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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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^^^^^
That ... is the kind of sh#t that makes it all worthwhile :)
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MH2
climber
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Yay Nathan!
10c is an admirable sandbag grade for the 11b pitch of New Life.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2012 - 12:06pm PT
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Thanks for that Nate! It was good to see you on Sunday!
I was begining to think that I had put this thread on pause last week and forgot about it ;)
I've been busy climbing too of course... It was a gorgeous weekend and it was hot but Sandra and I still managed to get some routes in.
We did Snake on Saturday and she got it done, with a little trepidation at the dyke traverse at which point I reminded her that a: she was on toprope and b: Nate soloed this yesterday!. The traverse was actually quite uneventful after she figured out the moves and we raced up the last pitch to get out of the blaring sun.
Sunday we got a semi early start and sent the buttface with no real road blocks and it no was problem for Sandra until the last real crux where she wasn't fond of the rope running over a sharp edge.
Yesterday I got out with my buddy Ben again and he took mercy on me and decided that we could skip Borderline today, and go do Hanging Gardens at the papoose instead. Which was fine with me because I had a lot of climbing days last week. I do want to get up there though which is why i hopefully said yes the night before...
Hanging Gardens went well, there was some chalk on the route, and I managed to figure out both slab cruxes although after a fall on each.
After lunch we went to the bluffs for a bit and got rained off Tunnel Rock as i was cleaning the anchors. not too bad tho... Nothing like our last Skaha trip which I still haven't posted... Ben got stuck in the huge parking lot on the way back to Vancouver, caused by the basecoast hippy exit..
anyways.. more ypls pics soon I gotta go to work now!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Yesterday I got out with my buddy Ben again and he took mercy on me and decided that we could skip Borderline today, and go do Hanging Gardens at the papoose instead.
I'm so insulted...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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TheSoloClimber may be somewhere in this photo, from early afternoon on Saturday.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
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Don't be insulted Dave, it was meant as a compliment really.. We both decided that being it was day 4/5 for me that I probably would die halfway up the route, so we thought it better to send it when i'm fresh and could enjoy it more..
Nice picture Anders. Thanks.
Allright. I been promising more pics. Here they are. All wide photo credits go to Kieran Brownie at Brownie Photo.
WARNING WARNING POTENTIAL HORRIBLE BETA SPOILERS BELOW! ;)
Ryan gets a close look at the pro at the start of the Wide
Trying to get rid of that Big Bro
He ended up not finding a good enough placement for it and took it with him for fear of it disloging and hitting the next piece.
Deciding if he should use the evil pro
Yup.
How did those guys get in this thing??
Kneebar
Desperate attempt to avoid the wide
Whip!
When in doubt layback?
Getting the knee in again..
Wow... that feels like overload. I got more too.. later..
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The feature in question from afar, again on Saturday. No climbers on it. The prominent face crack is the right side of Yosemite Pinnacle, or Tantalus Crack as some call it. First climbed by Fred, Leif, etc in 1966 using wooden wedges, then freed by Al Givler in the late 1960s. The left side, done in 1965, is the left facing corner.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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I saw someone on Tantalus crack on Sunday Anders!
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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I wish I could say I was in that picture, however we hit Bellygood around 2 that afternoon. I'd love to get up there with two or three parties and just get some wicked pictures on the Sword and Pillar. You interested Mike? I know you are ;)
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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Heck ya Nate. i could get some pretty sick ones from the right... maybe on a free grand anchor somewhere?
Yosemite Pinnacle Left Side epic continued...
Eventually the fixed mank just gets too tempting.
And a little aid gets employed..
Slipping into the void..
Employing the chockstone rest..
Chimney time!
Topping out
After we joined the peanut gallery for some bouldering antics..
Relic on something hard.
Ryan's arm is so fast it's a blur! :)
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hey haven't been on here for a bit- cool photos Big Mike, except that flailer in the photos has some whack beta & a fat ass(not relic the other poser) :-) thanks for posting up & thanks for the fun day! Let me know when u want to go finish crackhead. Solo climber, cool little write up, sounds like a good weekend. I'll have to check out that kneebar next time on Perry's!
Bruce Kay I would have expected nothing less for a response from you re:YPLS well spoken haha. Let me know if u want to go up there to climb what you've cleaned, unless of course you are content with just doing all the work, in which case I would say "keep it up!"
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Big Mike I just did a fast scroll down this page and discovered that what we have here is a flip-it book of ypls butt shots... you should make an animated GIF out of these
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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The Send Train...
Ok Relic, your turn. It's time for the send train.
Ok ya sure!
Relic sends the crap out of the problem.
He goes to stand up on top of the boulder, and in victory exclaims, "send train!"
WHOOSH, foot slips out on wet moss.
Falls off the top of the boulder, scraping and flailing.
Catches him self on a couple of holds with his hands, while feet are dangling madly.
Don't worry I got this! Starts clawing back up the boulder. Uhh, no I don't. Falls off.
The End
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Relic I hope that story is about lounge act. Haha that would be exciting, sounds like u got lucky!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oh I think I know where u have been training Bruce, & I'm pretty sure u are likely proficient in long, wide, corner chimney cracks that have been tainted by the kiss of a Bosch :-) that said I'm sure a few months on Eurasian eyes would probably help your chances of sending, or more likely it would make u realize that thrashing up any of the dozen wide cracks in town is a silly idea with all the thousands of more graceful pitches around here.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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you're right Bruce, that thing is no joke! After the battle on that pitch i had a million reasons why it would be smart to head down to the gully & come back to finish the rest of the route another day.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Silver, there actually is a route there. It's called brain damage, first pitch goes @ 5.12 & I'm not sure if the second pitch has been done or not but it is bolted & looks amazing!
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The Call Of K2 Lou
climber
Squamish
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Aug 10, 2012 - 12:26am PT
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A little on the short side, but one of my faves anyway:
Still one of my favourite spots to chill out after a long day.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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We're neck and neck with the Birds thread, 3466 posts to 3435.
At the top of the previous page Bruce Kay posted :
"I had no idea that sh#t pile would turn into such a success."
Initially I felt insulted, as I thought that he was referring to the climb [YPLS] as a sh#t pile, and was perhaps slagging the route in order to draw attention away from his unethical retro-bolting. On reflection I now realize that he could not be referring to the climb, as it is a clean, obvious, direct and very aesthetic feature. Consequently he must have been referring to his 'sh#t pile' bolt, which now enables people to complete the climb at a lower standard than before, by clipping his POS bolt. Not everyone would deem that to be a success.
To show that YPLS is a clean,direct and aesthetic feature, I am attaching three photos from the FA, which did not involve any POS bolts, or aiding on fixed slings.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Aug 10, 2012 - 02:11am PT
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Monsieur le Docteur Dru
"Belle vacance!"
Ha Ha
A full TR will be required.
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