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Byran
climber
Merced, CA
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Mar 14, 2011 - 04:19pm PT
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Had a couple good days in the Valley last weekend. It had been a few weeks since I had gotten out and climbed (which I'm sure some people will scoff at, but that's pretty long time with no climbing for me!). I've been doing pullups at home but it's my legs that are most sore. My feet also seem to have rediscovered their pain sensors in my time off, since my climbing shoes were a lot less comfortable than I remember.
We did Commissioner Buttress on Saturday. It was totally dry and quite fun. First 2 pitches are great, then it gets kind of easy and loses its exposure.
We still had lots of day light so we decided to take another lap via After Five which didn't go quite as well. The first pitch finishes with a bunch of hummock climbing that gets progressively steeper. Finally you get a bit of pro down and right of the last vertical section. The hummocks were sopping wet and barely clinging to the rock. The whole slab of mud and grass was threatening to peel off the wall and send me along with 200lbs of dirt flying. I eventually downclimbed and moved a bit left onto some actual rock and was able to traverse back to the belay tree from there. This is actually the way you're supposed to do it, and is pretty well described in the old Roper guide. I was using the Reid guide which has little more than a line with 2 trees on it for a topo. After reaching the tree I took a look up at the second pitch which is one of the mungiest gullies I've ever seen and decided to bail. We got down and Megan led After Seven to finish off the day.
Sunday was very cloudy so we decided to crag. I wanted to climb The Buttocks up at Camp 4 wall since I've hiked past it so many times. Unfortunately it was totally wet and the start was covered in slime so that was a no-go. The sky was pissing a light rain off-and-on so we set up a toprope on Doggie Do. That climb was an epic struggle for me last September, but this time I went up it with some grunting but not too much flailing. Maybe it was the toprope or maybe it was the much cooler temps (last time I was sooo sweaty) but I was able to stick in it better. The weather had cleared up a bit by this point so I led Doggie Deviations and we also toproped the right start variation which was covered with ants.
Losing motivation to climb, we decided to drive out of the park, but I wanted to stop at Short Circuit, which I've never been to before.
I had read online somewhere that there was a bolted chimney on the boulder so we decided to check that out first. Man what a cool feature. It reminds me a bit of the Firewater Chimney in Josh, but wider...definitely a lot wider. I led 15 feet or so, until I got a look at the distance between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Then I turned tail and downclimbed. Anyone know what that thing goes at? Looks like it's sure to have you doing the tipy-toe splits.
So then we decided to hang a toprope on Short Circuit. The climbs up the backside looked kind of sketchy so I aided the route instead. Took 4 laps each, which is the closest thing I've done to bouldering in a while. Great training. I feel like I improved my confidence on thin hands and finger stacks just from that one session. The best I managed was one hang, but maybe I'll get it clean next time.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2011 - 07:55pm PT
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Khanom, just good ole South Dakota. The bouldering is in a place away from most of the climbing around here. Lots of problems and a few good short cracks which seem to make good highballs. I have not seen another climber that did not come with me in the decade or so of climbing there. Mike
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Johnny K.
climber
Southern,California
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Mar 16, 2011 - 10:29am PT
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Some overrated choss pile :O
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 17, 2011 - 09:31pm PT
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Classic plastic. also vintage Tilden mud.
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climber bob
Social climber
maine
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Mar 18, 2011 - 02:51pm PT
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all in a days work..
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MH2
climber
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Mar 21, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
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It might have been today or it might have been yesterday. The rock was cool and wet. I remember hanging on one arm while using a handkerchief to dry a hold with the other. I remember being unsure of footholds. But when I paused on a ledge and looked back, about to re-live the last section already, the water below rushing and circling told me to forget. I didn't need to bring back the past. It was there behind me shaping and impelling my future whether I thought about it or not. Like a wave on the ocean.
that, and I already know the route down to micrometer scale
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 24, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
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well...yesterday...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
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Ice climbing today and Friday and skiing in the morning and bouldering in 75 degree temps Saturday. Gotta love spring.
Tom those look good.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Trout Creek!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nice climbing at Trout Creek, I'd like to get back there.
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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Spent Spring break in Indian Creek. Photos later.
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Paco
Trad climber
Montana
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lots more if you want them.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2011 - 01:20am PT
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Did some really nice bouldering By Old Baldy by Mt. Rushmore.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2011 - 12:43pm PT
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A couple more from last night
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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Nice video chinchen
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2011 - 10:08pm PT
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Deadwood Matress FactoryThought the kids would probably want to learn to jumar as long as we were out there.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Apr 16, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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Some slabs at Tollhouse.
 Posted from Tollhouse
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 16, 2011 - 10:40pm PT
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Pool Wall, Ouray. CO:
The Front Nine
Ginsu Arete
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