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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2012 - 10:23pm PT
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First of all, I must say, I would like to echo Ryand's sentiments...
I LOVE THE EASTSIDE LIFE!!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
ok ok.. I said I had more pics and I do! Here are the rest of those cool sunrise shots....
And we got to play in the Buttermilks a bit on Tuesday which I quite enjoyed.
More on that, a bit later....
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 28, 2012 - 01:43am PT
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Yeah Big Mike, it's pretty nice over there. Im squandering in a post eastside hangover still. Free to do as u please more or less & the dinosaur eggs are pretty fun to play on too. Does this mean we'll see u in the boulders this winter when the snows shlt & the friction is all time??? Put that reach to use!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2012 - 02:03am PT
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Relic sending...
Sent
Super cool patina problem
I ran up this one it was super fun!
Pebbles...
Hero Roof
Relic pulls the arete
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nita
Social climber
chica de chico, I don't claim to be a daisy.
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Oct 28, 2012 - 02:03am PT
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Big Mike, Thanks for the fun trip report and all the cool/ beautiful pictures....
Come back to California anytime....
Did you feel the quake?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2012 - 02:18am PT
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Nita- no not here in whistler. I heard a lot of people in Squamish did though.
Ryand- I'm down! Maybe fly into Vegas?? ;) mmm Red Rocks!!!
Khanom- yeah chains.... Great tool, there is a time and place for it for sure.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2012 - 02:24am PT
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sooo tempting!! ;)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 28, 2012 - 03:03am PT
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BK can't wait for that Rostrum TR! You gonna keep this thread alive for us while your there??
I almost wish I would have went down later this year since it rained here a total of zero days while I was gone. Almost.
Only time I've ever headed south & it was sunny when I left & when I came back, so weird.
Big Mike, perhaps I should have been more clear- THE SQUAMISH BOULDERS!!!
Puffy jackets & tea & hopefully Relic too. Who knows maybe even Luke if he's had his share of suffering yet.
That said I was thinking of a little 3-4 day mission this winter to clip a few in RR, we'll talk.
Awesome photos btw! This thread has been entertaining to say the least.
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slodog
Trad climber
ontario canada
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Oct 28, 2012 - 03:48pm PT
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Relic and Big Mike,glad you had a great trip-
Luke-i was going as fast as i could up there,to make it sound like i was making no effort to keep up is just not true.i dont want what happened to ruin an otherwise great climb.i was still haulling the previous linked pitchs when you announced you were leaving in ten minutes from 2 pitchs above-after asking me to tag you the lead line witch was my anchor.had you have waited at p 30 rather than racing off we would have finished together with the gear before the storm hit.as it was-with 2 traversing pitchs to clean-a haul to finish and a stuck tag line-i felt it better[safer]to wait for light-and you agreed to meet me in the morning.i got hit hard that night and in retrospect i should have done whatever i could to get off that night even if you were already gone.this being said-i have no hard feelings-mistakes were made.I made mistakes-i wish you and Aislin all the best-when you write your tr,let it reflect on the good things about our experience-again-I wish you well Doug
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Oct 28, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
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Doug - We wanna hear more! Would be good to hear about it from your side. Luke hasn't given us anything. What happened?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 12:46am PT
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Ryand- Squamish Boulders eh? hmm.. ;) Definetly have one score to settle..
ya ya Red rocks.. so down. maybe a classic trad multi too?
Doug- Wow. Please do tell us more. It would be nice to hear it from the horse's mouth as it were.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 29, 2012 - 01:16am PT
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Somewhere upthread, in response to Luke's self-questioning over whether he'd done the right thing, I wrote:
Disagreeing with your partner over what to do in a life/death situation is probably the ultimate worst climbing scenario.
When it happens, there really is no right or wrong. It's just miserable for everyone, and quite often not everybody survives.
You guys are both still alive.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 03:41am PT
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I'm still in Bishop.I'm still in Bishop.I'm still in Bishop.I'm still in Bishop......
What do you know? Hero roof.. I am still there!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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My Bishop mantra wasn't working so hot today... Climbing ladders in the pissing rain was the name of the game today.. Gotta clean those windows! Ugh...
I wish I was in Bishop....
ahhhhhh... That's better....
The Buttermilks..
Tarryn(sp?) sends the crack next to Test of the Ironman
Action pano's don't really work out too hot but this one is pretty funny..
Mark working Test Of The Ironman v4?
Absolutely incredible scenery around here.....
