.9

Getting her stem on

The 1st annual Psyche Ledge Party was awesome! Thanks for a well organized event Perry! I had so many awesome conversations and I didn’t even get a chance to talk to everyone!

Here are a couple pics..
From Right to Left. Front: Aislinn, Sandra, Nina, Relic, MH, Mrs Chief, Jim Brennan, ??? Rear: Brownie, Kyle, ????, Bruce Macdonald, Johnny 2 Vests, Wayno and Masha

Wayno enjoying his new favorite cheap Canadian swill, while chatting with Chief.
Relic tells the gruesome tale of his most recent highball pad missing ankle twist. Patrick sitting in the background, and John Howe talking to Scrubber and Luke and Nate.

Jim Brennan and Bruce Macdonald talk to Wayno and Masha

Before the party, we got on a treat.. Here is a shot of The Bastille and Rock on from our objective.

Edit: I wonder if you could sort out a better rap route and still clear the 'schrund? http://sendage.com/topos/dehydrated-on-dalwhinnie

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 12:08pm PT

No time to tell the tale this morning, but here's a little teaser....

Kieran sets out on the Opal Wall

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 12:08pm PT

you coming with Tami? ;)

Wayno

Big Wall climber

Seattle, WA

Sep 12, 2012 - 01:01pm PT

I really missed seeing you on the Ledge, Tami. Maybe next time.

It was fun watching Nina lead the Reacharound. With her deliberate karate-chop jams, she was a lesson in determination. Good job, Nina! Kyle waltzed the thing. What a great couple.

So, what is the deal with Bruce McD and his status on the Taco? Seems kinda weird, but hey, weird seems to be the rule around here sometimes.

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 12, 2012 - 01:15pm PT

Bruce seems to have designated the taco as not being worthy of his time anymore after the everest non sense. Cant say i blame him. This place is such a time vortex. ;)

Big Mike

Trad climber

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 13, 2012 - 03:54am PT

That's unfortunate Tami, I'll sort out my schedule and get back to you.. But i'm hoping it's going to include a lot of multi-pitch...

Back to the Opal Wall
Kieran puts in some pro on the first pitch of The Opal Wall.

First of all let me say, that it was a privilege for us to even touch this magnificent wall. The stone was so fresh that little crystals would break off when you even brushed it with your hand. You look up and realize that all these beautiful dihedrals you see are really giant plates just looming above your head.

Our Objective was Mercy Street, a 2 pitch 10b Kirt Sellers, Bill Noble FA. The second pitch is the main attraction of course. KM says “Power up the remorseless layback corner above. A real blockbuster for its grade.” When we got there the Dude Lips start was all but reclaimed and the initial Opal corner looked much more inviting.

Kieran styled the first pitch which makes an excellent 5.8ish outing on the Opal Wall, a good warm-up for Bastille/Rock On. There was some new cordalette on the anchor but an extra sling on the bolt couldn’t hurt.

Kieran rests at an amazing stance before leaving the corner

Just about to finish up after crossing over.

Kieran graciously teamed up with me for this effort and still managed to tron (top rope onsight) the second pitch with my Rebel on his back.

Me on the other hand, was another story. I was getting my layback on and after about my fourth piece of finger gear and twenty+ feet later I was getting pretty darn tired. I got pumped and ended up taking a couple times before I got through to the rest.

I was able to get decent locks in the hand size and good gear but when I got up to the small fist I started to realize that I wasn’t going to have much to fit, and started bumping my last two cams I started to get a little scared again. Pretty soon the omega had to be left behind and I bumped the blue up high. I managed to cram one that was way too big in the only place it would fit, and stepped over to the beautiful rest.

Then I followed the FA, but skipped their pins and got in a nice alien at the top. I would have liked to have done it in better style, but this thing is hard! Much harder than the Pillar IMO.

Kyle on the other hand, pulled off his usual magic…. After waiting almost two hours for me to get my team into position, he started out…

This first pitch was really fun!

Rick was happy to get a tow and provide a belay after Bastille/Rock On the day before….

Kyle remorselessly laybacking P2 10b?

Still going!

More later….. too much climbing, not enough editing.. naw… ;)