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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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May 23, 2017 - 05:45pm PT
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Got it, I missed the switch to non-dangling poles. I watch the videos with the sound off, so I missed that glaring detail when I watched the video.
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 3, 2017 - 02:31pm PT
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WBraun
climber
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Portaledge became obsolete today.
Honnold free soloed elcap in 4 hours earlier today.
Everyone must now do it that way or no way ...... :-)
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 8, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
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Not obsolete for this badass! Marek spent 30 nights in the D4 Portaledge soloing two new Grade VII's in Baffin this year.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Portaledge became obsolete today.
Honnold free soloed elcap in 4 hours earlier today.
Everyone must now do it that way or no way ...... :-) [Click to View YouTube Video]
:-)
Kidding aside, great design and development work.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jul 26, 2017 - 08:51am PT
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Resurrected from the dead:
SIX STRAPS!!
YAY!!
While the four-strap suspension seemed good "in theory", I was not a fan. It is prone to taco-ing, however if you follow John's instructional video to the letter, you will be ok.
Mostly I did not like it as a soloist, because with no person to counterweight the other end, I could not lean my back against a non-existent corner strap, nor against the pig, as a backrest. Thinking of El Cap, I like to sit with my back in the SW corner to face the morning sunlight. Impossible with four straps.
Also no good for me [being alone] with the four straps - when you go to load your pig in the morning, you want to stand on the end of the ledge to reach inside, right? Well, you can't do that, because with no person to counterweight it, it immediately tips!!
I found it harder to level, and to keep level. If you moved a bit, it would shift more than a six-strap ledge.
That being said, the other design innovations are brilliant! I really LOVE the round corners for flagging the ledge during hauling, because unlike a block corner, the round corner will slide round obstructions on the wall amazingly well. And since on a big nailup we haul two loads, with the ledge flagged on the second load, the ledge slides up past the first docked pig and catch lines much easer.
The way it folds in the bag is super-easy, and it is FABULOUS that you can pre-attach the fly for quick deploy. I used to use an old North Face-A5 fly with a floor, and that really IS Big Wall Theory, at least for above freezing walls. The bottom of the ledge fly would collect water, a giant cold lake heat sink. Yes, there are grommets, and no, they don't drain well.
Deucey - please provide links below where you want me to copy and paste this stuff for you. Like McTopo, etc, then message me and I'll update as you like.
Cheers, eh?
PtP Pete
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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bumping the good stuff
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