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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 20, 2012 - 01:36am PT
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Great ideas mr chief, sir.
Thanks g. Rad you shared your old bivi cave with your daughter!
Cool movie ya posted a page back, thanks tami.
I think psyke ledge definitely deserves to be recognized for being culturally and historically significant. How does a group go about achieving a such status?
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Aug 19, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
Knowing how much busted glass is embedded in the ground in and around the campground at the Chief, I'd never walk barefoot there.
Thanks, Mum. Snicker.
**
+1.. Snicker.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 20, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Kids these days...
Some of us remember (barely, of course) the original Squamish highway, pre-1968, when it followed a route that included what was later called "psyche ledge". The last party and bonfire there was in September 2004, in memory of Daryl. It poured rain. Just like old times.
Isn't the "Canadians chop down Cerro Torre, mistaking it for old growth Doug Fir" thread also fairly long?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2012 - 02:49am PT
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Thanks for the pic Hamie! Great to see you out enjoying yourself! Definetly not OT btw. Once a Squamish climber, always a Squamish climber.
Anders- Come on, you can use the ST search function can't you? Nice joke but the Cerro Torre is about 1500 short of us.
Sandra and I visted the Bluffs this afternoon...
Tree Hugger
Sandra follows one of my favorites, Old Age 5.9
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 20, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
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So yesterday... the plan was for Nathan and Luke to do Cruel Shoes - Grand Wall - Roman Chimneys. I dropped the two boys off at the parking lot and was gonna go pull on some pebble sized boulders. Luke and Nathan tried to convince me to be come with them, but I was like nawwwww. Then they started posing all tough guy like.
They convinced me eventually after showing that I could be all burly like them if I came. So off we went beginning on Apron Strings.
Luke piped up to lead the first pitch of Cruel Shoes.
This relegated me to BK (belay kasual)duties. Hmm, this picture looks familiar somehow...
That first pitch has a really thin tricky part. Luke styled it on lead and Nathan figured it out too. I totally gave up and took a wussy pendulum past the crux.
Nathan lead the traverse pitch which has a bit of a surprise ending on it. I was initially belaying him but had to pass off the belay duties to Luke so I could do some uhhh, well nevermind. Nathan took a whip just before the belay, ratttts! I used some crazy foot dyno thru the crux, climbing higher than either Luke or Nathan went. Nathan was impressed with my top rope tough guy skills. Luke just decided to climb it smartly with no trickery needed all casual like.
Luke led the overlappy corners pitch with dignity, taking us to the start of the 5.9 casual pitch, casual as in hardly any friggin pro. Nathan started up across to the very committing start of it, looked up and came back to the belay. "No way!" he said, "that's friggin scary!"
There was a bolt a ways up there, which must be relatively new. I only ever remember some old piton bashed into the top of a ledge. To get to it, you got to do some sketchy moves, but Nathan channeled his inner tough guy and manned up to do it. There was 2 bolts and 2 small alien placements on the pitch.
Luke led the last Cruel Shoes pitch while I rested my tongue from singing to much on the climb.
Luke had some unfinished business to take care of with the Pillar so he set out up it.
I started feeling super lame and tired on the Pillar but got up it fine. Man o' man, gone are the olde days when I had this thing on lock down easy mode, so sad, it made me wanna go home and curl up on my couch with some cold bevies. I pleaded with the boys to abort mission.
Lukes like say whaa? Hmmmm...
So then the three amigos decided due to sucky suck whiney Relic, we would call it a day. 3 man Cruel Shoes, Split Pillar it is.
So we went back to Luke's place for some refreshments and a little gibber jabber on the couch.
Ok, this is where thing got a little weird. Somehow we came up with the idea to go on a special attire ascent of the Apron. I think we may have been a little too refreshed.
But not to worry, the boys made it up Rambles and Banana Peel lickity split and returned back safely...
THE END!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 20, 2012 - 01:55pm PT
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Woohoo, get some!
Sums up the day nicely, however I do think that one pic you have of me that you said was following pitch one, I think is pitch three of Cruel Shoes.
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MH2
climber
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Aug 20, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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however I do think that one pic you have of me that you said was following pitch one, I think is pitch three of Cruel Shoes.
One sing(sic) among many that it was a good day.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 20, 2012 - 09:56pm PT
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Thanks Relic! mh2 been out lately??
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 12:57am PT
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Hey Jim can you pm me the original of that? I would love to zoom in on it a bit so i can check out those anchors to the right of the pillar.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:21am PT
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Glad you like them Tami! They got me quite a few looks, particularly when I went into town with shorts over top of them, and wearing the hat. Note the headlamp on top.
My goal is a tribute to Keith Reid. My unofficial nick is NFR, after him.
On our Apron descent, Luke had his approach shoes and I was barefoot, so he ran ahead of me. I caught up to some other people on the way down and asked them if they had seen a funny looking guy come that way.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 01:26am PT
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ROFLMAO!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!! they'll talk about that one!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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There was like 5 parties all backed up on Freeway today. There didn't sppear to be any spandex up there or any sing-songs for that matter.
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:48am PT
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Looks my buddy Danny from Australia on Cerb right there^^^^!
NFR, TKC and Relic, youse are loony.
I finally retrieved all my gear from the top of Cowboys and Indians tonight! Came down with 3 new ropes! Who was that in Valley Cliff shining a green light on as we rapped just an hour ago??? Looked like your house Luke.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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Perry, isn't there a music festival in Squamish this Saturday (25th), then the big Vancouver-Whistler bicycle tour on the 8th? Would either make a difference?
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 01:58am PT
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I believe it's called the Grand Fondo Anders.....
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:05am PT
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There's unclimbed cliffs like these all the way up the coast,we just need some local pirates to plunder the gold.
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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Fish Boy
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:19am PT
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Any hints to as where, please?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 21, 2012 - 02:26am PT
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This is a job for Mighty Hiker.
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Paul Brennan
Trad climber
Ireland
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Aug 21, 2012 - 12:16pm PT
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I finally retrieved all my gear from the top of Cowboys and Indians tonight! Came down with 3 new ropes!
When you say "new", do you mean half a purple one, a horrible stiff white one with a knot in the middle, and an orange one thats starting to look a little beat along with a crappy old crab...... :-) I can arrange for beer and stories to be exchanged for the orange one in September....
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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Maybe Sept 8 would be best as to avoid the festival? Grand Fondo won't make much difference I don't think as they just ride through town... Traffic might be busy but should mellow out later in the day...
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