Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Feb 17, 2014 - 11:52pm PT
|
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
|
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:26am PT
|
Thanx a lot Vic. I'd almost gotten that route out of my head. Nightmares tonight.
|
|
Vic
climber
|
|
Really nice photo Vic! Care to share some more?
Diagonal Will is not exactly a trade route.
This route is indeed nightmarish... a striking feature on an incredible buttress, but it will never be a trade route. Of all the excellent rock climbs in the Black, this is perhaps not one of them.
Most of the prominent crack systems and weaknesses in the Canyon tend to be fairly rotten upon closer inspection. Diagonal Will is no exception. The climb was first rated 5.10+ when Bryan Becker and Ed Webster freed the majority of the original Kor line, Swallow Wall (V 5.7 A4), in 1978. Where Swallow Wall moved left under massive overhangs high on the buttress, Diagonal Will exited on run-out slabs to the right, creating an all free variation, 21 years after Kor and Gross first scaled the formation.
At some point during the '80s, half of the sixth pitch simply feel off the wall. One of the original topos stated, "P6.(5.9+) After some suspect rock enter a wild chimney which leads out the lip of the roof. Continue in the main crack until you can step left to a great belay ledge, the first in a while." With the right half of the chimney system now lying on the banks of the Gunnison River below, there were reports that this rockfall had created a 5.11+ X pitch. It seemed that the handful of people that might have climbed Diagonal Will when it was rated 5.10+ R, were sure as sh#t going to pass on it now.
Although there were definitely a few climbers that tackled Diagonal Will, post-rockfall, the route pretty much sank into obscurity. Although I had always been intrigued by the buttress, I never even considered the possibility of attempting a line with that kind of reputation. When my friend asked if I wanted to climb the route, I was all for it, but I wasn't going to lead any of the business (which is perhaps my MO in the Black Canyon more often than I would like to admit). I am in awe of my friend's tenacity and mental fortitude to push the limits of climbing in an arena like the Black. Having ticked some of the hardest lines that the Canyon has to offer, I knew that if anyone could tackle an X-rated 5.11+ pitch with confidence, it would be him. Still I was quite nervous, truth be told.
The bottom of the route went quickly. We simul-climbed the first 400 feet or so, setting up the belay where the wall began to steepen. We moved through some loose and challenging climbing and a short, but run-out 5.10 pegmatite face, which ended on a pedestal above a hanging garden of vegetation. [see photo above] From here, a handful of loose 5.9 pitches led through a chimney to a stance below the "mystery crux." The scarred wall certainly showed signs of having held many tons of rock, comprising what had once been the right side of the "5.9+ chimney" documented in 1978. Now the stretch of climbing above was nothing more than a shallow, right-facing corner, infested with loose blocks and a layer of sediment that seemed partially responsible for keeping everything that was left intact. Although it looked relatively featured, with the potential for solid gear from here and there, I wanted no part of it!
My buddy made quick work of the crux, moving like a jedi among the hanging rubble, unearthing solid pro occasionally and sewing up whatever weakness might take gear, as he moved towards the left edge of a large roof above. He quickly went out of sight, and I was left with the uneasy feeling that comes from every jerky movement that the leader makes on the rope... as you are left in the darkness below with your worst imaginations of what might happen at any point. 40 meters out, 50 meters, 60, 65... sh#t... I yelled up at the wall, but felt sure he couldn't hear me. I was petrified at the idea that I might have to simul-climb. With a few feet of rope left, there was the welcomed pause of someone constructed a belay. Phew. The rope tightened and I began climbing. At the first piece of pro, I removed a red camalot from behind a tall, narrow block... then peeled it off the wall - freeing it into the abyss below. The mystery pitch was certainly a pile, but we both agreed that it felt more like 5.11 R (for tricky, questionable pro) rather than 5.11+ X.
As I followed the pitch, I saw why my friend had ran the pitch to the end of the rope. Having passed an ideal belay stance at 20-30 meters, there was nothing but a shallow, rotten crack system for over a hundred feet. Having used most of the hand sized pieces down low (and saving the rest for a belay) my friend had run it out in 40-50 foot stretches up the decaying 5.10 choss corner.
