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micronut
Trad climber
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May 22, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Marc,
Thank you for posting that shot. I am truly and deeply sorry for all/any of you who knew Mason personally. My deepest condolences. I life that shone brightly for sure. I did not know him, nor have I followed the accident much as I am heading up El Cap for the first time in two weeks. But guys like him who have gone before and carried a lifetime of stoke up the wall have paved the way for rookies like me who will follow. Take care.
Scott
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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May 22, 2013 - 05:48pm PT
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If the rope (any rope) managed to have significant tension or if the tension was created at the moment a sharp edge contacted it then all bets are off.
Two unlikely events had to converge for this tragedy to occur the way it did. First a flake that had help pro on previous occasions had to dislodge.. then even more unlikely it had to sever the lead line.
Randomness can get you no matter how prepared or experienced.
Regarding the Stratos rope question. Certainly they give an extra margin of safety but are not indestructible. I lost a friend, Steve Garvey many years ago who was using a brand new 10.5 Stratos that cut like butter over a very sharp rock.
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benzo
Big Wall climber
tacoma wa.
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May 22, 2013 - 05:56pm PT
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My helmets off to you Marc. Strong work, Strong heart.
Thoughts are with the Robinson family.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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May 22, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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I wonder if it's possible to build a device like a screamer that could absorb enough shock at the harness to be able to build a more cable-like rope. It would have to be more like the size of a Silent Partner. It could be a device that absorbs energy as the near tail of the rope, or rope-like cable, passed through it during a fall. Maybe it could be hydrolic. Wasn't there somebody in a thread here at ST not long ago talking about his patent for such a device and nobody could nail him down about it? I don't know, if you remove all the danger what do you have - nothing left to transcend.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 22, 2013 - 05:59pm PT
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Let Mason's legacy in part be the stimulus in the dialogue concerning safety, be it single vs double rope technique, brand performance, or the potential pros and cons of a community loose rock cleaning program, etc.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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May 22, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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^+1
Plaid
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Jack Beard
Mountain climber
Kalispell, MT
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May 22, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Climbing is the King of sports and Mason was a prince. We will feel his presence at Stone Hill , like we have felt Mark's all these years.
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J man
Trad climber
morgan hill
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May 22, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
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And every time I hear the rolling thunder
I turn and run before the lightning strikes
And if I can find a rock to crawl right under
I'll never let the good times pass me by.
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covelocos
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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May 22, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
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be it single vs double rope technique
Is double rope used (much) for aid climbing? I learned from a Swiss climber in JTree. He free climbed everything w/doubles. I've loved mine ever since.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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May 22, 2013 - 10:53pm PT
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He looked very happy on the ascent to the heavens.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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May 22, 2013 - 11:09pm PT
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Thanks for posting Marc.
I try to buy new edge-safe rated 11m ropes every year, or every other year. That's about every 5-6 walls on my schedule. They are spendy, especially full retail. But the piece of mind they offer feels worth it. Perhaps even the nicest rope isn't going to survive a sharp falling flake. .
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D.Eubanks
climber
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May 22, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
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Thanks Marc for sharing. Sorry for the loss of your friend.
take care Marc,
Dana
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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May 22, 2013 - 11:15pm PT
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I have to admit I'm curious about the lead rope also. At least the age and diameter.
Seems like there should be a little more investigative impulse regarding the rope.
Maybe if a haul line is dynamic, it could be clipped into the protection also during a dicey section, and then pulled through after it was past. Sure, it may be too much rope overall when combined with the lead rope to give a dynamic catch, but considering the alternative it would feel safer.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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May 22, 2013 - 11:32pm PT
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Marc, and to Mason's family...
I've been following this thread and trying to think of something to say. words seem not enough and so I've been struggling.
I do not know any of you, but am so sad for you and for our community.
I only hope in the days to come you are surrounded by the love you so obviously have both here and at home and find some happiness in the joy Mason was filled with.
Being able to persue ones dreams is the gift we all have, but those with real courage are the ones that follow that dream.
with sincere regards and healing energy,
DD
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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May 22, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
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Could not say it better -- than Delhi Dog.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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May 22, 2013 - 11:49pm PT
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Well spoken Delhi Dog, difficult to express the sorrow and sadness but your words conveyed a warm and genial sympathy shared by many here.
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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May 23, 2013 - 03:39am PT
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Last July I buried one of my best friends at sea, 100 miles north of Oahu. Andrew had always dreamt of sailing to Hawaii...his body just didn't give him the chance. When I saw that photo of Mason, high on the Muir, it brought to mind my friend...both beautiful sons, brothers, and friends...living large. The people in our lives are such precious gifts. Take care of one another.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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May 23, 2013 - 03:57am PT
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Dehli Dog, you spoke very eloquently for the climbing community. Thanks for the post.
Mason's family and Marc, his sentiments are true of many of us.
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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May 23, 2013 - 06:27am PT
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Mason sounds like a wonderful guy and a great human being,
I'm sorry for every one's loss. Sometimes the light that burns the most brightly is extinguished before we are ready.
Here is to a life well lived!!!!!!
Mason, may you climb a million walls in the next realm.
Peace, love and God speed!
-Ezra Ellis
Marc, thanks for the wonderful pic!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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May 23, 2013 - 09:09am PT
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McHale's Navy's idea is definitely worth considering. Put a couple of screamers on your harness and use a kevlar rope, or what they use to stabilize aerial antennas (I forget the name), there are many materials better than nylon. The main property of the rope should be resistance to cutting over a sharp edge. Another good property is UV resistance, but I think this is more important for anchor slings. The weight is not that big an issue considering the amount of metal you have to carry on an aid route.
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