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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:37pm PT
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April fools wall was done April 1 2008. Only bolts on it should be the anchor. Just saying as well
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:39pm PT
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Shawn, I'm sure his memory is not what it used to be.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
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If you had to place a bolt on a route that already had anchors on it WTF. It's fairly obvious the route has been done before. We did it on gear only. Thus no bolt. I'm not going to waste my time pulling it cause I would rather climb.
Just saying again
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
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I could never understand how smashed hangers were somehow better than rap installed bolts.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
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Ron, Didn't he imp-lie that they did the f.a. with only one bolt when they were done? It's funny anyhow just another BITD prodding.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
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Instead of complaining about this sh#t how about some ex. route maint. like that first crux route is cool but the walk off with a foot of snow is lame. seems like these forty foot routes without bolted anchors might actually get done with fixed anchors. most of those routes are sportcracks.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 02:46pm PT
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More like it's 30' and they're never goin back so why waste the time and money.
Were not talking about classics here. I pulled the conveniance slings from the tree on nev/utah and replaced them with painted two bolt anchor is that bad? I'm 99% sure if Dan were around and I asked him he would not have an issue with it.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
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always loved the way twenty multi colored slings looked wrapped around some tree. O.k. I put the anchors near nev/utah for a new ten foot arete route. anyone doesn't like them they can rap of the hammered slings that were up there.
EDIT: what about the bolted anchors on hillside strangler and stranglehold? did you use those? you can easilly walk off led zepparete and you don't even need the belay bolt at yer waist
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
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Jebus, I have your sling and biner. you can have it back or maybe I'll put it back so ron and rick can rap off it!
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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The rest were done with naturals, because they were so abundant. Exactly,So in other words it would have cost a fortune.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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After the approach to the Fortress one could truly appreciate some conveniance.
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:39pm PT
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We climbed CLEAN BITD.. not always;)
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
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Just effin around Ron no offense
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 23, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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Thanks for the backup chim. We also did the 5.8r route to the right of bandit buttress (FA) the same day F.O.L.L.O.F. Fear of love love of fear
Aka my divorce route
Shawn
I didn't know one pic would cause so much talk about climbing. Maybe ill post more photos!!
Enjoying one of my rare days off with my future bride
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velvet!
Trad climber
La Cochitaville
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Jan 23, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
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Is there anywhere decent to bivy if one wanted to spend a week around the area this time of year?? Camp ground open? Mega cold at nights?
Also, how steep/long is the approach more or less? I've gotta a leg that requires some delicacy at the moment.
The boyfriend is coming in from England in two weeks and we've got about a week to kill in between my work stints in the Bay Area. Thought this place might be just the ticket if the weather is nice. Thoughts??
:)
lib
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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Some thought it would be convenient to have a bolted easy crack at "bandit crag" too.. Yeah, I'm not even sure you need your hands for that one.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:38am PT
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Kenny
I don't like that bolted crack but its already there. I've used it to teach people to lead trad on. If they get freaked about trad placement they can clip up. It's shitty that it was bolted but I'm just gonna get the best out bad situation. Routes fun either way.
Ran into the guy who bolted it and he said he wanted a crag in woodfords that you could "leave your gear and bring more beer".
Again don't agree but........beer is good
Shawn
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kennyt
climber
Woodfords,California
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Jan 27, 2013 - 08:04pm PT
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Anyone available wed. or thurs. next week for the Fortress?
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Jan 27, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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Hey guys and gals,
Didn't mean to start any controversey over April Fools Wall. Haven't checked this thread in quite awhile. I wasn't claiming any first ascent since there was already a bolt anchor on top when we did it. I just thought the picture and caption about pulling up the bolt kit was of a later ascent. Anyway i'm not claiming any first ascents down there except for Suicide Falls center 5.10x in 1978 with Steve Miller and possibly Sole fusion with Billy Price in 1980.Did other highly visible and desirable features there in the early to mid 1970's but i knew there had already been quite a bit of activity and such obvious features surely would have already been climbed.
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BurnRockBurn
climber
South of Black Rock City (CC,NV)
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Jan 29, 2013 - 11:53am PT
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Thanks for clearing that up Rick. Suicide falls has been calling me for a long time except for the x rating. I kinda like not killing myself for a climb
Shawn
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