We were now below the massive pegmatite band of the upper buttress, where Diagonal Will diverges from the original route on the formation. The simple - and perhaps understated - original topo labeled this section "5.10 face. No pro." After battled through the run-out peg band which guarded easier terrain above, we both felt that this had been the crux of the route - incredibly thin face climbing, well above gear, which seemed closer to 5.11+ than 5.10. It is possible that we did not take the correct path... it seemed feasible to do some various traversing options... (possibly tension traversing, etc...) ??
I would be curious to hear if anyone else found the traverse up high to be the crux of the route? Phil?
Either way, it seemed a fitting end to a wild and terrifying climb. Now on easier terrain, we simuled out to the rim. Hot, tired and mentally wrecked, I stumbled back through the thickets of oak brush leading to the trail. I honestly felt more taxed from belaying up the majority of the route than some of the hardest leads I had had in the Canyon. I was proud of my friend. That route was f*&k'd.
Although I believe that many of the descriptions regarding the general nature of the climbing in the Black Canyon are embellished, to say the least, I would agree that Diagonal Will is a bit of a horror show.
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
If you read Phil's account of the 2nd ascent (with Tom Pulaski)on mp.com, it sounds like he agrees with you about that peg traverse.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
Excellent account Vic. You gave a great feel to the lunacy up there.
The supposed crux pitch in the dihedral is steep and desperate but it fairly pales to moderate compared to the mind f*#k of that desperate and unprotected pegmatite traverse.
It's funny but one of the pitches that sticks in my mind from both ascents is one of the pitches way up high in the exit cracks of the upper dihedral. I remember it so vividly because the crack was lined on both sides with a layer of fine crystals like diamond studded armor. Jamming into those crystals on a route at a local crag would have probably been uncomfortable enough to avoid that climb. But up there on the precipitous walls, so close to the rim, after so many desperate struggles getting there, it felt so GOOOOOD and secure to jam those razor sharp crystals into the ragged flesh of my sweaty hands. The second time up I was just motoring for the rim like a banchee when without looking I slipped my hand into the very jam I had a few years earlier. I recognized it by feel first. Immediately I looked at my hand in the crack and new for a certainty that in an odd way I was home.
|
|
Crag Q
Trad climber
Louisville, Colorado
|
|
Vic, awesome accounting of your adventure. Thanks for sharing!
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
Thanks Vic! Really nice story telling and writing. I've scoped this wall from the South Rim and it is a beautiful, massive vertical sweep. Hopefully I'll get on it before it is too late.
|
|
duck on a bike
climber
|
|
Sure, if I may, I'll try to be brief,
-My 1st time to the black my partner (not first time to the black but first time climbing with me)didn't want to get too committed thought it a good idea to do Astro Dog from the North Rim via Cruise Gully. Looking back I sorta get it. We descended armed with two quarts of water a P.B. and J and I managed to stuff a glazed doughnut in my pocket (unwrapped). Made it a pitch above 2 boulder, out of water food and just about light. Back across the river and partway up the cruise I was about to pass out due to low blood sugar levels/ dehydration I turned to my glazed doughnut but couldn't eat it with no water. We found a cave dripping water one drop at a time near the last cruise rappel(?)and I used my parka to collect about three mouthfuls of water. We split the smashed doughnut pieces, lint included and swallowed the cement. We popped out of the cruise gulley 26 hrs later. I guess that was a less committing way.
And so began a decade+ so far of as Jeff Achey puts it great "successes". And of course success :-).
D...
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
Anyone have any Highway 66/Dylan wall stories? The lower "face" pitches left of Journey Home are beautiful.
|
|
o-man
Social climber
Paia,Maui,HI
|
|
Serious Respect from this end, Vic and Philo!
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
Thanks O-Man.
Kalimon I agree that the Diagonal Will is one of the single most stunning lines in the Black, absolutely beautiful. And I would also say that other than the "Yer Gunna Die" factor present in most pitches, the climbing is damn cool if the rock stays in place. But you seem to have missed the point that you'd have to be plum crazy to go up that route.
The supposed crux dihedral pitch where rock fell from has always been a nightmare. I would easily and unabashedly call it 5.11 r/x for both times I survived it. As I've described it was a very unstable patch of unprotected overhanging geologic sputum somehow stuck to the wall.
