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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jun 27, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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Six years of a man's life... Gone!
And you think you've got it bad!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2012 - 12:09am PT
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dru what r you on about? ;)
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2012 - 12:41am PT
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Dru may be self-referential - that is to say, Doctor Brayshaw, I presume? If so, congratulations!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 27, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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then i'd likely be quoting james not david
As in "I thought I told you to shut up?"
But he's hardly said anything lately.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jun 27, 2012 - 01:33am PT
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I'm lost. I have no clue what you guys are yammering about... V2? Doctor Who? Me so confused.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2012 - 02:17am PT
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Hi Silver,
Nice to hear from you, been awhile, as far as I can tell from the local guides there isn't. Unless it's new or unknown. Maybe you are thinking of Eurasian Eyes? The stunning 5.13b arete in the Bulletheads? Another amazing Jim Sandford effort. 1989.
You in the falcon business or something?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 27, 2012 - 03:28am PT
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If the answer is "Doctor Brayshaw I Presume", what was the question?
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jun 27, 2012 - 10:36am PT
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"Amazing effort" should perhaps be saved for ascents such as Peter C's onsite first free lead of the Shadow on U Wall. Not to belittle J.S.'s new routing at all, as he brought a very modern and interesting style into squampton climbing.
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MH2
climber
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Jun 27, 2012 - 11:37am PT
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Yes. I'm only a little chicken squawking in the barnyard, but Eurasian Eyes isn't quite the amazing route which Kevin McLane's amazing photo on the cover of his '92 guide suggests. However, I can only squawk about the original 13a line, not the direct 13b from 2011 by Trevor Wood and Luc Neufeld. Marc Bourdon's new Select calls the 13b more aesthetic.
But I'd rather not try to compare Peter and Jim. Both amazing enough to me.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2012 - 11:54am PT
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Sorry, anything 13 and up is pretty amazing to this 5.11 climber. The shot of Honnold on Eurasian Eyes in the new Squamish Select is pretty amazing too.
I wouldn't bother compairing apples to oranges though, I think that Peter's efforts on The Shadow would be much better described as inspirational or extraordinary not to mention revolutionary.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jun 27, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Sounds like you may need to make a trip up here to investigate Silver!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
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Hey Silver,
Here is the pic again in hopes it inspires you to come new routing!!
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jun 27, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
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Does the prow in question look more like a ship, or a shark?
Some impressive boulders on this end of Dance. Could be fun with a car jack. Make that a house jack.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 27, 2012 - 06:28pm PT
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Wait a sec, big mike, you're a 5.11 climber now, sick dude congrats. Wanna rope me up freeway?
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 27, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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MH2 casually throws out there his thoughts on 5.13 climbing...probably in two pairs of wool socks
Tell us some stories MH2...can you tell us where and when you climbed your first 5.12?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jun 27, 2012 - 07:32pm PT
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Can someone please notify pc that we're patiently waiting for the details of the twall free variation..
edit;Oh, and hoser; mh2s first 12 (at squamish atleast) was the daily planet... Duh
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Hoser
climber
vancouver
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Jun 27, 2012 - 07:40pm PT
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Pretty sure MH2 is not from around here....his first 5.12 may be one of the first 5.12's?
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MH2
climber
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Jun 27, 2012 - 07:47pm PT
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Wow, the kid is quite the historian!
It's never been my goal to climb hard. I "got on" Eurasian Eyes because of Catalin, who was a 5.13 climber, and went from there to Yos big walls, American Direct in the alps, and Cerro Torre the easy way (smiley face).
Fortunately my 5.12 route at Squamish did not make it into the new Bourdon. I believe he would not have given me credit for my top-rope FA. If Kevin comes out with a new comprehensive guide, I hope to get into the fine print, there. George of Climb On and Joe of Turley and some guy from California bolted, led, and named Ancient Teenagers.
edit
My first 5.12 could have been some F rated climb at Devil's Lake.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2012 - 02:29am PT
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Hamie- Looks more like the bow of a ship to me.
Luke I said 5.11 climber not 5.12 leader ;p
Andy- Tell us a tale of The Daily Planet!
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