We had a pretty darn fun day at the 'milks but the dastardly wind returned at full force and dampened our spirits a bit.. At one point someone was literally blown off a problem, so Relic and I decided to call it quits for the day..
I took one last pano of the Buttermilks.
That was the last photo I took until we reached Topaz.. Despite the amazing sunset, I was tasked with the driving since Relic had decided to leave his driver's license in his vehicle in Seattle!!
Relic was set on all you can eat spaghetti at Topaz Lodge Casino, so we went in a checked it out.
It was pretty good.. Still wish I knew about In-N-Out in Carson!!!
We rolled into Reno and hit the first starbucks we could find to book a cheap room. Circus Circus was 32 bucks plus fees and had free wi-fi.. Good enough for this guy!!
I got up in the morning and was greeted by this:
Tahoe was looking pretty sweet!!
If only I had unlimited funds and time....
I woke up sleepy head Relic and rushed downstairs to the car to pack up the tent.
Silver texted me while I was packing up and asked if we were still on for breakfast. I was stoked to meet him and of course replied "Yes!" He told us to meet him at Pegs Glorified Ham N Eggs..
We finally got on the road, late as per usual and rushed up Sierra St. We found a parking spot on the street with some difficulty and went inside. Silver recognized me right away and waved us over.
We introduced ourselves and immediately began bullshitting about all things climbing. Within no time our food had arrived.
Wow.
I have to say one thing about the U.S.A... You guys do food right. My breakfast was amazing... Caramelized banannas on a ham steak which was too much for even me to eat!! Damn.
Silver was really a really nice guy and we had an excellent discussion. He was even nice enough to buy us breakfast! Very cool. On the way out he checked the chain control advisory which were of course in place, and allowed me to take this photo.
THANKS SILVER!!
Getting back to Sacramento was a bit of an epic but nothing major, some of which I allready dropped... I'm saving the rest for the proper TR!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 30, 2012 - 12:39am PT
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Action pano's don't really work out too hot but this one is pretty funny..
"Funny" doesn't really do it justice. I think you should start shooting more of those.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 12:45am PT
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Jeebus next time I make it to the east side we should fire one up!!
Big mikes wacky action pano's coming up!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 12:53am PT
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He told us to meet him at Pegs Glorified Ham N Eggs..
I have eaten there and after being a B'fast cook for fideen years, I would say silver knows his stuff. Pegs is really good.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 30, 2012 - 01:04am PT
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Big mikes wacky action pano's coming up!!
Back in the days of EBs and Whillans Harnesses, we had to take exotic drugs to see sh#t like that. Getting it via some pictures taken with a telephone just ain't the same, but it's still pretty cool.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 02:14am PT
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Jebus- Ya we were in and out like the wind... Next time I might just fly into Reno and check out what the else the eastside has to offer!!
Back in the days of EBs and Whillans Harnesses, we had to take exotic drugs to see sh#t like that. Getting it via some pictures taken with a telephone just ain't the same, but it's still pretty cool.
Rofl!!!!! You don't know Dave! Maybe my phone is on drugs!!
More trippy phone pics for Dave!!
Wayno- Pegs was dope! I would almost go back just for that!!!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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On a personal note, I would like to take a minute to acknowledge everyone who helped make this happen, Wayno your hospitality on both ends of the trip was amazing. It was seriously more than we had ever dreamed of. Ghost, your inspiration and encouragement here and via email were very much appreciated. To all those who sent me route suggestions and encouragement/ beta via email or in thread, you made my trip that much more smooth and the simple gesture meant a lot to me.
To Relic my partner in crime and rope mate, it never would have happened without you dude!!! Thanks for everything!!! To Aislinn who put up with my endless posting of more images and late night posts. To Luke and Doug for transporting gear for me and securing our humble abode. To Dan for letting me use his computer, being a ethical inspiration and all the shits and giggles. Also thanks for not waiting for me to get my sh!t together on Salathe wall! You probably saved my life!!!!
Thanks to everyone who posted here and came along for the ride. It was amazing to have you!!!!!
The greatest thing about this thread is re-reading it and your comments now that I have a better understanding of the context...
Oh ya.... I got more pics and I left lots of juicy details out of this thread...... So stay tuned for a full blown Trip Report!!!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
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Mike, that inner voice told me it would be worth it, and it was right. That is what we do. There is something in this connection we all share as "climbers" that I don't care to analyze too much, but just try to nourish and enjoy. Brother.
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