I was over that way last year and scoped the wall. The dirty snow ball is gone now but I can't help thinking that is a good thing and that the base rock should offer some better opportunities for protection. That being said The upper traverse pitches are really the ones that will seize your sphincter tight enough to cut washers from. And the belay among the teetering loose killer blocks on the edge of the arete was enough to loose the bowels of hell on you. Very conflicting gastrointestinal adventure.
|
|
Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
Thanks Philo! Really nice photo of the spectacular line up of massive buttresses. I've lots of other unfinished business in the Black . . . your advice is appreciated. Have you any stories of Earl and Katy's efforts to the right of DW?
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
Kalimon I'm not aware of Katy and Earl doing much to the right of the Diagonal Will Route. That is a huge intimidating expanse of unknown out there. They did do some serious routes to the right of the Hooker Buttress route. Dry Hard IV 5.10+ FA Katie Cassidy And Earl Wiggins 9/84 and Cheap Shot V 5.10+ X Katie Cassidy and Earl Wiggins 9/84 are two big routes with serious reputations. Earl (RIP) used to climb with a 300 ft 9ml rope and run it to the hilt. Those two were inspired and driven to extremes.
The two routes mentioned above are not for everyone nor likely to ever attain trad route status.
|
|
Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
|
hitting the black in 2 weeks for the first time. psyched, spooked, stoked, and psyched again!
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
|
Highway 61 to the JH is not that big a deal-sorry to disappoint! I can't speak for the Dylan Wall.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2014 - 09:51pm PT
|
I did Highway 66 with Jay Smith 2 or 3 years ago. Great climb, clean and engaging....harder than the Scenic Cruise. The Second Ear is rated 10+ but you'll be less surprised if you expect 11-, which it is.
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 - 09:04am PT
|
That Second Ear definitely stumped me. I remember wishing for a couple of things to be...different from how they were. Oh well. The first ear: dead obvious. And you get to skip the first pitch of the Journey Home, which is not such a bad deal. I'd like to do it again and, um, clean up the performance a bit.
So philo, if the Diagonal Will is such a horror show, why'd you do it twice? You must have a serious choss addiction.
Anyone know anything about a recent rescue on something called 'Hotlanta'?
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 - 10:21am PT
|
http://watchnewspapers.com/new-injured-climber-successfully-rescued-from-black-canyon/
FR: Black Canyon of the Gunnsion National Park Press Release
MONTROSE — The combined efforts of search and rescue teams from Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Ouray Mountain Rescue, West Elk Mountain Rescue, and Western State Mountain Rescue, resulted in a successful evacuation of an injured climber on Sunday, April 13.
Rangers at Black Canyon received a report of an injured climber Saturday evening. Climbing rangers, including a park paramedic, located the patient late that evening and bivouacked overnight while providing medical assistance for multiple injuries. The climber was injured when he pulled a large boulder off the wall while leading a pitch on a route called “Hotlanta”, on the Atlantis buttress.
Additional technical rescue teams arrived on Sunday to raise the patient 1,800 feet to the canyon’s North Rim. Intermittent white out conditions, with heavy, wet snow and gusty winds challenged the rescuers during this high angle rescue.
Superintendent Connie Rudd said, “I am very proud of our search and rescue team and of the outstanding cooperative effort involved with our local partners. They have proven once again that visitor and employee safety is of ultimate importance. They carried out this nearly 24 hour long rescue with the utmost of professionalism.”
The climber, who is from Durango, Colorado, is described as stable with ankle, chest, and facial injuries.
So philo, if the Diagonal Will is such a horror show, why'd you do it twice? You must have a serious choss addiction.
That's a good question I have asked myself several times.
You do know that Broscovak is a Polish name right?
That could explain a lot.
The Poles are known for their stoic ability to endure hardship and suffering.
Maybe I just couldn't find a suitably miserable bread line.
Actually there was a time last century when I was a "real" climber, strong, driven and ambitious. I was recovering from my first knee rebuild and developing a strong climbing relationship with a new partner. For a while we were unstopable and we had big plans for serious adventure. Diagonal Will was simply a test of our teamwork and abilities.
Unfortunately a slew of subsequent surgeries scuttled those plans and my dreams of grand adventure. Oh well. Now I am just a brokendown has been wanted to be dirtbag. Same as it ever was. LOL.
|
|
philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
|
So Rhodo-Router are you thinking of going up the DW?
|
|
eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
|
|
|
Apr 29, 2014 - 06:41pm PT
|
Some good stuff here. Great story Vic.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!