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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 26, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
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Read the thread The Chief...
edit: you have? Weird...why did I have to post the topos again?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 26, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
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Chief wrote: So, what is roughly the time frame that these 100 or so rap-bolted bolts were hand drilled in?
If you want to be the hanging judge maybe do the footwork yourself.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 26, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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Geez chief, give it a rest already. They've posted topos and answered your leg humper questions.
You keep going on about how they profit from this... aren't you a guide? Aren't you out using public resources to profit? How much does it cost the taxpayers to haul a body out?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Apr 26, 2010 - 02:55pm PT
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Geez chief, give it a rest already.
I second that.
But would add a request that you use the name "The Chief" when referring to the guy who is ranting on this thread, not just "Chief." There is another poster who goes by the name Chief (without the "The") and he is a decent man who can express disagreement without coming across as an obnoxious tyrant.
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 26, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Chief wrote: The avg hand drilled 2 3/4 X 3/8th 5pc req hole in the typical Sierra Pink and Gold Granite takes an avg of 30-40 minutes per hole.
So what is your point?
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Bob D'A
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Apr 26, 2010 - 03:03pm PT
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The Chief wrote: I don't get to choose the clients I am given. I gladly work with people that I am assigned by the Service that employs me.
Profit, as a Guide?
You still didn't anwser his question...do you use public lands to make money or is all your guiding for free?
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 26, 2010 - 03:05pm PT
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Check the list of strong guys who worked on GU. Often several of us at once. Sure glad I didn't have to drill all that by myself.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Apr 26, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 26, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
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I won't speak for the Mini-Snake Dike pitch, Coz, even though it's the one pitch on the upper wall I would like most to lead myself. It's one of the few I probably could. I just rapped on by and worked on drilling lower pitches. It was a team effort.
I will say again that I saw acres of real estate where it would be impossible to stance drill and impossible to find a hook placement.
I'm sure you would agree from your experience over on SB.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 26, 2010 - 03:15pm PT
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how much did the body removal cost the taxpayers, The Chief? Did the removal utilize any mechanization in the backcountry?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Apr 26, 2010 - 03:44pm PT
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Your high horse bullshit is uh, bullsh#t.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 26, 2010 - 04:56pm PT
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when hanging on a rap line i can usually hand drill a 2.25" x3/8th" hole in granit @ 20 min. usualy takes me 30 to 40+ min from a stance or sketchy hook.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 26, 2010 - 04:58pm PT
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BTW the Chief, Professional guideing is a much greater burden on public lands than any back country rout that rarely gets climbed.
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dustonian
climber
RRG
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Apr 26, 2010 - 05:01pm PT
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Aside from the Chief's OCD, I still find the bolt ladder installed on rappel to be the strangest thing about this whole melodrama. A first in Yosemite? Anywhere for that matter??
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Nate Ricklin
climber
San Diego
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Apr 26, 2010 - 05:17pm PT
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"His latest Mescalito Free Project without adding/changing/altering any bolts or original pro placements and totally adapting to what was in place, an example I can accept and many here should follow."
... says the guy who likes to install bolted rap routes in the backcountry.
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Llewelyn Moss
Big Wall climber
Ken Kesey's place at La Honda
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Apr 26, 2010 - 05:51pm PT
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the ideological waters are a bit off color today...
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 26, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
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The ONLY thing in contention here is should the FA team have done the route ground up aiding up the bolt ladder and doing the upper pitches from stances/hooks creating another R/X rated route that almost no one would ever do, OR should they have done that but returned later and retro-bolted their own route so other people could enjoy the route with reasonable protection OR should they have done it like they did?
The only thing that really matters is that some potential party lost the capability to do the route ground up, wether it be Sean's party or another party. Should the FA party have the freedom to establish how they want? Or should they be constrained by other people's "rules"?
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 26, 2010 - 06:12pm PT
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The Chief, it's interesting you are so opposed to route closures to help non-enangered wildlife, but so forceful about keeping people of routes to protect them for people who may be able to do the FA in a better style.
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dustonian
climber
RRG
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Apr 26, 2010 - 08:46pm PT
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You may be right in a theoretical sense Cos, but the idea of removing a 100+ bolts up there & patching the holes seems like a ludicrous and fanatical act. It would create a complete shitshow and end up making more of a mess than there is now. Besides, that kind of extremism just begets more extremism... no one is going to "learn" anything from that kind of example except anger. Just go up there and put up a new route, or a new finish at least, in better style and call it good at that. No reason to be a dick about it by pulling out the bolts. Sounds like a real pain in the ass anyway!!
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